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  #1  
Old 12/14/05, 12:35 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
Posts: 8,749
Router choices??

..........I'm in need of Router recommendations as I need to replace several cabinet doors . I'd like to buy a router that will serve as a general purpose machine but haven't used one in years . Also , what grade of plywood should I use ? thanks , fordy...
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  #2  
Old 12/14/05, 01:03 PM
Rock On
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: upstate , ny
Posts: 166
I would recommend Linksys or d-link....

Oh wait...different router....j/k
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  #3  
Old 12/14/05, 01:33 PM
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 388
Well, It depends on how much you will be using it after your done with this project. Ryobi makes a great, affordable router. Porter Cable makes a fantastic router...but, quality costs money. Will you free hand route or will you have a router table?

Personally, I don't find much use for the plunge feature. A static base router serves all my needs. Pay attention to HP. Don't waste your money on an under powered tool. All you will get is heartache and headaches. Get as much horse power as you can afford.

Shane
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  #4  
Old 12/14/05, 01:36 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
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[QUOTE=speedfunk]I would recommend Linksys or d-link....

Oh wait...different router....j/k

..........Well , I had to thimk a Bit and and take another byte of my chicken swammich befo I "got it"...fordy...
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  #5  
Old 12/14/05, 01:44 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sylvar
Well, It depends on how much you will be using it after your done with this project. Ryobi makes a great, affordable router. Porter Cable makes a fantastic router...but, quality costs money. Will you free hand route or will you have a router table?

Personally, I don't find much use for the plunge feature. A static base router serves all my needs. Pay attention to HP. Don't waste your money on an under powered tool. All you will get is heartache and headaches. Get as much horse power as you can afford.

Shane
............Thanks Shane . I'm thinking a router table will be my most productive method . "Plunging" is not necessary for my needs currently . I will look at Porter cable as I have one of their Tiger Saws'\sawzall that has served me very well . Thanks for your help , fordy...
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  #6  
Old 12/14/05, 04:05 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: East Tenn.
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ROckler woodworking has a 2-1/4 hitachi on sale for 99.99 witha free sander. They are good tools..
http://www.rockler.com/index.cfm?cookietest=1



Also you can get 1-3/4 milwaukee off ebay for 60-100.00 all the time. Most are new. I have three of those. But I wouldn't hesitate to get the hitachi
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  #7  
Old 12/14/05, 05:00 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: cape cod,ma.
Posts: 75
i have a port a cable but if i where doin cab. doors i would buy a craftsman with the routor table it will make life a lot easyer and would be cheaper than getting just a port a cable (wait till u see a combo on sale)
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  #8  
Old 12/14/05, 05:37 PM
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Yup, a router would be much more enjoyable to use with a good router table.

cheers,
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  #9  
Old 12/14/05, 11:31 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by sylvar
Well, It depends on how much you will be using it after your done with this project. Ryobi makes a great, affordable router. Porter Cable makes a fantastic router...but, quality costs money. Will you free hand route or will you have a router table?

Personally, I don't find much use for the plunge feature. A static base router serves all my needs. Pay attention to HP. Don't waste your money on an under powered tool. All you will get is heartache and headaches. Get as much horse power as you can afford.

Shane
Ryobi makes junk!!! I know, i have a Ryobi router under my work bench unusable because collar wore out with very few hours on the tool, replaced it and the bits still don't spin true, so had to toss it. I do have a Ryobi chop saw that serves me well, but i will be buying a Porter Cable router when the time comes.

Put your money in a high quality tool, build your own router table, it is very easy to do!!
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  #10  
Old 12/15/05, 08:16 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
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......................I want to thank everyone for offering your suggestions . Ryobi is out so I'll be looking at Milwaukee , Porter-Cable , Mikita , Hitchai . I'm going to visit Lowes today and see if they carry Hitchai . Thanks , fordy...
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  #11  
Old 12/15/05, 08:17 AM
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 388
My experience with Ryobi was very different than yours. I bought a Ryobi router in 1995 because I needed one and Ryobi had the best value on the maket at the time. Not the cheapest, but the best for the money. It saw moderate to heavy usage for 8 years and my only complaints were that it was loud and it was just a tad under powered when doing aggressive cuts in hard stock. I'd still be using that one today if someone hadn't stolen it.

I always tell folks to buy the best tools they can afford, but some times you can't always have a dream work shop. When that is the case look for the best value in the tools that you do buy.

Shane
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  #12  
Old 12/15/05, 08:47 AM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
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I would still be using mine also if it wern't for that little problem of the bits not running true The motor in it was/is fine, the plunge feature was only uselful for one project otherwise it caused more problems than it solved. You can get a Portor Cable PC690 for about 30-40 $$'s more than the Ryobi and every accessory known to man is made to work with it What I also like about the Portor Cable (and I think a couple of the other brands mentioned) is that you can buy an plunge base to go with it, so you get the best of both worlds.
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  #13  
Old 12/15/05, 09:32 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Carthage, Texas
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If you're going to be getting a new one, I'd recommend one that'll take 1/2" shanks....some of the larger router bits have 1/2" shanks...

My poor ol router doesn't have the larger shank size...found this out, after buying some expensive cabinet router bits...
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  #14  
Old 12/15/05, 09:34 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 280
Can't add to the router brand suggestions, but I will say two words -- carbide bits.

Oh and a few more words. Get enough horsepower to run bigger sized bits if you need to used them.
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  #15  
Old 12/15/05, 11:08 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,240
I have the porter cable great machine came as a kit with two bases a plunge and a fixed, a dewalt, both take both 1/4 and 1/2 bits, a old commercial Black and decker, very similar to the dewalt but only 1/4 bits,

I gave the crappy sears thing away to some one who was desperate, for a piece of junk, (it had horse power but the shank was less than 1/2" and would only take 1/4 bits it was bulky and base was hard to adjust, and the base plate was stupid in design and would catch on things as it had three fingers that held the collars,

also have porter cable trim router, it only takes 1/4" bits,
the trim router are great for much more than just laminate counter tops, there a great tool for many other routing jobs, light small, and good power, with smaller bits,

the porter cable and the dewalt and B&d all take the porter cable collars,

you can buy cheap and it will probably get you buy but if you want some thing that will last and be worth something in a few years buy a good unit,

~~~~~~~~~~~~

as far as ply wood goes find some thing that has a number of plys, and is not filled with voids, many times the "hard wood" plywood is much better than the fir ply wood,

in our area there is a ply wood sold called "super ply" it is not really cabinet ply, in the since that it has a generic hard wood top veiner, on it, but it has water proof glue, and a good number of plys, (varies as to thickness) and there are not voids in the plys,

for doors the MDF core can make a nice door, as the core will take a nice stain,

http://home.att.net/~waterfront-wood...es/Plywood.htm

http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...ges/h00016.asp

stay away from particle board crap,

~~~~~~~~

but the truth of the matter is plywoods really do not machine well. you can do it but splintering and chipping is not uncommon,

some times you can minimize the chipping by "routing backward IN sted of pushing against the force of the bit, pull it with control and it will cut into its self and not be pulling on the fragile grains of the wood,
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