Repacking media tank in softener system

wyld thang · #1 09/07/07, 04:26 PM

WE are futzing with our water softener system, it's 10 years old, tons of iron bacteria. Anyway, we're trying to flush stuff(i'ts not been working properly). The water people say the iron sediment tank(the tank filled with gravel and "birn", not sure if that's the right term) and the water softener tank filled with "media" needs to be emptied and refilled. We've emptied them and cleaned them out. Now for the refillling, the cost of the media and gravel is about 600$(the most expensive gravel in the world?!), and labor is about $300 to fill them. Can we fill this successfully ourselves(the water people say "no"). I imagine packing the tank involves carefulk tamping(?) that's why it takes so long to do it? How do you do it?

Another question is can we attach the empty clean tanks back up(since it is Friday and the water places are closed over the weekend so we'll have to wait to get the stuff), and run water through the system so we can have water in the house--we wouldn't use it much(no laundry, no showers, etc). We do have water from the hose straight from the well. Supposedly there are valves to bypass the water softener system, but we only seem to be able to shut them off completely, with no bypass action. I'm thinking since we are supposed to be able to bypass the system, then it wouldn't harm anything downwind to run the water through empty tanks?

Thanks!!

Micahn · #2 09/08/07, 01:10 AM

First yes hook it back up and use the water. It will be hard for ok and will not harm anything.
On the whole deal sounds like to me your being ripped off big time. You would buy a new one for them prices and install it yourself. I would be willing to say that you could buy a new one and install it yourself and save at least 300 or 400 on the deal.
Oh and so you know I was a plumber for over 20 years and I have never heard of a softener having to have it's resin replaced. Now I have heard of them needing some different stuff added in depending on the water. But even then it was a cheap deal compared to what you said above.

Micahn · #3 09/08/07, 01:13 AM

Oh just done a fast search and look here.
http://www.discountwatersofteners.co...lts.asp?Cat=23
unless your wanting one of the new salt free systems you would be better off buying a new one instead of paying what you said. Even a salt free system is not that much more then what they are wanting to charge you.

wyld thang · #4 09/08/07, 01:23 PM

Hey, thanks a bunch!! My hub really appreciates your input. The stuff we dumped out of the tanks was full of that nasty rust sludge(we have super high rust and bacteria, not neccessarily hard water, and we didn't put this system in). He cracked the control box for the water softener and a mouse had stuffed it full of insulation, so now he's seeing if it will work(without the insulation gumming up the works), and if it's shot he'll buy a new box. The gravel etc is a lot cheaper online, and we're hoping to find a local place to buy it to save shipping.

Yeah, my hub has a great nose for knowing when the price is too high(that's why he made me ask here ;0) Thanks again!!

PS I tell him at least he's learning about wells and the water works, most people don't go that far.

wyld thang · #5 09/10/07, 01:51 PM

In the interest of helping anyone who has a water softener system...my hub has been doing a lot of legwork online finding parts etc. Then he calls the water/well guys and asks them for price quotes. So it appears that water system parts can be as shady as buying car parts from the dealer...for instance

he found some resin stuff (I guess there are three different things you need to pack the carious tanks)--the listed amount needed for our tank is .75 cubic foot, to be had for 20$, we were quoted 3 cubic feet for at least 300$.

He also found he needs to replace something called a fleck valve--quoted price 600$, online price 150$.

So buyer beware! I'm sure not all companies are like this, but be sure to check out prices first, and see if you can find a guy who will install your parts if you can't.

Kinda like when we replaced the rear end in the burb, we were quoted 2300$, but found a rear end in a junkyard and a guy who would install it(we went and got it), spent 1000$.

jross · #6 09/10/07, 02:38 PM

If you have inlet and outlet plug type valves in one housing, the softener should be bypassed automatically when they are closed. Resins rarely go bad unless they are washed repeatedly with acid and caustic, not salt. If you still have the resins, why not pour them in a tub and soak them with Ironout, then slowly flushing the tub until the resin comes clean? Putting wet resin back into the tank is a pain because they stick to everything, but it can be done if a little water is used, letting the excess overflow sloooowly. I use one bag of iron remover salt with three bags regular salt in the brine tank because we have high iron also. This was recommended to me by the Morton salt company. Or you could periodically treat the unit with Ironout using the directions on the container, one cup per regeneration, once a month.