Splitting a tractor

[cseger1]

Forgive me for not posting this in the shop, but that forum doesn't get as much traffic. My question is this, I have to split my Kubota B7300 to replace a seal and the brush hog is on it. I am thinking that the brush hog will be a good counter balance for helping line up the two halves for reassembly. Any thoughts on whether this is a good idea or not? Thanks.

Christian

[michiganfarmer]

I have split 3 tractors. I think you have a good idea if you can chain the 3 point up otherwise it will just leak down to the ground, and you wont realise any counter ballance.

I wouldnt do it because I dont want any more stuff in the way than I absolutely have to have, but I do think its worth you trying it.

[ksfarmer]

I agree with michiganfarmer, I don't want anything else in the way when splitting. And unless you rig up a chain somehow, you won't gain anything. I've never worked on a Kubota, but my old massey ferguson needs a lot of floor jack, hoist, and blocks of wood. Also the bush hog might cause trouble for you to roll the rear away from the front half.

[cseger1]

My plan is to roll the rear away. The hog is sitting at ground level now with the caster wheel down. The 3ph is chained at this level.

[scorpian5]

you can make your own stands that attach to both halves of the tractor and its alot safer

[cseger1]

I am going to jack up the front and suspend the engine from a lift. The back will roll out. Unless someone posts a really bad scenario for keeping the mower on, I am going to do it. Thanks for the help.

[Jeslik]

That sounds like such a serious operation that I'd seek the advice of these folks.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/

I wish you luck.

[Ford8N]

I have never worked on a Kubota but I did split my 8N a couple years back to change the flywheel ring gear, clutch and tranny seal.

Here's the Cliff's Notes version of how I did it:
I secured the front of the tractor on blocks and jack stands. I used a large floor jack on rollers to support the rear half of tractor. I unbolted everything and slid rear half of tractor on the roller jack backwards.

To get everything back together I found out that I could get much more leverage with my legs than by pushing with my arms and body, so I would take that bush hog off if I were you. I moved the two halves close together and eyeballed and adjusted everything till I thought both ends were lined up. Then I got out my tape measure and measured the gap between the front and back halves at four equal places around the housing and tweaked my jack. Once I knew I was straight, I got on my back behind the tractor and pushed up and forward on the tires with my feet. I found that by doing this I got a lot of power without stressing my back. Now keep in mind that you can't try this technique on a big tractor, but it worked great on an 8N. The tranny input shaft didn't want to go into the clutch splines so I got the wife to slowly turn the flywheel with a screwdriver through the starter hole while I gently rocked it into place. It worked great!!

[cseger1]

My little Kubota is 3/4 the size of an 8N. I don't have concrete out here or that is the exact method I would employ. Its sitting on level grass. I may still try your method and roll the jack on a board.

[agmantoo]

After you split the tractor get 2 bolts, the same as the ones that hold the tranny to the back of the engine, but get them longer. Cut the heads off both bolts and install them approximately at 9 and 3 o'clock. These will be guide pins for the reassembly. Just make certain you have space to remove these "guide pins" after the tractor is mated together. These guide pins will greatly simplify getting the two halves of the tractor back together

[Ford8N]

Originally Posted by cseger1

My little Kubota is 3/4 the size of an 8N. I don't have concrete out here or that is the exact method I would employ. Its sitting on level grass. I may still try your method and roll the jack on a board.

I did it in my shed with a gravel floor. I used a piece of plywood to roll on.

You might want to use a light ratchet strap to hold the tractor together once you get it close and before you get all the bolts in. That way it cant roll back apart while you are fumbling with all the bolts. You don't want to have to start over.

[Ford8N]

Originally Posted by agmantoo

After you split the tractor get 2 bolts, the same as the ones that hold the tranny to the back of the engine, but get them longer. Cut the heads off both bolts and install them approximately at 9 and 3 o'clock. These will be guide pins for the reassembly. Just make certain you have space to remove these "guide pins" after the tractor is mated together. These guide pins will greatly simplify getting the two halves of the tractor back together

Wow! That is a great trick, too!!!

[rambler]

I'd think it would just be in the way, and with the 3pt linkage leaking down & all, would be more bad than good to leave the implement on.

jmho

--->Paul

[farminghandyman]

Use a proper splitting stand, if you care about your safety or the tractors.

[fordson major]

plan on rolling the front! back will be much heavier. we use stout house jacks too hold the rear end and an over head gantry too move the engine. do not go under the tractor unless the wheels are blocked the loose end secured. which ever you plan on rolling , block the front axle where the engine cradle meets the axle so the engine cannot tip. i would use very stout planks under the front wheels and block both front and rear wheels so they can not move. also remove the front end loader or any counter balance weights. you may have to move the engine up and down wiggling the front tires forward to split the tractor. while in there check out any other wear parts, bites to split a tractor again cause the clutch bearing was just about done! i have helped the local tractor doctor fix tractors for many years and makes, never have we ever moved the rear, always the engine- front Axel forward!!

[cseger1]

I have started separating the two halves and hit my first glitch. The drag link from the steering wheel won't come loose. I am removing the link from the front of the tractor where it meets the steering knuckle. I have the nut off, and the bolt will not pull free from the bracket. Any advice?

[Ford8N]

Originally Posted by cseger1

I have started separating the two halves and hit my first glitch. The drag link from the steering wheel won't come loose. I am removing the link from the front of the tractor where it meets the steering knuckle. I have the nut off, and the bolt will not pull free from the bracket. Any advice?

You need what they call a "pickle fork". It is basically a wedge that you insert in front-end parts on cars. You whack it with a heavy hammer and it should break apart. I have used 2 and 3 arm pullers on some front end parts too.

[ace admirer]

a proper rig is required to keep from killing yourself. most people use a heavy trailer jack with caster wheel and mount it to a plate drilled to bolt to the rear of the front end of the tractor. the rear end is usually help stationary.

[cseger1]

I know the tool. Thanks.

[agmantoo]

cseger1
Put the nut back onto the tapered shaft to where the nut is flush with the threads that normally protrude. This should leave some clearance between the nut and the bottom of the tapered hole. Take a small hydraulic jack and place it on the nut and put some pressure upward, it does not take a lot of pressure and definitely do not bend anything. With the pressure being exerted use a large hammer and rap the outside of the donut shaped portion that has the tapered shaft inside. The tapered shaft should dislodge with ease. It should actually jump out as far as the nut will permit it to travel.