
01/15/08, 11:36 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC
Posts: 622
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When a chain cuts crooked, either the bar is worn, like already mentioned, or the teeth and the rakers aren't the same on both sides of the chain.
In order for a chain to cut straight, the depth of "bite" that the teeth get must be roughly the same on both sides of the chain.
There are plenty of ways for that to get out of whack.
The best trick I have learned to diagnose what's going on with a chain is to set the saw down and sight down the top of the bar with my eye at the tip of the bar looking straight at the cutting edges of the teeth. With my eye there, I can see what the wood sees... sharp teeth and rakers coming straight at me. From there I can see how much of a "bite" each tooth can take (based on the difference between it's cutting surface and the top of its raker). The height of the raker in front of each tooth determines the depth to which that tooth will be able to cut. The difference between the top of a raker and the cutting surface of a tooth on the saws with strong engines can be, i dunno, 1/8 inch. For smaller engines, it's more like 1/16 inch.
From there, it's easy to know what needs to be done to fix the problem. Compare the depth of bite for the teeth on e one side to the teeth of the other side. For me, I usually see that I was sloppy when I filed down the rakers and one side has a deeper bite than the other. I fix it by filing down the rakers on the other side until they're roughly even If they got filed unevenly, well, then file them evenly.
One of the most common ways that causes a chain to cut crooked happens after hitting a rock and needing to sharpen the teeth way back to get a good edge, but only needing to do it on one side. The cutting surface of each tooth gets lower each time the chain is sharpened. (Sight down the blade to see what I mean.) In that case, the rakers on that side would need to be filed down a bit.
Basically what I'm saying is that in order for a chain to cut straight, the depth of the bite must be roughly the same for the teeth on both sides and to do whatever it takes to make that the case. There, I said it.
Final word of caution...the deeper the bite the teeth can take, the faster the saw will cut...BUT, if the engine isn't strong enough to handle bites that are so deep, it will react either by "chattering" (the teeth will jump off the wood) or by the teeth constantly getting stuck and stopping the chain. Either condition is dangerous because trying to cut with a chain like that is difficult and annoying. If that happens, the only way to fix it is to file the teeth way back to lower their cutting surfaces. If the rakers are filed too far down, sometimes, the chain can't be repaired....so be conservative when filing rakers..
To get an idea of the proper depth of a bite is for your saw, sight down a new chain so you know the standard depth. If you have a saw with a strong engine and want a bit more performance and if you wanna push it to see if you can speed up the rate at which it cuts, file down the rakers a tiny bit over the standard and see if the saw can handle it.
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