pond algae

[nature shot]

Any ideas on ways to control algae in new pond. It is a small spring fed pond about 20x15 about 4 feet deep I estimate about 10000 gals volume.I'm thinking about barley straw bales any other thoughts. Eventually we will have some fish and plants there.

Thanks
Ed

[james dilley]

Thry thinking about Bait fish that eat the stuff. Try asking the local fish farms what they use.

[JennNY]

I heard barley is GREAT for a pond.. and lime also.

I am going to treat my pond with both.

Jenn

[Fire-Man]

Originally Posted by nature shot

Any ideas on ways to control algae in new pond. It is a small spring fed pond about 20x15 about 4 feet deep I estimate about 10000 gals volume.I'm thinking about barley straw bales any other thoughts. Eventually we will have some fish and plants there.

Thanks
Ed

Copper Sulfate and/or grass carp work good for my still water pond for floating algae. Randy

[emiliozapata]

how about ducks

[nature shot]

Randy
I did a google search on copper sulfate and there is some negative effects reported on the use have you noticed any in your pond, how long have you used copper sulfate?

[Fire-Man]

Originally Posted by nature shot

Randy
I did a google search on copper sulfate and there is some negative effects reported on the use have you noticed any in your pond, how long have you used copper sulfate?

Several years but I don't over do it---Go by the directions----------What were the Negative effects? Randy

[Fire-Man]

Originally Posted by emiliozapata

how about ducks

I tried 12 ducks----They did help some, but they tore my banks up over time---caused alot of damage---under cutting the banks then the banks cave in. No More than one or two ducks for me. Randy

[fishhead]

If my ponds are clear I control filamentous algae (scum) with slices of straw around the shoreline and spot treatments of copper. Put the straw in as soon as possible.

My ponds are production ponds so I don't normally want them to be clear so if you don't mind green ponds you can add suckers to keep the nutrient cycle in high gear and to stir up sediments.

There is a safe and expensive herbicide called Sonar or Avast that kills all plants. It also killed the grass along the shoreline of my pond from the waterline to about 1 1/2' above.

Copper is an element and doesn't leave the pond so once you put it in it's in and if enough accumulates over time it can interfer with the invertebrates in the bottom.

If your pond has an outlet whatever (including your fish) you put in will leave the pond and you will need to add more.

I tried a few (19) African geese last season and they did a great job of clearing some emergent vegetation but then started to clear the grass off the slope of the dikes eating the roots and all. Now I'm getting slumping along the waterline. This year I'm trying an even fewer number of Embden geese and muscovy ducks to see how much damage they do to the dikes.

[MELOC]

how about shading? i think i read that algae likes sunlight. is this true? could you increase the shade over time?

[nature shot]

I went to www.ilo.org it is OSHA and did a search for copper sulfate they say to keep it out of the environment it can have bad effects on humans


I also did a search for copper sulfate and pond solutions says that it has short term effectiveness that can lead to over use

it's not biodegradable and can create a sterile bottom
it's toxic to fish

They are trying to sell their products at this site so I would take that into consideration here thought.

[fishhead]

If you have water, nutrients and sunlight you are going to have weeds, guaranteed.

The question is which weeds. Planting large plants that you choose will tip the balance in favor of clean water by stealing the nutrients from the algae types. I would select the type you want and get them planted as soon as the pond is done.

[Bernadette]

Shading. Get some water plants going, like water lilies with big leaves, or whatever else you have available in your area. Algae needs sunlight to grow, and 2/3 to 3/4 of your surface should be covered with plants. Fish help, and so do ducks, but the trick is to get everything in balance. Too much of any one good thing is no longer a good thing. Barley straw is good to help stabilize the pond, but is reactive rather than preventative. (It's a bandaid, not a cure). Chemical use is the same idea.

Test the pH of your water. If it's too acidic, you need to add the lime, if it's too basic, then the sulphur. Every pond is unique, and what works in one might be seriously the wrong thing for the next pond.

[Maura]

We found with our small pond that once the water lillies came up, the algae pretty much went away. Plant your water lillies in the shallowest part so the leaves come up quickly, then plant some deeper. Most can be under three feet of water and still grow. If your pond won't support lilies, put them in large plastic pots. If you are in the south, you can also grow lotus. Water hyacinth will also shade the pond and draw up nutrients, but winter will kill it.