Homesteading in Homer,AK

[Arkie1]

I've read everything I can find about Homer,AK so 'facts & statistics' are not what I'm looking for as much as first hand experiences of what it's like homesteading in AK especially in the Kenai Peninsula region.

I have lived in the far north most of my life; so I'm fully prepared for -30 winters and 100+ inches of snow if that should happen. In fact, I loved it and thrived in that cold environment. :baby04:

Mainly I'm interested in the homesteading aspects of life in AK such as the growing season; I read up on the temperature and first/last frost dates but first hand is a much better barometer of what one could possibly grow.

What types of rodents & large game seems to be attracted to the gardens? I've heard about voles, hares/rabbits and moose; are there any other veggie munchers I should plan on trying to keep out?

I'm assuming right off the bat that livestock and poultry would be attractive to a whole list of predators. Will chain link fence with an underground barrier and a top protect chickens from bears? I've never encountered a determined bear vs fencing so I'm wondering if chain link would hold against a bear.
Any information or experiences you could share with me would be greatly appreciated.

[Freeholder]

I've never lived at Homer, but we did camp there for three months the summer after I turned ten -- and I have lived at Sitka, Tok, and Delta Junction (the latter two are in the Interior, which is much colder and dryer). My mother wanted Dad to take up a homestead down around Homer but he got one at Delta Junction, instead, which probably contributed to the end of their marriage eventually, as she'd been raised near the ocean and missed it. Anyway, I'll see if I can help a bit with your questions.

Anyplace by the ocean, as Homer is, will have a much wetter climate than inland. It does get quite a bit of snow in the winter -- be prepared for a lot of gray days.

One thing that people there used to do, and I don't know if it's still possible, but there is a coal seam (low-grade coal, not anthracite) that drops coal onto an area beach, and people used to go with their pick-ups and collect coal for winter heating. You will need heat nearly all year, as coastal areas never get as warm as interior areas. You'll be able to fish, crab, and dig clams as well as hunt deer and moose (and bear, if you are willing to eat bear meat -- all meat, even bear, is required by law to be used). You would probably want, if not need, a boat capable of getting you to some more remote areas for some of these activities, as the population down there has grown a lot.

You should be able to grow some of the hardiest fruit trees -- some apples, plums, and possibly hardy cherries. I'm not sure if elderberries would grow there, but most of the other berries will, and you'll find some growing wild. With a small greenhouse, you would be able to grow almost anything in your garden, except probably not stuff like corn or squash. The growing season is long enough for short-season corn, but I don't think, close to the ocean like that, that there would be enough heat for the corn to mature. You ought to be able to grow oats and barley, however. Pasture is easy, if you want to raise livestock. I think the soils there are probably pretty good -- I remember it being lushly vegetated the summer we were there (of course, that was in comparison with the Interior!).

Pests -- the ones you mentioned -- moose are really hard to fence out -- they either just step over any fence shorter than about six feet, or plow right through it, like the cowcatcher on a train!

Bear are NOT stopped by chain link fencing, although you might want to use it around your chickens anyway, as it will stop stray dogs and such. A good big watchdog and a handy loaded large-caliber rifle are your best defenses against bear getting into your livestock. However, it's really not all that common to have trouble with them that way. We only saw a bear once while we lived on our homestead -- Mom had to shoot it, because it was trying to get into the house, but it was after the rhubarb pies she had in the oven, not us.

I really liked the Homer area, and if it wasn't so expensive would love to go back there to live.

Kathleen

Originally Posted by Arkie1

I've read everything I can find about Homer,AK so 'facts & statistics' are not what I'm looking for as much as first hand experiences of what it's like homesteading in AK especially in the Kenai Peninsula region.

I have lived in the far north most of my life; so I'm fully prepared for -30 winters and 100+ inches of snow if that should happen. In fact, I loved it and thrived in that cold environment. :baby04:

Mainly I'm interested in the homesteading aspects of life in AK such as the growing season; I read up on the temperature and first/last frost dates but first hand is a much better barometer of what one could possibly grow.

What types of rodents & large game seems to be attracted to the gardens? I've heard about voles, hares/rabbits and moose; are there any other veggie munchers I should plan on trying to keep out?

I'm assuming right off the bat that livestock and poultry would be attractive to a whole list of predators. Will chain link fence with an underground barrier and a top protect chickens from bears? I've never encountered a determined bear vs fencing so I'm wondering if chain link would hold against a bear.
Any information or experiences you could share with me would be greatly appreciated.

[Arkie1]

Kathleen, thank you, thank you! That's exactly the kind of information I was looking for!
I knew that the touristy websites were going to paint the best picture of an area & I can understand that fact since tourists are there for such a short time.
But researching and planning on making a life up there is much different and the concerns are different than those of a tourist.
If I move up there, you'll get the first invitation!

[Freeholder]

I just realized that I did forget to mention the one really big drawback, and your touristy sites aren't going to mention this, either! And that is the bugs! In summer you will be eaten alive by mosquitoes, black flies, white sox, and no-see-ums! If you've lived in the far north, you already know about those, but I didn't want you to forget!

Thanks for the invite! Maybe I'll take you up on it! Though if I ever go back north to live, I'll probably stop at Tok, since my brothers are both there, and there are no property taxes there. But I'd love to come down for a visit.

Kathleen

[farmerdan]

I have a good Alaska born friend who I use to teach with in Nome that now runs and operates a B&B in Homer. She's a real sweetie - pushing 80 years old and still loves to entertain people. She might be a good person to get in touch with since she's lived there for many years and not just as a visitor when she was young. Let me know and I'll give you her email address if you want. I visited Homer before but it's been years ago and a lot has changed in that time.

Dan

[Aintlifegrand]

I lived not far from Homer Alaska and often visted there. As far as livestock, I have never really seen any farming of that type there. Most homestead off wildlife and sealife. There are some livestock barns in Matanuska Valley ( northeast somewhat), they all have heated barns and still have trouble with traditional livestock survival rates. They do grow many vegitable and the nearly 24 hour sunlight during the summer was great. We had beautiful vegitable gardens, you just have to know what will do well for your soil and growing season just like any other. Check out the Co Op extension and 4H in Matanuska Valley, they will probably be able to help since Homer is not that far. Another really nice area is Hatcher's Pass and Palmer. The winters are better than those in the interior but the darkness is hard to deal with. I slept the first winter I was there all day just like a bear in hibernation. They do not get the warmer temps of the interior in the summer. Mostly that area is rainy and cloudy alot of the summer. Costs are the main reason we moved. It was just too expensive. Although land was not that bad, building materials and living supplies were astronomical. Some of the most beautiful places I have been were in Alaska.

[arcticpixie]

I’ve only been to Homer on a camping trip, I’m from the Interior myself so I don’t know a whole lot about their unique situation. There is some non-touristy info you could get though:

Alaska Farm Bureau: http://akfb.fb.org/
There is a Farm Bureau Chapter for the area and you should be able to get in touch with some locals that could give you the ins and outs of the area.

Alaska Homesteading Forum: http://akhomesteaders.proboards44.com/index.cgi
Somewhat slow board, especially this time of year with everyone getting ready for this winter, (which is shaping up to be a real classic from the feel of it) but a search through the threads should give you plenty of food for thought.

Alaska Cooperative Extension: http://www.uaf.edu/ces/publications/pub_toc.html
This is a list of their publications, many of them free Adobe downloads. Several are specific to South Central AK. Others are just general for AK. A cruise around the sight will get you in touch with an extension agent if you want. The agents are awesome and willing to answer, or find the answer, to any question your likely to ask about Ag.

If you’re a reader, there are a few books that might give you a feel for the area. Tom Bodett, of ‘We’ll leave the light on for you’ fame, is from Homer and has written a series of humorous fiction about the area and it’s somewhat quirky residents. Big Garage on Clearshot happens to be one of my favorites.

I think everybody who spends a day in Homer wants to stay there if they could just figure out a way. I loved the little town, it’s artistic oddities and breathtaking views. The place is magical and funny as heck all at once. I can’t figure out how to describe it. I saw a bumper sticker once: “Homer. A quaint little drinking town with a fishing problem”.

The big thing about homesteading in AK is adaptability and ingenuity. You have to be able to combine age old methods with modern innovations to find things that will work in our environment. You can’t stick to how it’s supposed to be, you have to do what actually works. Nature is very close here, set to pounce at any moment to reclaim what is hers. And I love it. It requires me to think through what I’m doing on a regular basis. I can’t just cruise by on standby.

[Freeholder]

Even in warmer climates, most livestock kept in closed-up barns all winter will experience health problems. They can usually handle quite cold temperatures if they can get out of the wind and have deep, dry bedding to lie down in. Even in Tok, which is about the coldest inhabited spot in the state, horses do fine outdoors all winter -- they grow the thickest hair you'll ever see on a horse, but as long as they've got plenty of food and water, and someplace to get out of the wind, they stay fat and sassy. Ditto with goats (although the habit bucks have of peeing all over their legs can be fatal at seventy below zero -- ask me how I know). And you certainly wouldn't want kids born in that kind of weather unless you were prepared to keep them indoors until spring. Our chickens survived in a partially open barn. Some lost toes, and all their combs got frost-bitten (pea combs are advisable), but we got at least a few eggs all winter, and none of the hens died. The extension agent in Fairbanks told us that geese can survive 100 below, and ducks are almost as hardy, so you might rather keep some laying ducks rather than chickens (which originated in the tropics, after all). Cattle are just as hardy as horses.

There used to be more farms around Homer, but farming is becoming less and less common everywhere, and with cheap food being flown in daily it's not been very viable to farm in Alaska. That will change, I think, as fuel prices go up. Locally grown food will become more important, and I think more people will go back to at least raising some of their own, and perhaps some extra to sell as well.

Kathleen

[Reillybug]

Check out the Co Op extension and 4H in Matanuska Valley, they will probably be able to help since Homer is not that far. Another really nice area is Hatcher's Pass and Palmer.

I grew up in Anchorage, and Homer is the place everyone who visits Alaska wants to live, for many good reasons. And it's a vastly different town during the summer than in the winter when the tourists are gone. Still cool, but different. I spent 5 years living in the woods north of Wasilla, and my family has homesteaded in the Palmer area since the 60's. But, I have to disagree slightly with Aintlifegrand's comment and say that Homer is about 250 miles from the Mat-Su Valley, and the hardiness zones and climate are quite different in many ways. The Mat-Su is known for it's extended growing seasons, as was mentioned, but you have to know what does well in that climate because not everything does. But most of my family have huge gardens and when combined with hunting and fishing manage to provide a large portion of their own food each year. I had gardens and found that the 8-foot chain link fence didn't really keep moose out entirely. They are amazing jumpers! Had many bear around, but they typically weren't a problem and avoided the house, probably because of the dogs. Roving groups of dogs (both stray and not) were more of a problem in my neck of the woods.

Keeping livestock is dying out there, and many of the large farms developed in the Mat-Su valley in the 40's and 50's are now subdivisions. Palmer and Hatcher's Pass are among the most beautiful places in the world. But prices have skyrocketed as both Palmer and Wasilla have become suburbs of Anchorage and Eagle River. Traffic is getting worse, despite a huge highway expansion in the Valley a few years ago. The 3.0 wooded acres on a lake with a 700 sq cabin that I bought in 1999 sold for $40k more when I sold it in 2001, and I was told it sold last year for $40K more than the 2001 price! Unbelievable! The whole frontier feel of the Valley is changing to one of more suburban yuppiedom, sadly. The old-timers are still there, but are harder to find! And there's a huge resort and residential development going in at Hatcher's Pass now that just breaks my heart.

If you are looking in that area, you might want to head further north to Houston, Big Lake, or even farther up the highway from there toward Talkeetna. I love Alaska and will always consider it home - I'm the only one in my family to leave, but it is different in many ways than it was when my family moved there to homestead in the 1950's. And true homesteading there is tough - as several folks on this forum who are doing it can attest. Alaska is a place like no other, and has special challenges that many aren't prepared to handle.

[Aintlifegrand]

I guess it is further than I was thinking...it has been a few years. Sounds like things are changing as far as prices for land. It didn't seem that bad to me then. My DS lives in the interior now and says much the same thing about land prices there. It was a wonderful place to live.

[arcticpixie]

You know what they say...

"The nice thing about Anchorage is it's so close to Alaska"



I love Houston, so beautiful and calm compared to the rest of the valley. Had the 'unexpected' opportunity to drive the Glen Hiway from Palmer last Saturday and discovered Glennallen (again after many years). Now there is the last frontier! Road towns are so cool.

An example of life in AK...

Last Friday I drove from Fairbanks to Anchorage (374 miles one way) to pick up my daughter who flew home from CA. Pick her up, head back, stop in Houston to camp. Wake up the next morning and start driving north. Drive over several bridges in flood stage until I get to Talkeetna Jnct. to get gas where I am informed that the Parks Hiway is closed 10 miles up. Ok. Turn the suburban around and drive south again 60 miles or so, hang a left on the Glen and drive 150 miles (roughly) east. Take another left and drive north 250 Miles back to our little homestead outside Fairbanks. This may not seem like a big deal in the lower 48. In AK there are only 3-4 major hiways, the large portion of which are two lanes, one coming and one going. Of the 250 miles of the Richardson Hiway there were a total of 4 gas stations, a handfull of 'road towns' that consist of 5-10 driveways with huge 'trespassers will be shot' signs and mile upon mile of raw unadulterated wilderness. I passed perhaps 30-50 cars during the entire trip. I had 3 children under 10 and a cell phone that didn't work 90% of the time because of the terrain. Was I safe? I like to think so. I've lived here all my life. We had camping gear and plenty of emergency gear. At least 3 days of food packed in the cooler and I know enough about bush life to get by until found. When ppl complain about us Suburban drivers and our gas hogs I get seriously ----ed. Try packing enough survival gear for a family of 5 in a Honda! Yeah, gas hogs suck. But if I'm going to hit a 2000 lb moose or get stranded on a hiway 300 miles from the nearest whistle stop I'd much rather have my Suburban than a geo. I put 917 miles on my beastie in two days and my toddler thinks the idea of getting back in his carseat ridiculous at best. But we made it home and enjoyed some beatiful scenery on the way.

Not that any of this helps in your search for info on homesteading in Homer But it gives you an idea of some of the interesting things us AK nuts end up doing.

[Arkie1]

Pixie, I think I'll fit in real well since I didn't think your preps and actions were abnormal. Since I'm past the children at home stage of life; the most challenging thought would have been keeping a toddler happy for all those miles.
I always have emergency gear & survival supplies with me even though I'm now in an area where that isn't as necessary. Those habits never go away I guess.
Thank you for sharing a glimpse of daily life in AK.

Originally Posted by arcticpixie

You know what they say...

"The nice thing about Anchorage is it's so close to Alaska"



I love Houston, so beautiful and calm compared to the rest of the valley. Had the 'unexpected' opportunity to drive the Glen Hiway from Palmer last Saturday and discovered Glennallen (again after many years). Now there is the last frontier! Road towns are so cool.

An example of life in AK...

Last Friday I drove from Fairbanks to Anchorage (374 miles one way) to pick up my daughter who flew home from CA. Pick her up, head back, stop in Houston to camp. Wake up the next morning and start driving north. Drive over several bridges in flood stage until I get to Talkeetna Jnct. to get gas where I am informed that the Parks Hiway is closed 10 miles up. Ok. Turn the suburban around and drive south again 60 miles or so, hang a left on the Glen and drive 150 miles (roughly) east. Take another left and drive north 250 Miles back to our little homestead outside Fairbanks. This may not seem like a big deal in the lower 48. In AK there are only 3-4 major hiways, the large portion of which are two lanes, one coming and one going. Of the 250 miles of the Richardson Hiway there were a total of 4 gas stations, a handfull of 'road towns' that consist of 5-10 driveways with huge 'trespassers will be shot' signs and mile upon mile of raw unadulterated wilderness. I passed perhaps 30-50 cars during the entire trip. I had 3 children under 10 and a cell phone that didn't work 90% of the time because of the terrain. Was I safe? I like to think so. I've lived here all my life. We had camping gear and plenty of emergency gear. At least 3 days of food packed in the cooler and I know enough about bush life to get by until found. When ppl complain about us Suburban drivers and our gas hogs I get seriously ----ed. Try packing enough survival gear for a family of 5 in a Honda! Yeah, gas hogs suck. But if I'm going to hit a 2000 lb moose or get stranded on a hiway 300 miles from the nearest whistle stop I'd much rather have my Suburban than a geo. I put 917 miles on my beastie in two days and my toddler thinks the idea of getting back in his carseat ridiculous at best. But we made it home and enjoyed some beatiful scenery on the way.

Not that any of this helps in your search for info on homesteading in Homer But it gives you an idea of some of the interesting things us AK nuts end up doing.

[texican]

One thing also about Homer... depending on where you live, you need to be aware of the tsunami warning system, and have an escape route handy for when the next tsunami rolls thru.

[Arkie1]

Originally Posted by texican

One thing also about Homer... depending on where you live, you need to be aware of the tsunami warning system, and have an escape route handy for when the next tsunami rolls thru.

Actually, the land is located 2 miles out from the community of Nikolaevsk, Alaska which is about 25 miles from Homer according to the realtor.

I used Homer since I thought that would be the closest well known town and 25 miles in AK is really 'just down the road a piece'.

[Ramblin Wreck]

I can't help much with advice about living there, but I can say it is a beautiful area. All of the Kenai is beautiful. There was one aspect of it that reminded me of the South I grew up in (but which doesn't really exist in the Atlanta area any longer). You will see million dollar homes with million dollar views and right next door you will see a $100 home with the same views...and it appears that no one has a problem with it. That's the way it should be I think. Good luck in your research.

[Reillybug]

You will see million dollar homes with million dollar views and right next door you will see a $100 home with the same views...and it appears that no one has a problem with it.

Almost all of Alaska (outside of Anchorage) is the same way! That's truly part of the appeal for lots of people.

An example of life in AK...

Sounds familiar - and no one outside of Alaska seems to understand what it is really like to have to stock your car for ANY event! Once I left Alaska I finally understood how other folks fit everything they need into a mere "car" instead of the Suburban! And folks really don't understand how there are only three highways and two of them pretty much have dead ends, while the other leads out of the state! Boy, I do miss some of those quirky things about Alaska!

Actually, the land is located 2 miles out from the community of Nikolaevsk, Alaska which is about 25 miles from Homer according to the realtor.
I used Homer since I thought that would be the closest well known town and 25 miles in AK is really 'just down the road a piece'

I'm not familiar with that particular community, but I'm assuming it's somewhere between Kenai/Soldotna and Homer, which would be a good area. Each of those communities has something different so you'd be within easy access to them all. And not TOO far from what I think is the most beautiful city (on a clear day) in Alaska - Seward.

[Arkie1]

I just did the Mapquest from my home to the potential homestead property!

It will be quite a journey! :baby04:

Total Est. Time: 77 hours, 23 minutes
Total Est. Distance: 4237.69 miles

[emulkahi1]

Gosh, it is so funny to find this thread here. My DH is actually IN the Homer/Soldotna area today, doing some work at the local hospital (repairs lab equipment, like microscopes).

We currently live in a small town in rural MT, but we live right off Main St, in the commercial district. Therefore, we have just an itsy bitsy plot of land next to our building. I do grow some veggies there, but I can't help but wish for peace and quiet, MOISTURE and the space to have a larger garden. We do so much work in AK, that the idea of moving there comes up frequently...and hubby was just saying how very beautiful the Homer area really is.

I myself am also quite partial to Seward . Though, when we were there this past March, the wind nearly blew me into the Bay! I've never experienced anything like that before in my life...it was hard work just putting my foot down where I wanted to...the wind wanted to shove it sideways. Made staying upright on the ice quite interesting. The locals all seemed quite put out by the weather though, and they said that sort of wind isn't common. We deal w/ crazy wind here in central MT too....so it wouldn't be anything too different. There would just be the breathtaking views to make up for it :baby04:. I've thought it might be fun to work at the Sealife Center for a season or two...but I think I would have to live in a spot that wouldn't be in immediate danger if a tsunami were to roll through. The pictures from the last time that happened in that town are quite horrific. Something to keep in mind, I guess.....

Anyway, I look forward to keeping up with this thread. I am wishing you the best of luck with your move Arkie--how exciting !!!

Erin

[Arkie1]

Now that I see there's a number of people who have either lived, extensively visted or worked in the area I have a question.

Do you think $1700/acre is a reasonable price for treed land (selectively logged 20-22 yrs ago) in that area of AK? There's a small clearing big enough for a cabin and maybe a shed plus a garden spot.
Whatever cabin I built would be the only residence on over 480 acres. The parcel I'm interested in is 10 acres but there is a 40 acre also available just down the road. The nearest neighbor is approx 1 mile down the main road.

[Arkie1]

Here's some pictures