windows, insulation, mold problems, etc.

[Paul Wheaton]

So here I am in a damp climate and ... I have mold on my windows. I have tried leaving the windows open just a pinch, but that didn't seem to make enough of a difference and the cold that comes in goes right to the bone!

I had an idea ... A friend showed me something he was going to make and he had this stuff that looked like clear corrugated cardboard. I need to find out what this stuff is called and go out and get some. I figure that I can cut this stuff into the shape of the windows and slide it into the window sill. This will add a layer of insulation, plus remove opportunity for water to condense.

This is just a crazy idea - what do you all think?

[DenverGirlie]

That clear plastic cardboard stuff has an offical name but I can't recall it. I do know it's used primaryily in greenshouses. It's pricey thou.

We used bubble wrap ... spray bottle of water -- spray window - stick bubblewrap to window, then use that window shrink wrap stuff, windows are sealed for winter. That will just push the excess mositure to another place, but away from your windows.


Better choice - get a dehumidifer to remove excess water from the air as there is too much if you are growing mold.

[haypoint]

I think you'd still get some moisture on the window frame and continue with the mold problem. Insulated glass windows are less likely to sweat, but that's an expensive change. Try inside plastic heat srink sheets. They go into your window trim, double-sided tape. Put the clear plastic sheets and turn the hair dryer on it. It'll tighten up and give a vapor proof seal.
I've seen inside window fillers made of 2 inch styrofoam with 1/2 foam rubber stuck to the edges, then cover the whole thing with cheap cotton material. Made to fit snuggly over the entire window frame. Can't see out, but if you have fogged up windows, you aren't able to see out anyway.

[Cabin Fever]

I second the idea of the shrink wrap window film (3M makes the best one, IMHO). The house I used to live in had terrible windows and poor storm windows. The window frames would get an inch of frost on them all winter long. The frames were starting to mildew and rot. I started using that 3M product every fall. The stuff is crystal clear and easy to use. The result was less draftiness, less energy consumption and, best of all, no frost on the window frames anymore! On real cold days their might be some frost on the plastic, but not on the windows. Give it a try.

[grannygardner]

Our mobile home in Arizona was old and the windows were very drafty. We used the bubble wrap applied to the windows on the north and west sides with the 3M applied to the window frames. On the south and east we used just the 3M plastic in order to allow the sun to shine in. It made a huge difference.

[RoseGarden]

I am in a different state than Washington, but have high humidity also. The dehumidifier has been the best solution to dampness of all kinds in the house. Bought mine about five years ago and it still runs well.

A question about the 3M product, please...... does it also reduce heat loss through the windows in the winter? I have single pane aluminum framed windows and can't afford to replace all of them. If the 3M product helps reduce heat loss, I might get some too.

[FrankTheTank]

That plastic stuff does work real nice. Only problem i have is the tape taking off the finish on the molding? I should just leave it on year round, but i like to open the windows in the summer. I wonder if using on the cold side (outside) would work just as good????

I'd add a dehumidifer to your setup too...you've got waay to much moisture in your home...maybe add an OUTSIDE bathroom vent and one in the kitchen??

[Marcia in MT]

When we lived in WA, we also had a lot of problems with condensation on the windows. We laid plastic sheeting over the ground in the crawl space and it was amazing how much less water we had on the windows!

[Windy in Kansas]

I believe you are thinking of polycarbonate.

To keep so much cold from getting to the interior I would add storm windows or wooden frames and shrink kits over the storm windows.

Maybe frames and shrink kits for the interior too. Each layer will make the temperature change more gradual and lessen the condensation chance.

You might also check into an air to air heat exchanger. One of those would expel humid air and bring in fresh. The basic unit is less than you might think. Perhaps $300 to $400 plus ducting. Kitchen and bathroom ducting a must.

[Pouncer]

Another low tech idea that many people overlook is simple air flow. Get some fans going to move that moisture off the windows. We get plenty of ice (cold temps) and I have those fancy schmancy pleated shades-I need to raise them every couple of days to melt the ice that's accumulated. I could leave them up an inch, but I never remember. We have three or four fans going all the time, and it really works. What is does is get a circular pattern of air moving in a room-brushing the windows. You don't point right at them, you point off about 30 degrees....get a current going.

[fishhead]

Any time you can create another dead air space between the interior of the house and the outside you've added insulation.

I use semi-clear plastic stapled to the outside frame of my windows and sometimes the clear shrink fit inside.