I have access to a bunch of poplar logs and I am wondering if the will burn well in our stove. I'd hate to leave it to rot if it is good wood but I don't want too go throug the trouble of getting it if it is not good for burning.
I burn popular all the time, just chuck it into the stoves hopper and heat your house. Sure it's far from top, quality, but why just let it rot. Cuts quick with any chainsaw, drys out in less than a year and splits with ease. Tennessee John
We used to burn Poplar until we got a good supply of Pine and Spruce, and some Beech (which is far hotter, and has better coals than Pine or Spruce.)
The problem we find with Poplar is the huge amount of ash. We can go three months with out emptying the ash drawer in our catalytic Blaze King if we burn Pine or Spruce, and it seems much hotter (even though the published heat content is not greater.)
If we burn Poplar, which we have a seemingly unlimited supply of (as we do of Pine and Spruce too,) ash must be removed every few days. Also, some people are sensitive to Poplar odor.
Technically, it gives just as much heat per cord as my beloved Pine and Spruce.
Burn baby burn, Poplar.
Windrows of Poplar near our place -- logging slash to be burned. These sources of wood, including Pine, Spruce, and some Beech are all over this logged Section, and free for the taking.
for my outside wood stove, I like to burn green poplar mixed with dry ash. The burn rate is slower is what I find with this combination, with good heat. For indoor stove or furnace, I'd make sure the poplar was seasoned and dry, but you will go through more of it than you would a denser wood such as oak or ash.
The human spirit needs places where nature has not been rearranged by the hand of man.
Dry poplar has the same BTUs as dry oak, pound for pound. That's a trick statement, it'll take a lot of pieces of dry poplar to equal the weight of a couple sticks of oak. I'd stay away from burning any green wood, better to control the burn with an air tight stove. Green wood consumes heat in order to drive the moisture out and the cooler combustion temperatures create a lot of cresote. As has been said in earlier posts, it is harder to keep a long lasting fire with dry poplar. I recommend you split it so it can dry properly. Keep it covered if you can. If not, just try to keep a weeks worth inside so the outside moisture has a chance to dry.
i wonder how the western poplars compare to the tulip poplar common on the east coast and the mid-west. isn't the poplar in the west actually a "true" poplar and related to aspen and the tulip poplar is actually a magnolia relative...or something like that?
this message has probably been edited to correct typos, spelling errors and to improve grammar...
Tulip poplar is some of the wood I burn and yes it's related to the magnolia tree. I live in central Tennessee. Keep in mind that wood is my primary source of winter heat. I don't burn 100% poplar, it's always mixed in with oak, maple, hickory, sourwood and others. Poplar will heat your home you just need a lot of it ready to burn....Tennessee John
hey thanks all for the replys. One question, it was mentioned that I could/should sell the wood. What size do the logs have to be to sell them? I get mostly the trees that are already down and got some big logs sometimes. Looks like other than selling them there is no problem with burning them. That is good to know. Thanks all.
Tulip poplar is also know as yellow poplar in my neck of the woods. It's a hardwood but with poor burn qualities. It is in the magnolia family. Happy Burning,,,, Tennessee John
I have an old farmstead in New Brunwick, and the tree they call a poplar there is different from the tulip poplar we have in the South. I'm not sure how big the northern version grows, but I've never seen one equal in size to the tulip poplars I've cut on the farm in Georgia. I could have cut 30"x30" beams from some of those. Tulip poplar makes "OK" firewood, but like it's Northern neighbor, it's not the best. Tulip poplar makes exceptional lumber for many purposes.