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  #21  
Old 05/20/13, 11:41 AM
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Ah yes, Coggin... here you are required to have it, even if your horse never leaves your farm. And I have been told, you are supposed to carry a copy around with you.
Like... okkk....

Where I lived in Oregon... it wasn't an issue.
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  #22  
Old 05/20/13, 11:44 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New York
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Originally Posted by Joshie View Post
My expenses aren't as high as some others. We have ten acres in hay. Our neighbor puts it up for us in exchange for half. We use $15 wormer twice a year and $7 wormer the other two times. The farrier comes out about every eight weeks. That costs $40 for each horse. We feed only hay in the winter; they eat grass in the summer.
But don't pretend those aren't expenses. If you didn't OWN the land already, what would it cost you to buy 10 acres and plow, disc and plant it for hay, then get someone to hay it for you?

I can tell you that around here, buying, planting and haying a 10 acre hay field would be equivalent of boarding for life. Even if property is VERY inexpensive - let's say $1000 per acres - you are talking about $10,000 just for the property. That's a couple of years of boarding costs covered.

I think the OP doesn't already have a farm, so all of this is an expense. Obviously as farm owners, we are not going to talk the OP out of buying a farm, but make sure you understand the true costs. For example, you might be able to buy a great 3-5 acre farm with a great house and set up for goats and chickens, but not horses (no barn, no fencing, maybe no pasture). If it costs $50,000 more to buy a similar property with a barn and pasture that is suitable for horses - is that a good deal? (Well, maybe not, because if it costs $5000/year to board your horse, it will take 10 years to realize any savings, and that is before you spend a penny on a tractor, riding area, buckets, hoses, etc.)

But, if you really want to buy a horse farm, then you should do it. Just be careful not to do it thinking you will save money without doing the math.
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  #23  
Old 05/20/13, 12:19 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Michigan
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If you need to purchase hay, the prices, quality of the hay, can vary greatly. Last year there were slim pickings in our area for ANY hay because of the drought. Hay we normally get for $3-4 a small bale, good quality, shot up in price to $6-$8 the bale. Tripled our hay cost for winter. Cost of corn for grain also went up quite a bit, lots of lost corn that didn't grow with no rain. We don't feed a lot of grain, but the mix we have made up contains a LOT of corn, so that was more expense than in most years.

Horses that are well cared for are not a cheap hobby. Certainly in the "luxury" category for your fun-spending income. Even your initial price to purchase the animal, is probably going to be on the higher side, if you want a horse who is well-trained, cooperative, easy to live with. There are a LOT of ill-trained, badly built, poorly minded animals for cheap prices, and of course the BEAUTIFUL and NOT-HANDLED at all, animals for much less money. But for a beginner? You are LOTS better off to spend the money and get a horse you can enjoy having and using. Learning to train a horse should not mean YOU AND HORSE are both beginners!

I really don't track our horse expenses, because Husband says he doesn't WANT TO KNOW how much they cost! Hay costs last year were a killer. We needed 800 bales for 6 horses, luckily they are easy keepers. We ended up with a bit extra hay because we lost a horse in a pasture accident before we started feeding hay in Oct. We had alternative forage foods we could have gone to if we needed it or ran out of hay. Just would have cost more, but spread cost out, buying as needed. Not the lump payment of hay bales purchased to put in the barn. We use wood fiber for bedding, find it to be effective in keeping stalls dry, helpful spread on the fields as extra organic matter to help the soil. That is delivered in a truckload, about every 3 1/2 months, horses are stalled daily, which many folks don't do. Keeps our horses friendly and accepting with daily handling, daily stall time, unlike a lot of horses left outside 24/7 who revert to being feral. They get to make ALL their own choices, don't want to follow directions from people when you bring them in. We feel the handling time is REALLY important on having nice horses that work well for you. Yes all that handling DOES add to the length of your days doing chores, but a good trade-off for having really nice horses to use. They WILLINGLY follow directions, accept that PEOPLE are in charge while horse is getting used.

Brushes, saddle and bridle, are usually a one-time expense. Same with water tanks, stall building material, or the shed outside. We also give our own vaccinations, worming, have the Vet or Dentist in yearly to check teeth. With the way we use horses, they have no excuses to misbehave if teeth are kept checked. Teeth DO cause problems in many cases, affect them from health in chewing, to disobedience to reins in using him if he is hurting in the mouth.

Husband is a full-time Farrier, so he keeps them trimmed or shod according to how they are being used. Most wear shoes full time, year around because they get worked all year and he wants them having good grip with their hooves. He would be EXPENSIVE if I had to hire him, since he is so experienced and can do any kind of shoeing needed. But having a horse who is ready-to-go work anytime you get him out is worthwhile to owner too, so worth paying for that kind of Farrier work. Horse can get shoes on and go work as quick as the last hoof goes down, same with a trim, when husband is done working on it. You CAN USE horse every day of the 6-week cycle of shoes or trims. Not all Farriers let you do that, so cheaper cost is no savings. You can learn to do your own hooves, but most folks are unwilling to do the work needed or as often as needed. I sure can't see doing a trim on a barefoot horse every two weeks!! Do a good trim to start, then do another good trim again in 6 weeks. But I am old-school Farrier educated, so would be unwilling to do that much extra work. When I trimmed and shod my own horses, they were sound to go right after a trim or shoeing, good for the 6 weeks until next trim or shoes. They were always sound and ready to go, and got used hard on the gravel roads, trail rides we were always going on. Put a LOT of miles on those animals, no lame ones.

Do you have a good horse Vet around you? You need to make their acquaintance, use them where possible to "have a good working relationship" with them for when you NEED them to come out. Our horses are pretty healthy, usually only see the Vet for Coggins blood samples every year. They have come when we have a new foal, checked everyone over, but we only breed a mare every 5-6 years. However when our horse got injured, the Vet was there within an hour to put her down. Same thing when one got Potomac, she was right out there and giving meds on SUNDAY, then every day for 4 more days, pulled the horse thru it. No putting us off, they KNEW us, we are on the CUSTOMER list. Some folks have no relationship with the local Vet, who doesn't even know how to find them if they would get called. Not a good idea.

Asking costs of your local horse friends is a good idea, they are working in your area, similar situations. I save a great deal grazing our horses, but I work to keep the fields producing, so probably a trade-off in fuel, seed costs if you have to feed hay. My expensive, paid-to-have-installed fence will probably cost way more, than running a couple strands of electric rope, tape or wire you put in yourself. However I have gotten MANY years of use from it, horses HAVE stayed home, not gotten hurt on it unless they did it to themselves. Sold those stupid ones!! And all the wounds healed well, no loss-of-use with any fence injuries.

Secondary idea, is leasing a horse to use. You don't spend a purchase price, but get to keep and use horse. See how things work out having horse around. If it isn't fun, takes up too much time, you can send horse back. If you really like him, they might sell him too you, or you can go shopping for a horse to keep of your own. Leasing seems to be more common these days, with some very nice animals available. READ the contract for details, know what you are getting into before signing. Horse needs to be happy alone, you only talked about having one. Also know that there are MANY horses around, don't be discouraged if first animal doesn't suit you, sometimes they don't, so you look at others. Having a qualified trainer assist in picking one suitable could be helpful, though expect to pay for their time with you. We often THINK we are better horse folks than we truly are, so we fool ourselves on what horse is suitable. I see that every time I offer a horse to sell. I SAY "needs an experienced rider, but kindly" so all the Beginners come. Horse is willing, but NEEDS directions from rider, Beginner is NOT SUITABLE for this horse. I end up pulling them off after a couple minutes, the rider hadn't told me the truth of their experience riding! I am telling them he is NOT going to suit them, GET OFF! Can't have them untraining him!

Keep us posted on your horse adventures! Congrats for starting with lessons, great idea.
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  #24  
Old 05/20/13, 12:25 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Illinois
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Offthegrid, you are absolutely correct. We live in a cruddy little dump of a house with 27 acres. My sister and her hubby just purchased a nice house (less than ten years old) for the same sort of price. They have five or so acres but it isn't set up for animals. We exchanged a nice house for acreage. Within the next few years we will probably exchange out acreage for a nice house. I am getting tire of a tiny house. When DD, who just finished her freshman year, graduates we will probably move. So, yes, we do pay much more than our outlay in order to have horses.

If possible, OP, if you want horses I would try to get more than five acres. With that little grazing, you will likely have to feed hay van in the summer.
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  #25  
Old 05/20/13, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshie View Post
Around here, at least, the bigger barn lessons aren't really lessons. My niece took lessons at one of them; they had her riding barrels at the end of eight weeks.

When DD took lessons with a horsey guy it took those same eight weeks for her to even get up in the saddle with a bridle. The first few lessons were on the ground, centered on reading body language, learning how to walk, and doing basic horse things. When she was finally allowed on the horse, it was bareback. Our teacher led the horse on the ground. DD (10) had to have "airplane arms" because he didn't want her to use a horn or hold on for balance. A Western saddle does not have a horn so a rider can balance or hold on. Anyway, after she had a good grasp on that she got in the saddle. After she got a good grasp on that she got reins but had to stay in the round pen.

I started my lessons both bareback and in the saddle. I learned a lot just watching DD's lessons. We spent a lot of time playing games like sword fighting with swim noodles. Games were a lot of fun plus they taught us a lot about how how horses deal with scary horse-eating swim noodles. Scary things will happen on the trail and it is important to know what to do. We learned more advanced things as time went on. My point in this long winded story is to say I think it is really important to go slowly.

I am of the opinion that it is a good idea to board for the first six to 12 months of horse ownership.
Joshie, Did you have to pay anything for your or your daughters lessons? My own experience is that most people don't want to pay for the time I spend teaching the fundamentals of horsemenship and think that time spent on groundwork etc. should come at my expense. I agree that the things you describe are essential and personally agree that many things should be taught before riding is introduced to the student. The problem I find is that most students aren't interested in doing (or paying for) the things that should be learned as a foundation of horsemanship. Actually, it is often a parent that is paying for a childs lessons and they are mostly interested in quick results in their childs riding lessons.

I much prefer to move slowly with my students, though I do usually get them on a horse the first lesson while I move them around on a lead line. This does give the student a chance work on balance and feel while not exposing my horses to the bad hands of beginners and allows the student the experience of riding without having to control the horses speed or direction. I'm glad you were willing to move slowly in your lessons and hope you appreciate the person that gave you a good introduction to horsemanship but I find myself wondering if this was a friend or a paid teacher.

Have fun, be safe

Jack
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  #26  
Old 05/20/13, 05:47 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Washington, USA
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I budget for hay and yearly repeating costs such as deworming and vaccinations. However, I have never really sat down and totaled all of our equine-related expenses. If I did, I would probably incur yet another expense.... a hospital visit due to a heart attack!
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  #27  
Old 05/20/13, 11:02 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Texas
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Never bumped into anyone down here that commented about how cheap horse ownership was....
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  #28  
Old 05/21/13, 05:19 AM
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Location: Now in Virginia
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Teeth floating, depends on the horse, but a yearly check should be done.
It can be spendy depending where you are.
I have paid upwards of $400.00 for just a float...
Had Stjarna done last year,,, in VA for $185.00... if I remember correctly.

Emergency fund... I used to have one in the tune of $6,000. Until I brought my last rescue home... Stjarna.
She had so many issues and even with me doing most of it, she wiped that fund out and I haven't been able to build it up again.

It would be good to have at least $3,000 in savings but at this point, there is no way for me to do so.

I find books do not really work for learning horses.
To add to your lessons, you could see about working part time at a boarding stable... that would let you know up close and personal, if you want the full time work of a horse at home.
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  #29  
Old 05/21/13, 10:28 AM
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Did anyone mention a tractor? It may not be an absolute necessity, but when you have any kind of acreage a tractor (IMHO) is essential - front end loader and mowing deck the very least of the requirements. That being said, I have an old 8N that I use to mow, but am working towards buying something with a front end loader for about million jobs I need it for on my small (14 acres) piece of land. If you don't own one, then renting one or hiring the work out needs to be factored into the cost.

I have often thought it would be soooooo much cheaper to board...........
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  #30  
Old 05/21/13, 10:52 AM
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I have read all the wisdom in the previous posts. Lots of good information.
But I remember when I had a horse at a boarding stable, a woman stopped and asked me how much it costs to keep a horse. In a split second the words came out of my mouth "As much as you have to spend."
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  #31  
Old 05/21/13, 11:19 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Washington, USA
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Sometimes in the winter I'd really love to board my horses. Just for three or four months out of the year. Just to have a little break. I have no tractor, so all manure and plant management is by hand. Our farm is small and hilly, so everything is more labor-intensive than it otherwise would need to be. We use goats to "mow" the plants that the horses won't/don't want to eat after they are done grazing a pasture.
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  #32  
Old 05/21/13, 03:31 PM
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here are my costs(Apha filly born April 14 2012)So no training yet but shes a BIG girl
-$30-40 barefoot cost, 40 when shes older he joked he was gunna raise it one the time she kicked him and i was mortified lol
-$40 a month for a bale of hay
-i think total for her ''goodies (molasses, sweet feed and her foal feed) its $30
-Vet cost me $80? i think and that was all the shots she needed for the year-not including farm call
She is on pasture all year and still needs hay, but my horse is on the fat side because shes spoiled as heck lol but during the spring/summer its only a flake a day to make sure she keeps weight. I did math and over the year its like $100 per month saying nothing goes wrong -for an adult horse this was before Ice was born. Be absolutly prepared to spend more.. ive dumped more money into my spoiled little brat than i care to say-apples, peeps, halters, leads, grooming supplies-god help me when i start ridding her lol
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  #33  
Old 05/21/13, 11:26 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by where I want to View Post
I have read all the wisdom in the previous posts. Lots of good information.
But I remember when I had a horse at a boarding stable, a woman stopped and asked me how much it costs to keep a horse. In a split second the words came out of my mouth "As much as you have to spend."
You are so right!

This post has made me think back to the early years and my first pony. Mom & dad warned me that they would not be forking over any money for the purchase or upkeep of a horse or pony. I was actually looking for a horse but went and looked at a pony and fell in love. I paid a hundred bucks for her. Owner said he'd throw in her saddle for $15.00 more. I was going to do without because I usually rode bareback anyway but mom insisted so I made her buy it. LOL

Every fall I hooked up our little yard wagon onto the lawn mower and combed the already picked corn fields for missed ears of corn. I had to gather enough for 2 ponies to last a year. My brother bought the hay because the other pony that I gathered for belonged to his kids (I was a late addition to family so all my siblings are quite a bit older).

Occasional babysitting jobs paid for her yearly worming...back then the vet came out once a year and tube wormed them and anything else I wanted to buy for her.

Her feet got trimmed by wearing them off from road riding and then I had a rasp to keep them smooth.

Sold her my JR. or SR. year in high school.

Advance to my mid 20's when I was out on my own and working. Not much spare money but I rented a place that had a couple of acres and my landlords were animals folks themselves so they didn't mind me putting up fence for a horse.

This mare cost me $500.00 and again I had nothing in the way of tack. A friend gave me a bridle for a horse warming gift and I did without a saddle for months until I traded my bicycle for one. Squeezed her feed, hay (got free hay when I could by people wanting old hay cleaned out of their barn to get ready for the new hay season) & farrier costs into my budget but not much left over if there had ever been a need for vet care. Paste wormers had come out by then and she was healthy, thank goodness. Eventually found an old 3/4 ton pickup I could buy. My landlords had an old 2 horse trailer that had been sitting for years. They sold it to me for a couple hundred. I hand sanded and painted it, floor was good, sides of it weren't, I screwed in 3/4 inch plywood and a friend welded some sheet metal on the outside for me, put good used tires on it. It sure wasn't pretty but it was serviceable.

Advance about 15 more years and married a man who also had horses. I didn't have kids and his were out on their own so finances were not much of a burden anymore. We won't talk about how much I spend on horse related stuff now.

So it's always boiled down to spending on them in relation to how much available money you have. You can bare bones it if you have to, although these days with advanced in farm machinery you're not going to find much corn left behind nor are you likely to find free hay.

(Sorry for being so long winded)
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  #34  
Old 05/22/13, 11:21 PM
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If you're tight for money shop specifically for easy keepers. We have 4 horses a thoroughbred, an arabian, a walker, and an American cream draft.

TB eats about 2 bags of feed a week. Arabian eats none unless in hard exercise. Walker eats 1 bag of feed a week. American Cream gets no grain except when pregnant to give her a supplement, the amount then is negligible. I've had other breeds, QH in particular varied hugely, some ate nothing and couldn't have grain and some stuffed themselves to the gill.

Hay, depending on how cold your winter is. I live in TN. If you have enough pasture often you don't need hay. If I feed round bales you can figure 1 bale per horse per month. Square bales I don't feed free choice and last about 1 per horse per week. Often I just don't feed it except on cold nights. Round bales run $35-45. Square run $2 for a mixed grass direct from farmer $5 for pure alfalfa from a store.

Farrier, all 4 are unshod. $30 per horse unshod, $45 per horse shod. Usually every 6 weeks, though it varies between 4-8 weeks depending on the ground.

Worming I use Ivermectin $10 each quarterly.

Teeth floating is best done by a veterinarian. Young horses need it done yearly, older (20+) would benefit from twice yearly but vets will make a recommendation on that. I don't list the cost separately because my vet does that to.

Vaccines. We get Equine 5 way, and West Nile and if they're traveling you should get strangles and have coggins pulled. These are yearly vaccines. I can't say how much it runs per horse exactly. My yearly vet bill was $500 for two horses but that was a $70 farm call, teeth floated, vaccines, coggins, and vaccines for both my dogs.

Emergency fund. I recommend around $2k. That's what a serious colic costs around here. That included emergency call and 5 days at the vets office with round the clock IVs.

Misc expenses. Some horses need blankets, if they do you can figure 1 per year.

Obviously I left out tack, barn, fencing.
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  #35  
Old 05/23/13, 10:50 AM
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I seriously appreciate everyone taking the time to respond. Thank you all so much!
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  #36  
Old 05/27/13, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offthegrid View Post
And that's just the horse on the receiving end of it.

My biggest fear WAS (until we got all new fencing) a break-out that caused a fatal car accident. Now that is a farm owner's worst nightmare.

Not only is the outcome simply horrific, but it could mean losing all your assets and/or having every insurance company drop you forever.

I won't actually tell you how much we have spent on fencing, because it will scare you. But it is a lot. However, I sleep at night.
Unless of course, you live in "open range" like I do. Then, not only am I not liable if my horse is struck and causes an accident, but I can recoup the cost of the horse from the motorist.
This worked against me a few years ago when a ranchers cattle got loose and came onto my land, spooking a 3 year old filly who was injured when she tried to jump out of her paddock. I incurred vet expenses, etc. and had no recourse. In open range, it's "fence unwanted animals out" and "drive at your own risk".
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