1990 Dodge D-350, 360 HP Engine Questions

Ken Scharabok · #1 09/27/05, 06:08 PM

I have about 90K on this. Two problems:

1. Overheating/using coolant. Used it to pull a cattle trailer with a semi-heavy load up to OH and had to put in 1-1 1/2 gallons of water when I stopped for gas. Ran about 3/4rds hot. On the way back I was much lighter and had to put in about the same amount on half-way fill-up. However, rest of way didn't use a noticeable amount. At that time it was raining, cooler and I was driving slower. After last fill up gauge ran about normal to just a tad hot. I cannot find a leak either by the water pump or anywhere on the radiator at pressure or when left to cool down over cardboad. Don't notice any steam from top of radiator. Could this be simply a bad radiator cap?

2. Engine (gas) has started to sound about like a diesel with valve tapping. Doesn't use significant oil and exhaust is clear. Valves thus appear to be good as far as seating for mileage. Could this just be worn out springs and/or lifters which wouldn't require pulling off the heads for an overhaul?

Please keep replies in Kitchen English. I am not a techie.

DrippingSprings · #2 09/27/05, 06:24 PM

leaking head gasket. be prepared as it may go completely at any moment with no warning.

DrippingSprings · #3 09/27/05, 06:25 PM

i would repalce the cap though just in case its not but a few bucks and worth a try first.

DrippingSprings · #4 09/27/05, 06:26 PM

i would repalce the cap though just in case its not but a few bucks and worth a try first. but will the valve rattle it really sounds like head gasket to me

Ken Scharabok · #5 09/27/05, 06:55 PM

Why would a head gasket leak rattle the valves? Even a pin hole leak would seem to use more than that amount of water in 200 or so miles. I see no white smoke or steam from exhaust pipe.

DrippingSprings · #6 09/27/05, 08:07 PM

water in the cylinders will impede proper combustion computer will often more than not compensate by adjusting timing etc etc and you have valve rattle.

**fordson major** · #7 09/27/05, 08:09 PM

probable bad rad cap if no liquid in the engine or exterior leaks . were you using the heater? this model had problems with the heater core. now you say its a 360 horse engine? what cubes ? what gear were you using !? may have overheated due to to high a gear. valve tapping is still an issue or did it go away when cold? may have been designed to run on higher octaine or leaded gas and does not have hardened valve facing needed for todays gas. that is a head fix. plugged or weak oil flow can also cause rattle . some rattle early on and go for years ,had a 73 dodge that rolled 150k before presenting a rod threw the side of the block , drove it the rest of the week (5 days) with the rod klicking in and out . put another engine in and only got 20k before the trany blew ,got mad and scrapped the truck! wish we still had it though same as our 92.

fordy · #8 09/27/05, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken Scharabok

I have about 90K on this. Two problems:

1. Overheating/using coolant. Used it to pull a cattle trailer with a semi-heavy load up to OH and had to put in 1-1 1/2 gallons of water when I stopped for gas. Ran about 3/4rds hot. On the way back I was much lighter and had to put in about the same amount on half-way fill-up. However, rest of way didn't use a noticeable amount. At that time it was raining, cooler and I was driving slower. After last fill up gauge ran about normal to just a tad hot. I cannot find a leak either by the water pump or anywhere on the radiator at pressure or when left to cool down over cardboad. Don't notice any steam from top of radiator. Could this be simply a bad radiator cap?

2. Engine (gas) has started to sound about like a diesel with valve tapping. Doesn't use significant oil and exhaust is clear. Valves thus appear to be good as far as seating for mileage. Could this just be worn out springs and/or lifters which wouldn't require pulling off the heads for an overhaul?

Please keep replies in Kitchen English. I am not a techie.

...........I think you meant to say.... a "360" cubic INCH engine......Dodge never put a 360 HP in a 1 ton truck to my knowledge .
...........Check This.....your water pump should have a Weep hole directly under the pulley shaft . When it starts leaking it's time for a new pump . This could cause the loss of coolant .
...........Also , you might want to take the radiator ,OUT and have it "rodded out" at a local shop . You could also have a mal functioning thermostat . And , the coolant passage ways in the block can become clogged over time and thus decrease the flow of coolant as well . The 77 , 400 cubic inch v8 in my 77 f250 are especially bad about this . fordy..

mightybooboo · #9 09/27/05, 09:09 PM

Big Block Dodges in Vans=HOT!(Van or truck?,Im not clear here)
Get a big Radiator overflow bottle.Consider replacing fan clutch if it has one.Rebuild the radiator.They even make 4 row radiators for these monsters.(Older Big Block engines they do)

Subaru actually uses a sealer to repair head gasket leaks and it works(Hard to believe)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=488157

A friend of ours used a sealer that cost a couple hundred bucks,maybe you can find it on google,on a 440,really worked too but follow the directions to a tee.

I know,you KNOW sealants dont work,but come to find out,the new ones nowadays do,if its approved by the engineers at Subaru of America,its the real deal.

Certainly google that option.

Hey,its worth the try if you arent ready to pull the heads.

BooBoo

mightybooboo · #10 09/27/05, 09:13 PM

Ken,consider an exhaust leak.Big block dodges can get one that sounds EXACTLY like a valve tick.Copper exhaust manifold gaskets work great for 1970s era dodge big blocks,like from Jegs/Summit Racing.Dont know the 90s engines though.
We are talkin 360 CI engine,right?
BooBoo

mightybooboo · #11 09/27/05, 09:21 PM

Wrong year for this post

BooBoo

Ken Scharabok · #12 09/28/05, 01:13 AM

Yes, 360 ci. It is a flatbed truck. Started life as a car hauler and repossessed. I bought cab and chassie, had 4' of the chassie taken out and the flatbed put on.

The valve ticking starts immediately when turned on. Noticed it a couple of months ago and it seems to be getting progressively worse.

Have always used regular unleaded.

Oil pressure has always been excellent (almost high). I have a separate guage. Starts out at 80 or so and doesn't go below about 40-50 when hot.

I looked at water pump from both above and below and don't see any evidence of seepage or weepage.

If I put on a new cap and then don't loose coolant does that eliminate gasket leak?

If it is worn out springs and/or lifters is that repairable without pulling the heads?

Could it be a timing problem?

fordy · #13 09/28/05, 01:42 AM

...............ken , the engine has to have atleast 10 psi of oil pressure or the hydraulic lifters ...Will NOT PumpUP . .
...............It very well maybe that , the engine has ALOT more miles than shown on the odometer , i.e. it has been turned back .
...............iF , the timing is set wrong the engine can run TOO lean which will cause it to overheat .
...............the cam can have a flat lobe , which will cause the lifter to malfunction . the lifters can probably be replaced by removing the Rockerarm assembly , then using one of those retrieval magnets and pulling them out thru the pushrod hole . If they won't comeout that way you can probably remove the intake manifold . You should beable to buy a new cam and lifters for 150 or so . Might want to have your mechanic replace both .
...............A bad oil pump or an oil pump with a suction screen that is clogged up will NOT pump enough oil pressure to pump UP the lifters .
..............fordy...

Ken Scharabok · #14 09/28/05, 06:14 AM

Fordy:

Is there the possibility the oil pressure is high because the line is restricted? As noted when I start the engine it goes to about 80 and then comes down to 40-50 as the engine heat up. Ran it low on oil a couple of months ago and it did drop down to teens when I stopped, which seems to imply it is working properly.

The truck (car hauler) was originally titled to a used car lot in KY. Bought it 2-3 years old and it was in almost like-new condition. I think the original miles were correct. Odometer and speedometer died about two years ago. Had 70K something then and I don't think I put on all that many miles since as it is predominately a farm truck. I just change oil in it at the same time I do my Ford Ranger.

On sealer, there is a new type (well, new to me) which works in water rather than anti-freeze. Some type of suspended sand crystals. Leaks show up as white residue. Worked to seal the block in an older model Ford 4000 with freeze damage. White residue make the leaks very easy to see.

Taking truck in to mechanic later today to see about getting on his schedule. He is very slow, but does excellent work at a good price.

fordy · #15 09/28/05, 07:46 AM

..................The oil pump is most likely pumping with sufficient pressure . You might want to consider having the mechanic pull the pan and installing a new oil pump . I'm a firm believer in Pre-empting mechanical breakdowns . In other words , I'd probly opt to have the mechanic install new cam and lifters , oil pump , water pump and timing set . The mfgers . use to install metal timing gears with nylon teeth and they will wearout and "jump time" which really destroy an engine so i'd just have him install a new , ALL metal timing set with a double row chain and water pump while he is in there . You have to remove the water pump to get to the timing gears , and also the cam is stareing him in the face when you get into the timing gears . Might as well do it "right' while he has it at the garage . fordy...

Beeman · #16 09/28/05, 08:21 AM

I don't know your abilities but here are some suggestions.

Is there any chance water ids getting into oil and diluting it causing ticking? Is oil milky looking at all? Let the truck sit for a day or 2 and remove the oil drain plug. Water will sink to the bottom and when the plug is removed you would get the water.
Can you remove the spark plugs? If you can look carefully at the tips. If you have an exremely clean looking plug it is a sign of a head gasket leak as the plug is being steam cleaned.
Can you remove the belts? Remove all belts from the water pump, fill the rad. to the top. Observe the water in the rad. neck while cranking the engine. If the water moves up and down it's a sign of a head gasket. If either one of these tests lead you to believe it is a head gasket then try this.
Can you remove the thermostat? With the belts off and the thermostat and housing removed fill the engine with water thru the therm opening. Start the engine and watch the water. Bubbles in the water will indicate a bad head gasket. If you observe closely in clear water you can actually see which side head gasket is sending the bubbles.

Ken Scharabok · #17 09/28/05, 11:12 AM

Stopped by mechanic. He said right off it sounded like an exhaust leak. He will start there (next Monday) and see if that stops ticking. Said the engine sounded fairly normal otherwise.

Purchased new radiator cap also.

Thank you for advice.

mightybooboo · #18 09/28/05, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken Scharabok

Stopped by mechanic. He said right off it sounded like an exhaust leak. Thank you for advice.

Copper racing gasket will compensate for warped exhaust manifold,you did say you overheated?Dodges are FAMOUS for that exhaust manifold warping,always an issue on the Motorhome boards.
Ive got em on my 440,they are nice.
One link,there are others,I forgot the brand I used.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

BooBoo

Ken Scharabok · #19 09/29/05, 08:47 AM

Yeah - I have cooked this engine a couple of times when the water pump went. A belt-driven hydraulic pump for the round hay bale lifting arms was added to the engine. Pull from double belts caused the water pumps to go out after about a year. Local mechanic then put a different fan assembly on it which has since solved the problem (at least it is still the same last water pump).

Sounding more and more like one or two warped exhaust manifolds.

Put a new cap on radiator but likely won't be able to tell anything until after the exhaust work.

Thermostat valve seems to work fine. Water temp. goes up to mid-range, then drops when it kicks in a couple of times.

No water in oil. No steam from exhaust pipe. Thus, really don't think it is a water leak.

If warped manifolds cause the engine to run hotter than normal, which caused radiator cap venting, then fixing one may solve other.

I'll tell the mechanic about the copper racing gaskets option. He is a good, ole boy who has worked on vehicles for many years. Has one of the older garages in two, but has stopped selling gas - doing repairs only now. Said the employee cost to man the pumps at up almost all of his gas markup.

Hip_Shot_Hanna · #20 09/29/05, 09:20 AM

Just a thought
Take a look at the radiator , see if its covered in dead bugs ,
used to be a real problem in the days of locusts and grass hopper years