which snowshoes?

[joaniebalonie]

i want some! my search brought up info from a few years ago. anything new?
it's for recreational use i guess you'd say...just getting around on our own property. we're in a canyon and have trees, rock outcroppings (not that i'd be climbing all over them), but also flat open meadows. i see the size is determined by weight but do i put height into the equasion? i'm not too tall so don't want to end up with something that would be awkward as clown shoes, ya know? i'm 5'2" and weigh 105. would the v tail work better for me, or stick with the classic style? thanks in advance!

[Jen H]

Height doesn't matter at all, just weight. You have to make sure the shoe is big enough to distribute your weight on top of the snow. Walking in them does take some getting used to, but the new ones are way easier than the old-style ones are.

I like my MSR Denali Classic snowshoes.

[Cabin Fever]

A lot of trees? use Bear Paw style

Flat trails over frozen lakes and meadows? use Alaskan style

Compromise between the top two: use Michigan style

[moonwolf]

I still like my old style made with gut. The new ones with cleats might be your best bet for climbing.
For open meadows and deep, deep snow, you might try Beavertails.
For tight areas (woodlands) or snow packed trails (or snow not too deep) the Bearpaws. I use Bearpaws on trails most of the time, also for moving faster once the trails are packed.

[DenverGirlie]

http://www.redfeather.com/

They have all sorts of kinds for all sorts of different snowshoers

[Jackpine Savage]

Consider size carefully as well. If you are breaking trail in powder snow you want a bigger shoe than if you are mostly following trails. In my experience the sizing recommedations on the new style shoes assume you are running on trails. I would suggest going up a size at least if you are mostly breaking your own trail.

[joaniebalonie]

ahh, well then it looks like bearpaw or michigan. and i didn't know about going up a size for breaking my own trail. thanks muchly for the info! it's disappointing when you're excited about doing something only to find out you got the 'wrong' equipment.

[Ed_Stanton]

With the more modern units, I don't find that size matters a whole lot. I've got two pairs, longer and shorter, the shorter ones having more aggressive teeth for climbing, but they both work about the same in deep snow and for trail blazing and even in the forest, they'll still feel somewhat like clowns feet. The longer units to my surprise don't float any better or worse than my shorter ones or my gut beavertails. They are lighter than my beavertails, so I usually go with them. If you were into running, then specs might matter a whole lot more, but for putzing around on your property, then good construction and workmanship might be the main criteria other than not going too large or too small. The webbing material types long term may be a factor and are so in extremely cold weather but again, may only be important for really demanding use. Have Fun. It's a wonderful way to travel.

[joaniebalonie]

hey ed,
can you tell me what brand you have? i've been checking reviews but haven't found a whole lot of feedback on them. interesting, yes, that you don't notice much advantage with the longer ones. i don't know, it just seems that (although i have NO experience with ss'ing) someone with a shorter stride would do better with a shorter shoe, such as in skiis.

[moonwolf]

Originally Posted by Jackpine Savage

Consider size carefully as well. If you are breaking trail in powder snow you want a bigger shoe than if you are mostly following trails. In my experience the sizing recommedations on the new style shoes assume you are running on trails. I would suggest going up a size at least if you are mostly breaking your own trail.

ditto.

and the deeper the snow for breaking new trail, the more you'll appreciate a wider and longer stance snowshoe.
I like to have 2 pair on hand. One, like the smaller bear paw AFTER the trail is packed. The larger sized shoe will enable you to make new trail without sinking in so much if there is a deep snow to break the trail. For shallow snow, it wouldn't be such a factor. You'll know the difference, once you experience it.

[Ed_Stanton]

Joanie, the less expensive pair are made by Atlas, Model #944, though they may be 6 years old now and the models probably change. This pair is 9.5" x 36" (edge of frame). The frame is aluminum alloy of some sort. The other pair are Big Bear, Model Ursus and they are 9" x 30". The shorter pair are a different rubber upper and have very aggressive teeth front and back. There are quite a few good manufacturers. Differences and costs probably vary in types of aluminum used (weight and strength), the quality of the platform rubber (durability), rivets, welding, teeth and some design perhaps. The lower quality platform material can wear quicker and tear or fray on hard snow or mix of snow and dirt but they can also be repaired. Some types even use cheap nylon webbing.

To me, they handle the same and I use them a lot and we have a fair bit of snow in my area of Canada. They are better than my older gut Beavertail type, as the harness is MUCH better on the newer shoes, faster, easier on and off and once adjusted they stay adjusted. As well, the older gut shoes slip TOO much on slight inclines, side hills and crust. So to me, having teeth on the shoes REALLY helps and under the heel helps on side hills and crusted uphills.

I have friends that ski and snowboard outside of ski areas and they use very small plastic snowshoes in very deep snow (they'd be up to their armpits without the shoes) and they swear by them. I haven't tried or compared these smaller, one piece plastic type but apparently they do work. You will ALWAYS sink to some degree, but how much is what you are trying to control. For your weight, you might indeed be able to get away with a much smaller shoe than me or others. If this is a big investment for you, perhaps you can rent a few different types? But even in low quality rentals, I've had good experiences and so have come to the conclusion that they all will work pretty well for recreational use and that size doesn't matter all that much with the modern shoes (unless you're REALLY heavy or carrying heavy loads), mainly because they close the top skin so much compared to the gut shoes that had zillions of open cells and so a large surface area was really needed. The very small 15-24"" one piece plastic shoes have no platform openings and they still float very well, probably even better than the old 36+" beavertails. However, the gut shoes are very pleasing to look at as they hang on my wall inside the house, now enjoying retirement.

[joaniebalonie]

thank you for taking the time to help me out. i feel a little enlightened on the subject now. i remember one review had a negative for 'too many straps' so i'll watch out for that; i do see a couple quick release/easy to put on types. so now i'm going cyber shopping! thanks again...j

[Ed_Stanton]

Just got back from a lovely 90 min. snowshoe through hill, dale and forest on my property. Temp was a lovely -9.5 F / -23 C, almost too warm since I had my down jacket. Saw the the sun set gold & then orange on the mountains, a bald eagle fly overhead & a distant coyote mousing. I crossed tracks of a lynx, deer & a moose. I forgot to add these links with some further snowshoe buying info.

REI Buying Info

http://tinyurl.com/bl2be

http://tinyurl.com/yabya7

MEC Buying Info

http://tinyurl.com/yhh3nb

[joaniebalonie]

wow ed, that sounds like my property; hill, dale and forest! thanks for the links. rei is prominent here in colorado so i had glanced (only) at their shoes. their guide is really informative and i probably wouldn't have checked it out if you hadn't linked it. your trek must have been awesome. btw, i'm sure those retired snowshoes do look great hanging up. i'm gonna try out a pair of those sometime.