Chainsaw curves when cutting

canfossi · #1 11/26/05, 04:22 PM

My husky chainsaw hasn't been cutting straight lately. When I cut through wood is curves to one side a bit. I am holding the saw straight, the chain is pretty sharp and the bar is straight as far as I can see. Any suggestions? Hope you can help, thanks Chris

TxCloverAngel · #2 11/26/05, 04:39 PM

hubby says get a new bar & chain. lol why? he said cause they arent working right! lol geesh men lol Good Luck

norris · #3 11/26/05, 04:41 PM

Just getting your chain sharpened professionally will make a world of difference. The bar is probably OK. That's why I quit sharpening my own chains, I'm no good at it.

TnAndy · #4 11/26/05, 04:46 PM

The cutters on one side are sharpened differently ( either the angle or the amount of 'sharpness', or even the length of the tooth ) than the other side.....hence it leads to one side.

If you hand file, you need a jig to help you hold the angle correctly, and make sure you have each tooth close to the same length.

Probably the best thing to do at this point is take to to a place that does a machine sharpening, as this will get all the teeth back to the same length and angle. I don't like to use them because I know HOW to sharpen, and they remove way too much tooth for my money.....couple grinds and most times the chain is gone.

Best thing to do when hand sharpening is touch up the teeth with each tank of gas....way eaiser to KEEP a chain sharp than bring it back from the condition yours is in.

ace admirer · #5 11/26/05, 04:46 PM

Yeah, new bar is the sure thing...but make sure the angle you are sharpening the chain is constant left and right..its best to have it sharpened on a machine if you are unsure of that....then while chain if off bar. look at the bar itself.. the shoulders to the left and right of the chain groove should be level with each other and show no unusual wear...if not even or shows a wear groove, take a flat file and dress the length of the bar. both side while you are at it. if after all that,,the groove itself could be worn and not supplying good support..no easy fit for that...except the new bar deal.

Evan Fryman · #6 11/26/05, 04:48 PM

Get a 12 volt Sharpening kit , so you can do it rite every time, Or
that little Chop saw looking thing !!!!
The chop saw one is what the pros use, Makes it Quick and Accurate
ever time !!

agmantoo · #7 11/26/05, 05:07 PM

Ditto what TnAndy said. From the operators view if the cut is ) then the left side of the chain has a problem and obviously if like this ( then it is the right side that is dull or improper.

LittleJohn · #8 11/26/05, 05:33 PM

Well obviously the chain is sharper on one side than the other. Usualy means you hit a rock/gravel or a wire be very carful where you cut if I'm cutting close to the ground I always feel for rocks first. As others stated it could be the way you sharpen it I always count strokes when sharpening to get them all the same. Also need to keep the same angle on both sides not as easy as it sounds when changeing sides. Like the others said if it gets bad take it to a pro to sharpen. You might even get someone to show you how if your lucky.

Iddee · #9 11/26/05, 05:46 PM

It looks to me like everyone is making a mountain out of a molehill.
If you look at the cutting teeth, you will see they alternate, one on the left, one on the right. If it is cutting to the right, file one stroke only on each tooth on the left. Try it. It will then cut less to the right than before. If it needs it, give it one more stroke of the file on each left tooth. It won't take long to get it cutting straight again. If cutting to the left, do the opposite.

horselogger · #10 11/26/05, 05:48 PM

find a professional to teach you to mproperly sharpen...it isn't rocket science...notice my name...I am a sawyer.

Hoop · #11 11/26/05, 07:01 PM

Well put horselogger

The first thing to do is see if the chain is sharp. If you are unable to hand file it, then you'll have to get one of those machine type filing things. Of course, those only get the chain about 1/2 as sharp as a good hand filing does.

If, after filing, it still cuts to one side, it means your bar is slopped out. If you have a bar rail tightener, give it a few runs. Otherwise, replace your bar. If it still cuts to one side, replace your chain as well.

This is a common malady and its happened to me often. Particularly when cutting "softer" woods in summer.

huisjen · #12 11/26/05, 08:37 PM

I believe the problem is not in how sharp the teeth are, but how deeply they cut. I've had a similar problem at times, and it's always shown up after I've touched up the rakers. I find them much more touchy about how much is enough than the teeth are too, so if you find one side has been filed a little too much, it may take several sharpenings before you wear the teeth down enough to match them and get the chain to really cut right.

Dan

bill not in oh · #13 11/26/05, 09:24 PM

My saw was pulling to the left when I was cutting - took the chain to the shop, the next morning and six bucks later I was cutting really straight and fast...

Hoop (or anyone else) why particularly soft woods and why during the summer?

And do soft woods dull a chain faster than hard woods?

woodspirit · #14 11/27/05, 12:59 AM

I sharpen mine pretty much everytime it runs out of gas. Sometimes I hit it with a file, sometimes with mechanical sharpener. About every ten times I take it to get done at a Stihl place. You'll spend more on bars and gas and fatigue with a dull blade. Just plain dangerous.

HermitJohn · #15 11/27/05, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evan Fryman

Get a 12 volt Sharpening kit , so you can do it rite every time, Or
that little Chop saw looking thing !!!!
The chop saw one is what the pros use, Makes it Quick and Accurate
ever time !!

The bench mounted "chop saw" type sharpener is my preference too. You get a very even sharpening and unlike the high school kid in the hardware store, you dont need to take off much metal, just set it to barely bump the cutting surface. And if one tooth gets damaged, dont grind all other teeth down to match it. You will waste lot of your chain's life. Just ignore the damaged tooth and sharpen as normal and then sharpen damaged tooth separately. I got an Oregon bench type sharpener from place closing out on them some years ago. They are rather pricey now (over $300) and if I were buying such now, would look hard at one of the China made ones for under $50 off ebay.

I like my present system of a bench sharpener with couple spare chains, but you can of course get bar mounted jig to let you use regular file out in woods. Those dremel style sharpeners require great care not to burn the metal. I personally dont like them. Free hand with file is pretty much only for those who use saw regularly year round and thus are well practised or else have a very good eye. I can sharpen a chain with a file but get lot more life out of a chain with the bench mounted "chop saw" style sharpener. With prices they want for chains anymore, you will pay for such a sharpener quickly and the lack of frustration is priceless.