How would you vent the woodstove on a place like this?

[Silvercreek Farmer]

I am wanting to install a woodstove in our place that has a high pitched roof and living space upstairs. As I see it my options are to run it through the living space upstairs and out the roof near or at the peak, run it through the roof closer to the eaves and stabilize it to get it high enough to draft (this way it would not run through living space upstairs) or run it through the wall on the end of the house, near the middle then run it up the outside to the peak.

It looks kinda like this:

Boleyz, I hope you don't mind that I borrowed a picture of your place because it is so similar to ours! I couldn't quite see how you had done it.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

I would try and find a way to run it strait up if at all possable if that ment that ment finding a wall in the upstairs living space that i could box it out of or adding a framed in chimny box off the back of the house that was out just far enough that i could have the wood stove in it partialy

i have been researching this for a while double or trippl wall pipe strait up is best
if you have to make a bend then go out the back of the stove thru wall into a enclosed box for the class a stainless chimny you don't want the chiny to cool to quickly that is what condeces the creosil out of the hot gas and isulate any exterior chimny enclosures

you should also look for a stove with a outside air intake

[uncle Will in In.]

I agree with the above. A warm flue is by far the best to install. That would put it straight up the center of the house. Putting it out next to the peak insures not having backdrafts, and keeps most of the flue where it don't get cool and make the cool smoke fill it with creosote.
If the flue is not above the peak, it should be 2 feet higher than any part of the roof within 10 feet of the top of the flue to prevent downdrafts.

[Daddymem]

Ideal would be in the center of the house as mentioned above. We weren't able to do that with ours, we installed it on an outside wall. Here is the pipe coming up through the second floor:
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6...%20%285%29.jpg

Here is what it looks like from the outside:
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6...2011-03-06.jpg

Other pictures on our blog:
http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/
November 2006 install.

[gccrook]

Originally Posted by Daddymem

Ideal would be in the center of the house as mentioned above. We weren't able to do that with ours, we installed it on an outside wall. Here is the pipe coming up through the second floor:

Wow. That just looks expensive. I only had 2 sections of the double wall insulated, and it was expensive. Looks good though.

[ET1 SS]

Ours goes straight up in the center of the house. The hole in the roof is exactly at the peak ridge.

I got a real good deal on the thimble, flashing, storm collar, and 'shanty-cap'; at www.woodmanspartsplus.com

They had everything for about a third of the price that HomeDepot or our local hardware store stocked it for. I did get the local hardware store to order it for me though, I paid the list prices, and no shipping.

[michiganfarmer]

what is wrong with a traditional chimney? cement block with a Liner?

[ET1 SS]

Originally Posted by michiganfarmer

what is wrong with a traditional chimney? cement block with a Liner?

That usually takes a foundation to hold the weight.

Most traditional fireplaces lose most of their heat out the hcimney.

If it is on an outside wall, the bricks do hold a lot of the heat that does not escape; however half of that heat radiates outside and only half does inside.

[Daddymem]

Originally Posted by gccrook

Wow. That just looks expensive. I only had 2 sections of the double wall insulated, and it was expensive. Looks good though.

Oh yeah expensive. Pipe costs more than the stove...but that's the firecode around here....

[GREG VT]

I changed the existing, straight up through the roof, setup in our place when we got a new stove. It just took up to much room due to the layout of our post and beam, cathedral ceilinged, single pitched roofed home.

I went straight out the back of the stove through an outside wall and up the outside of the house.

I have a 90 degree bend and two 45's to get around a second story overhang.

The top of the pipe is approx 2' above the the ridge of the single pitched roof

Haven't had any draft problems. I check during the winter but have not had to sweep the chimney any more then the annual cleaning and inspection.

One plus to this set up is the ability to put a cleanout door at the 90 degree turn right outside the exit from the house. This makes sweeping the chimney easier and cleaner.

[Drizler]

These guys live and breathe this stuff and they will steer you in the safe and legal direction. You wouldn't want the insurance company to have an out if your house burned down would you?
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index...s/viewforum/2/

[Cabin Fever]

I agree with some of the rest:
1. Try to keep chimney inside the house as much as possible. That way the chimney doesn't cool down very much thus reducing the formation of creosote.
2. Run the chimney straight if possible, it is easier to clean...90º and 45º bends slow smoke down and promote creosote formation
3. Have the chimney exit the roof as near to the peak as possible. Less exposed chimney means less cooling of the smoke and therefore less creosote formation. A "short" exposed chimney is also easier to clean.

[Boleyz]

Originally Posted by Matthew Lindsay

I am wanting to install a woodstove in our place that has a high pitched roof and living space upstairs. As I see it my options are to run it through the living space upstairs and out the roof near or at the peak, run it through the roof closer to the eaves and stabilize it to get it high enough to draft (this way it would not run through living space upstairs) or run it through the wall on the end of the house, near the middle then run it up the outside to the peak.

It looks kinda like this:

Boleyz, I hope you don't mind that I borrowed a picture of your place because it is so similar to ours! I couldn't quite see how you had done it.

I was shocked when I opened the thread and saw my house! LOL...

Anyway, all my stuff is "Public Domain"...

The reason you can't see how I did it is because I didn't do it. I used an unvented gas log set in my creekrock fireplace, and I don't have a vent or a chimney.

If I was going to put in a real fireplace or stove, I would run a stovepipe out and up ... I'd use double wall pipe and then Put a vinyl siding Box around it that matched the house...making sure there was adequate air space between the stove pipe and the box sides.

[ET1 SS]

I agree with Cabin Fever, and that is just what I did with our stove pipe.

One thing though, I never did put in any double or triple walled pipe.

It is in the middle of the room. there is no combustible material near the stove. And the stove pipe goes straight up and through the roof.

I just finished the ceiling last week. I used some aluminum flashing and made a cylinder about two inches bigger than the stove pipe and I put it around the pipe just below the roof where the insulation is. So the heat from the stove pipe does not warm the insulation too much.

But we have been firing that stove up all win-tah, without the ceiling in place, and while the stove pipe has gotten way hot, it has not singed the insulation at all.

I guess that a wood stick house would be different. But I did not want to spend that much money

[kmaproperties]

cabin is right, see if you can position it to run through a second floor closet, you lose a little closet space but keep it straight and inside all the way up and out.

[Ed0517]

What Cabin said, straight, true, and inside, also Drizler about Hearth. And you only need to use double thru the combustibles.

ET1SS, sounds like you made another wall, but be careful. Keep an eye on it. if it chars even a little, it catches easier... there is a big word term... pyrophoric carbonization? something like that

[ET1 SS]

Originally Posted by Ed0517

What Cabin said, straight, true, and inside, also Drizler about Hearth. And you only need to use double thru the combustibles.

ET1SS, sounds like you made another wall, but be careful. Keep an eye on it. if it chars even a little, it catches easier... there is a big word term... pyrophoric carbonization? something like that

No other wall.

Just at the last 8 inches before passing through the roof, right where my ceiling is.

I packed the ceiling-to-roof gap [which is eight inches] with fiberglass batting. Of course the roof itself is coated with spray-on-foam. So right where the stove pipe passes through that eight inch gap, is where I stuffed two laps of flashing. Eight inch wide and a couple foot long coiled in a circle.

[ET1 SS]

I think that "pyrophoric carbonization" applies to wood stick housing.