Anybody use a narrow kerf chain?

[Silvercreek Farmer]

I used a buddy's brand new Husky 142 this past weekend and that thing cut wood like butter. That model is a 40cc and I can't imagine that it all that much stronger than my 45cc Homelite, but it did seem to have more of a "gyroscopic" pull when I raced it, but what I really noticed was the chain. It appears like the teeth are a good bit smaller than mine, so I am assuming that they are what is referred to as "narrow kerf", however I couldn't find anything in the manual that referred to them as such and today I looked at the specific chain at Lowes and it didn't say narrow kerf either. For the past 2 years, I have used husky's sharpener that holds 2 files and hits both the tooth and the raker at the same time, but recently it seems like my chips are getting a bit small and I am having to push a bit harder than I should, even though the teeth feel sharp. Granted the chain was brand new on the Husky, but it seemed to almost pull itself into the wood and I never recall my Homelite doing that even when it was new. I have read a little about the narrow kerf chain on the net and it says that they work well with the lower hp saws, I have also seen people remark that the bar and chain aren't as strong, which I do not doubt as they are thinner. I bought a Oregon raker file and guide today which I am going to try, as perhaps the husky sharpener doesn't work quite properly on a different brand chain. But if this doesn't work I may buy a narrow kerf bar/chain as it was better than anything I have used in the past,(which isn't saying much!). I even ripped a few boards out of logs and ripped up a few extremely knotty pieces of wood just for fun because the saw cut so well. Maybe the Husky is just that much better than the Homelite, dunno. What do you think?

[Chas in Me]

Start with your rakers. If they are positioned right you may have sharpened the chain too much and it is worn out.

[Rick]

Truth is, that is probably a "safety" chain on the new saw. My original Stihl chain was a safety chain, and I had to sign a paper to get a replacement- non safety chain for it last month.

I also remember, when I replaced my Husky chain, they said it was a sharper chain then the factory equipped chain.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Well, I checked my rakers last night with the guage and they were all proper, so I guess that was not it, I rounded them off a bit and hit all the teeth with the rat tail but it still doesn't seem to cut quite like it should, I may need to take it to the shop and get them to show me what the problem is.

[Oggie]

If you replace the chain and bar with a chain that is more narrow, you will probably have to replace the drive socket, also.

The Stihl I use has a .325" chain. At one time I thought about replacing it with a 3/8" chain so chains could be shared with a 3/8" old Homelite we also used sometimes. But the Homelite died before I made up my mind. The chain, bar and sprocket would all have to be replaced. Bars and chains come as small as 1/4", but they might not fit your saw.

As long as the chain is sharp and the rakers are the correct height for the wood you are cutting, I'm not sure there is that much difference between a .325" and a 3/8" chain (as long as those configurations are recommended by the manufacturer of your saw).

[michiganfarmer]

Originally Posted by Oggie

If you replace the chain and bar with a chain that is more narrow, you will probably have to replace the drive socket, also.

The Stihl I use has a .325" chain. At one time I thought about replacing it with a 3/8" chain so chains could be shared with a 3/8" old Homelite we also used sometimes. But the Homelite died before I made up my mind. The chain, bar and sprocket would all have to be replaced. Bars and chains come as small as 1/4", but they might not fit your saw.

As long as the chain is sharp and the rakers are the correct height for the wood you are cutting, I'm not sure there is that much difference between a .325" and a 3/8" chain (as long as those configurations are recommended by the manufacturer of your saw).

the .325, and 3/8 refers to the distance bewteen the drivers

[michiganfarmer]

Originally Posted by Matthew Lindsay

Well, I checked my rakers last night with the guage and they were all proper, so I guess that was not it, I rounded them off a bit and hit all the teeth with the rat tail but it still doesn't seem to cut quite like it should, I may need to take it to the shop and get them to show me what the problem is.

the problem with that idea is if its a small shop like mine they are selling their expertise to keep a roof over thier kids heads. They are in business to take care of problems for people who dont know how to. WHy dont you just pay them to fix it.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Originally Posted by michiganfarmer

the problem with that idea is if its a small shop like mine they are selling their expertise to keep a roof over thier kids heads. They are in business to take care of problems for people who dont know how to. WHy dont you just pay them to fix it.

While I understand the need to make a living, I also understand that when someone takes the time to explain something, instead of just pushing someone off, they are much more likely to return the next time they need something, it's just good business. I don't know how many times I have explained a facet of banking to people that no one else would ever take the time to do because the particular person isn't "profitable" enough to them.

[Oggie]

Originally Posted by michiganfarmer

the .325, and 3/8 refers to the distance bewteen the drivers

Of course, you're right. I get the pitch and the gauge mixed up all the time because, while it isn't always so, the gauge of the chain is usually heavier when the pitch increases. It is possible to use a narrower gauge chain with the same pitch, but around here those chains are not usually readily available.

Just another reason to work with a qualified saw shop and to happily pay them for the service.