Splitting logs into posts

[Randy Rooster]

I have found a couple of nice 10 inch diameter cedar logs that would make dandy fence posts if I can split them up. Has anyone ever split an 8 foot log this big? Can you give me some pointers? Id like to turn each one into 4 posts.i

[oldmanriver]

You need about 3 wedges and a sledge hammer Start on one end as the split gets big enough add anothe wedge. Split it in half then quarters This can also be split smaller depends on what size post you want. Good luck, great workout..

[caberjim]

omr is right. I have split 18+" logs lengthwise rather easily with a couple of wedges and a heavy maul.

[vicker]

Yep to the above advice. If the log is bowed at all, make the first split with the bow up or down. I find a heavy splitting maul works best. You can give the log a couple good wacks with blade of the maul then start your 1'st wedge. Hammer it in good and follow with the second, then once you get the second one in good you should be able to move the 1'st on into the next space. You can make wedges out of wood too. Hickory is good.

[Jolly]

I like to start with a heavy maul and iron wedges, and then move to a sledge with white oak gluts to widen and finish my splits.

[FarmboyBill]

i split around 18in to 30in or so. I have 10 iron wedges, 2 sledges a splitting maul, 2 axs. I got all the wedges in case my boy came yo help. Good luck. anyway, i got one small wedge. i sharpened it and keep it sharp. I use it to open up my split on the end, then walk it back the length of the log with my other wedges. im afraid that you MIGHT stick 3 wedges sometimes. I have. The extras come in handy sometimes. i walk the split back placing wedges as i need them on top the log. sometimes ill turn the log over on its side and put in more wedges on the opposite end. sometimes ill use 2 together. this takes a bit of practice. but if successfull you have a good 4in wide split. I use 2 prybars to put in the split and X them apart. I also got an old HEAVY iron jack that ill put in a big split sometimes to open it even farther, all the time cuttingfthe slivers that run crosswise between the split on both sides, still holding the log together.

[Wildcrofthollow]

Well, I feel kinda outdated here. there has already been some great advice, so this is just what I do.

No sledgehammer, No splitting maul, I have been doing it the old fashioned way and it works great for me. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't go back to doing it with the above tools. (Not that they don't work admirably, I just dont like to hear the steel ringing)

I usually make my gluts out of dogwood or white oak, the dogwood lasts longer, but my word dogwood is hard even green. I make the gluts with green wood and then let them dry in a shady place. The longer they take to dry the better and stronger they will be with less checking. Make gluts with the angle not as thin as a steel wedge but not so wide that they jump out all the time. I cant tell you how many gluts I have, quite a few. I usually use the same three most all the time, one fatty one, a medium one and a small one to run with.

I start my splits almost invariably at the top of the log (the part that was up when the tree was standing). Trees grow like a cone so if you start at the top you will be splitting into greater mass and the split will tend to run straight down the middle. Starting at the bottom will sometimes cause the split to run out. I usually start my split with an axe that is not too sharp. I, too, have a sharpened steel wedge and often use it instead of the axe for this step.I take the time to tap the axe in all the way along the line I want to split on the end of the log. Dont bang it in far, just enough so that you can easily see the line. This starts the split much more easily and even tho you haven't put it in very far it will be the weakest place and the split will follow it across the end of the log. This will keep the lengthwise split straighter and cause you less grain tie-ups as the split progresses.(your tree may have other ideas tho) I use a hickory root maul to bang the axe in and start the split and I smack the axe in until the poll is flush with the end of the log.

I usually dont leapfrog my gluts, tho some do. I put the smallest glut in just past the bit of the axe (working in from the side of the log) This will release the axe. I put the med or fatty glut in behind the little glut (on top of where the axe was) and smack it in to release the little glut. then the little glut goes forward and then the bigger gluts follow each time.

Split halves, then quarters, then eighths depending on how small you need or can go.

Now, I have split an awful lot of rails like this, but just like any other skill, you would have to split thousands to get really good at this. And some logs can be mighty cantankerous. So ol' Abe Lincoln has no reason to fear from me.

I can tell you that if you are using Eastern red cedar your splits will come out mighty wobbly, which will make a nice rustic looking fence, but if you want your splits dead straight you probably want to look for a different post material. Atlantic white cedar, Post oak, and Black locust all split straighter. (well, some of the time)

sorry to be so long winded

[mihal]

Originally Posted by Randy Rooster

I have found a couple of nice 10 inch diameter cedar logs that would make dandy fence posts if I can split them up. Has anyone ever split an 8 foot log this big? Can you give me some pointers? Id like to turn each one into 4 posts.i

Disagreeing slightly with the others, consider using maybe two iron wedges and a handful of wood gluts (wood wedges). You use the iron wedges to make and extend the split and the wood wedges to hold it open. The advantage is safety. First, if one of the gluts flies out and hits you, it won't be as bad. Second, you can go in with an axe or hatchet to clean up fibers without worrying about hitting an iron wedge. Third, if you mistrike with a wood maul, you won't damage either the wood or yourself as badly. You can make wood gluts and a wood maul in a few minutes with practice. If you hit one with an axe and damage it, just make more.

If you want squared posts, you will want to get a froe (a specialized splitting knife/axe thing) from a local antique dealer. A froe is used for splitting boards and splitting off sapwood. It holds open the split and cuts at the same time as well as giving you some control over the direction of the split. After you have your log quartered with wedges, you use the froe to square it off and clean up your posts.

If I can get my camera recharged I may be able to put up some pictures of these tools. I am in the middle of splitting some black walnut we had to cull. (Well, supervising anyway, my joints won't take it right now.)

[Randy Rooster]

Thanks to everyone- some great advice as usual.