Pruning apple trees

[Ford8N]

I own three apple trees on my property and I decided to start pruning them yesterday. I have owned them four years and have not done anything to them. It doesn't look like the previous owner did either. Well my neighbor saw me and told me I was a little late and should have done it January or February. I finished one tree and would like to tackle the other two this weekend but now she has me worried. The tree is not budding yet and does not seem to be sappy. Can I prune the two others or should I wait for next winter??? I am in zone 4.

[Steve L.]

Don't worry about it. I've pruned apples in every month of the year (zone 5).

[seedspreader]

Ford8N,

If you were pruning a complete orchard, Jan and Feb are the ideal months, but you are okay pruning now.

The more important thing is refurbing those old trees. They should be cut a third at a time if making major cuts on them, for three years to get them back into top shape.

[farmergirl]

Gotta love those "helpful" neighbors! LOL! I love my neighbors, but sometimes they can be a bit "too" helpful. I would say that you're probably ok to keep pruning. I think the big concern is that borers and others pest can invade a freshly pruned tree. I tend to be of the try it and see variety myself.

[Randy Rooster]

I worked my way through school working in an orchard -in the winter we started trimming the apple trees right after fall harvest. We'd trim right up through bud out every year and only quit when it was time to start thinning the peaches or planting new stock, which was another thankless job. You should be fine trimming them now up where you are.

[Steve L.]

Originally Posted by Randy Rooster

I worked my way through school working in an orchard -in the winter we started trimming the apple trees right after fall harvest. We'd trim right up through bud out every year and only quit when it was time to start thinning the peaches or planting new stock, which was another thankless job. You should be fine trimming them now up where you are.

Yep.

[WisJim]

Ideally you want to wait to start until the cold weather is over, so you can see if you have winter damage, so you can cut thae damaged stuff out first. No sense working out in the orchard when it is too cold or too wet, either. I usually figure on getting it done before the buds start to open, so I do my pruning of apples, pears, cherries, plums, etc., in March, then do the grapes when done with the trees. Some bleeding of sap isn't a major problem, especially with grapes, but with apples it could attract bees, and if you have fireblight in the area, the fireblight could be spread by the bees or other insects to the bleeding wounds.

[VALENT]

I always understood it that pruning later(like now) was only a problem as it could cause an earlier bud break than usual and then you could have freeze damage to buds, blossoms and young fruit. If you prune during complete dormancy, it wont cause an early bud break.

[Steve L.]

Originally Posted by VALENT

I always understood it that pruning later(like now) was only a problem as it could cause an earlier bud break than usual...

Myth.

[Farmerwilly2]

I've always planned mine during final 4 playoffs. As mentioned, lets you see what wood didn't make it through the winter, but buds are still tight. Usually have warm enough weather for dormant spray at the same time, however, getting dry days for it is usually the problem.