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09/17/05, 06:32 PM
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In Remembrance
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: In beautiful downtown Sticks, near Belleview, Fl.
Posts: 7,102
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78' Ford dies on the way home
Acted like a vapor lock, let it cool for about 20, started right up and ran about 60 seconds before it had to be twisted into a parking lot. Another 20 minutes, another 1000 feet. Older 302 with points, condenser, ect is the power plant, thinking fuel filters first, fuel pump second, coil failure next, condsensor next; agree - dis agree?
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09/17/05, 07:43 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ny
Posts: 425
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i vote on the coil breaking down..mink
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09/18/05, 06:01 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,504
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I vote Condenser , Coil , then fuil pump
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09/18/05, 06:49 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,692
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I had a '60 Chev half ton 235-I6 that would do this. Always the coil. Thing would just eat coils for some reason. Know as I replaced everything else the first time. Learned to carry an extra coil along.
Have also experienced this with a '47 CJ2A. Crack in distributor cap. Start cold, run a little bit, then die. Let it cool down and it would start again. Replaced cap and never had problem again.
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09/18/05, 09:43 AM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
Posts: 10,560
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Sounds to me as if the vent on the gas tank is clogged. The next time is stops open the gas cap slowly and listen to hear if there is a suction sound. Could also have a radiator cap on the gas tank instead of a gas cap, stranger things have happened!
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Agmantoo
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09/18/05, 12:05 PM
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In Remembrance
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: In beautiful downtown Sticks, near Belleview, Fl.
Posts: 7,102
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All better now, it was the screw in filter that mounts into the carb.
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09/18/05, 04:13 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,692
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I'd forgotten about those little devils. Ford had that tiny screw in filter and GM had the little mesh filter that fit into housing that screwed into carb. Used alone both are evil and a really stupid idea (too small for amount of fuel that goes thru them), but if you splice in a nice big inline filter (I like the see thru ones) ahead of it in the fuelline, then the little ones rarely ever cause a problem and sometimes keep some water out of carb that might get through the big filter. I'd rather keep the little filter as a secondary filter than have to open up a carb to get water out of the fuel bowl. Either way pays to keep spare fuel filter in glove box and make sure your gas tank has a useable drain plug on bottom. Few tanks do anymore. I dont use my Ford 3/4 ton very often so last time I had tank off, I screwed/epoxied a half inch pipe flange to lowest spot on tank and put a plug in it with antiseize on the threads. Learned value of this with old '72 Courier I used to have. It came from factory with drain plug. I got some watered gas at town once and wasnt going to get home until I saw plug, opened it to drain water, replaced plug and blew out the filter. Never had another problem though I put on new filter at first opportunity..
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"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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09/22/05, 11:04 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central idaho republic
Posts: 1,843
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shoot the other problem it could have been is rust in the fuel tank covering the suction port.... about the same length of time to get fuel going again... but those little filters get overlooked by lots of folks in routie maintainance
william
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09/22/05, 01:31 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 256
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OK I'm an idiot, but where is the fuel filter on the 78 ford? Also is it easier to replace the ignition or have a key made if the keys are long gone??
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09/22/05, 02:40 PM
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In Remembrance
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: In beautiful downtown Sticks, near Belleview, Fl.
Posts: 7,102
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The filter is located on the right front of the carb, its the last piece in the fuel line before the fuel enter the carb. Its a multi sized cylinder shape about the same diameter as a $.05 coin, with a barb nozzel that fits into the rubber fuel line, it unscrews for replacement.
The ignition switch's key is inserted into the slot, a tiny piece of wire or similar is inserted into the tiny hole at the 10 oclock position next to the slot, turn the assembly to the left until horizonal, the key core will then pull out. A collection of old Ford keys will eventually find one to fit, they were not very complex in that era. About one of every 15 or so will work.
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