wipe-on scratch hider/remover/stain??

[hoofinitnorth]

Before he passed away, my father-in-law told me of a wipe-on stain made by Jason that he bought for touching up old furniture, etc. but I can't find it anywhere. Any ideas? It's supposed to be literally wipe-on and let it dry and you are done and it does a good job of covering scratches and sort of quick-refinishing wood products.

[moopups]

There is a tubed product named 'Blem' in many different shades, maybe this will help.

[wilderness1989]

I've always used Old English brand furniture polish. You can find it at most food markets. It works great.

[hoofinitnorth]

moopups - Thanks I will look for the Blem product.

wilderness1989 - I'm wanting to refinish a wooden bed frame that is in really rough shape without spending a lot of money or time on it. I just want the color to be uniform from a far-away look. I'm sure the scratches & gouges will still be visible upon closer inspection but I'd like to just keep this simple - especially since I don't have a garage and it's winter!

[Bearfootfarm]

I like the Old English too. The scratched areas may come out a little darker, but it gives it character LOL

[frazzlehead]

Yep. Dad always uses Old English Scratch Cover.

I've seen it at Home Depot, I'm sure it's in many other places as well.

[botebum]

Check in the back of any professional furniture mover's van and you'll find a bottle of Old English Scratch Cover. Used it for years and never had a customer notice a new scratch. Shhhhh, don't tell.

Doug

[grannygardner]

Old English Scratch Cover is what I've always used also.

[agmantoo]

Kiwi shoe polish, the wax version in a color that matches the furniture. If you want more sheen after the color is matched apply tung oil until the level of shine wanted is achieved. Cheap and easy and very lasting. Gives a patina to older funiture.

[via media]

This is probably a bad idea for valuable furniture but...

...mine isn't.

I use a Sharpie to cover scratches. Draw along the scratch with a similar colored Sharpie (usually brown, to match wood) and immediately wipe with a cloth.

Excess will not ahere to the finish and will wipe right off on the cloth but the bare, exposed wood will now be colored brown.

/VM

[hoofinitnorth]

OK, maybe I titled this thread wrong - I really want a stain type product that is for refinishing but just requires a wipe-on and then drying time.

[NWMO]

I have had great luck with Formby's........they have a stain and finish that could be rubbed in........have alway had good luck with it and can be found in most any hardware store.

[botebum]

Originally Posted by hoofinitnorth

OK, maybe I titled this thread wrong - I really want a stain type product that is for refinishing but just requires a wipe-on and then drying time.

Well, in that case, many maufacturers such as MinWax, make wipe on gel stains with the polyurethane in it. I don't like them or recommend them but that's a personal preference. I don't use polyurethane because it's just plain thick. I don't like furniture that is hiding behind 1/16th inch of plastic.
If the furniture is worth it to you then take the time to do it right. Choose two or three stain colors that you like. Test them next to each other in an inconspicuous place on the piece(such as the back of the bottom of a rear leg) but not on secondary wood(like drawer bottoms or backs). Choose your poison, remembering that more stain and longer wait before wiping excess means more dark/color. If you are using soft wood(pine, poplar) or open grained wood(oak) it's a good idea to use a sanding sealer prior to staining. Once you have achieved the color you want, let it sit. And sit. And sit. Three days minimum. After waiting for the hardeners in the stain to cure (don't anyone tell me that the stain does not have hardeners. The evaporation of the carriers in the stain is inherently a hardener.) and the oils to absorb-

1.-completely wipe the whole piece down with a clean, terry cloth rag.
2.- Then go over the whole piece with #0000 steel wool.
3.-Then, apply the sheen of your choice of Waterlox™ wiping varnish with another clean rag or new foam brush.
4.-Repeat steps 1 through 3 at least three times and as many as eight times being sure not to switch rags. After the second coat it may not be necessary to steel wool the piece between coats, depending on how dust free your enviroment is. I have found that ten coats of waterlox is thinner than one coat of poly. You'll find that when you are done you'll have something that you can be proud of rather than something that just sits in the house and gets used. If you go with the one-step wipe on product- Well, you get what you pay for.

Doug

[hoofinitnorth]

Thank you ALL for your help!

Doug - this particular furniture is strictly utilitarian and is already in rough shape so I don't want to spend too much time, money, & effort on it BUT you have great tips (ones I needed to hear again) for better quality items. THANK YOU!

[Marilyn]

Old English Scratch Cover gets my vote always for dark furniture or woodwork. Now, for light furniture, I just use lemon oil - it seems to darken just a little on the raw scratch.