Suggestions for a good all around homestead truck??

[Bellyman]

I am currently the owner of an '01 Ford F350 quad cab diesel dually 2X4. It's been a great vehicle for towing a large 5th wheel rv. But... I'm kinda thinking that it's not such a great truck for a small homestead and general getting around, trips to town, the occasional utility trailer pulling, that kind of thing.

If it were a 4X4, I might be a little more interested in keeping it but honestly, it's a pain because it's too wide and too long to be a good run around truck. It's also very front heavy and easy to get stuck if the ground is soft enough for those front wheels to sink in even a little bit.

And so it got me to wondering what might be a good truck for a small homestead. I can't afford new and would probably be able to pay what I could get for the old truck. I'm guessing that would be something between about $7500 and $10k.

If it was anything that actually had to do actual pulling or towing at some point, I was figuring that a 250/2500 sized truck would be a good idea as it's built a little heavier than a 150/1500. Before I had the F350, I had one of the small Ford Ranger (1989, I think) pickups. I liked that little truck quite a lot but it really wasn't all that capable of doing much towing or hauling.

I've always been a Ford guy but of late, I think I could be happy with a GM or a Dodge. I don't figure I'll be trying to stick with a diesel. The present F350 is a manual trans, and I can do that. But I get pretty tired of shifting and would really rather have an automatic.

So with that in mind, and an idea of the budget, I'm curious if any of you guys have any recommendations as to what might make for a good truck to have around the place. I know there are often years that are better and worse for all of the major brands, and some models that were less likely to break down or cause troubles.

I tend to keep vehicles for a long time. I've had the present F350 for about 8 years now. And as reluctant as I am to get rid of that ol' 7.3 diesel, I'm just not seeing it as being the best vehicle to have in years to come.

So I figured, I'd ask you all what you thought. There's no right or wrong answer. And I know everyone has their preferences. But I just have a hunch that you might be able to at least steer me away from some models/years that may have been problematic.

Thanks for the input!

[fordy]

.............All 3 have their good and bad points........Your current ride is a very desirable vehicle ! The six speed is FAR stronger than the 4R100 auto but I can well understand wanting to move to an auto . There is an intermediate step you could take by having a posi unit installed in your current truck..........this would give your truck much greater traction than an open rear end , as you currently have .
..............Personnally , I would be in the market for a single rear wheel 1-ton ! The SRW 1 ton has heavier springs than a 250 , everything else is the same . I drove a 1999 F250 for 10 years and wish I had never traded it off . The early model year Dodge auto's (1993-~1999) were weak compared to the 5 speeds . I purchased a new 1998 auto(my mistake) and it would start slipping when I had to climb a hill pulling my 16k tractor\gooseneck . In either 200 or 2001 Dodge installed a Heavy Duty 6 speed that was the Best manual trany then , currently available , in a light truck . It was discontinued at the end of the 2005 model year.......Reverse is all the way over and back on the right side . Dodge auto's were constantly being improved starting around the 2000 model year . My preference would be a 2002 to 2005 year model with the 5.9 diesel . They get tremendous fuel milage , like 18 to 25 or so . Try to find one that hasn't been chipped .
...............The 6.6 Duramax\Allison combo started in 2001........2006-2007 are the most desirable year models ! Allison was a 5 speed thru the 2005 year model , was increased to the six speed in 2006 . Plus , trany was improved as well . One note the early year MODELS , 2001 , 2002 HAD INJECTOR problems.......GM replaced them and gave extended warranties to 200k . THE gas 6.0 with a 4:10 axle ratio would make an excellent truck for your needs.........it pulls very strong and is bullet proof . Look at models 2002 and forward . , fordy

[Bellyman]

Thanks, Fordy!!

Ya know, I hadn't anticipated keeping a diesel but that Duramax / Allison is tempting. I know there are a LOT of people that are very happy with them in the rv world.

I would love an old 5.9 Cummins, especially if it was in a Ford. LOL!! Dodge is actually my least favorite of the big three when it comes to the body part of it. Very nice 6 speed manual, very nice diesel. I just wish I liked the truck that came around it a little better. If I could snap my fingers and build a truck, it would be a Ford F250 or F350 with a Cummins diesel and an Allision transmission. (Dream on, aye?!! LOL!!)

Seriously, thank you for the thoughts on various years! That is exactly the kind of info I was thinking of when I posted. I appreciate it.

[Shoden]

I'm currently on the search for a good homestead truck too, although I'm moving up from a beat up old half ton Dodge, so I'll share a bit of what I've learned so far.

At the top my my list are the 2009-2010 Ford Super Duties with the gas 5.4 V8 and 6.8 V10 engines. By 2009, the problems that the Triton series of engines had with spark plugs had been solved. Earlier years had issues with the spark plugs blowing out of the head due to insufficient threads, and then after an initial attempt at a fix in 2004, they had a tendency to get stuck and then break off when you tried to change them. There are fixes for both issues, so if you find an otherwise ideal truck from those years, it could still be an option. The post 2004 fix is easiest, since it just requires using a one piece spark plug instead of the two piece Motorcraft plug and then using anti-seize on the threads when you install it.

You mentioned wanting something in the 250/2500 size. With heavy duty trucks, the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks are the same size, with the main difference being the springs in the rear suspension. You can get a crew cab long bed 3/4 ton and it will be just as difficult to maneuver as a 1 ton crew cab long bed truck. Of course, you can have a 1 ton dually (as you well know) and it's even more of a beast. However, if you have a regular cab 1 ton with 8 foot bed and SRW, it's not going to be any worse to handle than a 3/4 or even 1/2 ton.

Going with a 4x4 is a good choice. I prefer the manual transfer lever over the electronic transfer switch in the higher end trucks. Of course, given that my budget is similar to yours, I'm looking at lower trim trucks that usually have the manual transfer lever anyway. Unfortunately, a lot of dealers seem to be idiots and if they see that manual transfer case lever, they list the truck as having a manual transmission, despite it only having two pedals and PRND21 on the dash. Since I'm looking for a manual transmission truck, that really aggravates me.

A limited slip or locking rear diff was a factory option on the Fords, and either one is better than the standard open diff. A really useful tool when shopping for a used Ford is this URL, that'll let you look up the original window sticker based on the VIN:

http://services.forddirect.fordvehic...icker.pdf?vin=

Just copy the VIN from the ad and add it to the end of that URL after the equal sign. If you're looking at 2008 or newer, it should have the info. Dodge has something similar, but its only good for new trucks, and Chevrolet doesn't want to share that info at all.

The number 2 truck on my list is the 2004-2005 Dodge Ram 2500 or 3500 with the 5.7 V8. Good looking, in my opinion, and a decent truck. I've read that the first year of the 5.7 (2003) had some issues, so I tend to skip that year in my searches. Manual transmissions with the 5.7 are hard to find, but are more common with the lower end 4.7 V8. The 2006-2009 models are good too, but I don't like the front end styling on those years. The 2010 and newer look great, and are really nice trucks, but are out of the price range unless they have really high miles or mechanical problems. I'm tempted to go with the Cummins 5.9 I6 diesel instead of a gas engine, but the weight issue that you mentioned with your diesel is an issue with this truck too. And the ground on my land gets really squishy this time of year.

The ideal truck for me would be a regular cab(or Super Cab if a Ford) with an 8 foot bed, 4x4 with LSD or locking rear diff, tow package, manual transmission, with a gas V8 or V10. I'd also like a snow plow, and lately I've been looking at trucks with dump beds too. I'm still torn on choosing between a SRW or DRW setup, since I do more hauling than towing, and being able to load up 2.5 tons of gravel or construction material in a DRW truck would be nice. A SRW truck would be limited to 1.5 tons or so, but even that's an improvement over the 1600 pounds or so my current half ton can do.

[Shoden]

Originally Posted by Bellyman

If I could snap my fingers and build a truck, it would be a Ford F250 or F350 with a Cummins diesel and an Allision transmission. (Dream on, aye?!! LOL!!)

Yep, that's my dream truck too, and I think most truck guys would agree.

[nosqrls]

I would look for a 3500/2500/350/250 shortbed ext. cab 2x4 4x4 diesel. still haul a load and pull your rv. I have 04 with the cummins and stepped up to 245 70 19.5 the soft ground is less of a issue next set will be 265 /70 19.5 I have 50,000 on the 245's about half done.

[sammyd]

any 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive truck would be a good thing to have. With the temps around here for a large part of the year, gas is my preference.
Have had a GMC and a Ford 3/4 ton 3 doors with the short 6' bed. They were/are both good trucks and got any job done I needed. The only problem with the GMC was that it was 2WD.

Have hauled some loads in a 1/2 ton that were just on the edge of dangerous but never really hauled anything that made me wish for a 1 ton.

[Bellyman]

Just to add a little to my situation, I'm really wanting to ditch the current rv so I wasn't thinking so much in terms of the new truck having to haul the rv although one of the more beefy 250/2500 sized trucks might get away with it. It would be overweight on the rear axle of the truck, almost guaranteed, but I might get away with it.

Most of the trailers I was thinking the next truck would have to pull would be utility and generally under 10k#, not the 14.6K# my current rv grosses. And if I think we want to go for another rv in the future, I'm not planning on one this big. It's been good for the time we've had it. But it's soon time to close this chapter of life.

Thanks again all of your for your thoughts!

[nosqrls]

If you look at the srw limit its the same rear as the drw for 1 tons. It is the tires that are the limiting factor 3000 lbs. per tire. I have seen people put p series tires on the back of a truck. 19.5 are 4200 - 4500 per tire. That is why ford went to 19.5 on their trucks. Michelin now makes super single for 19.5 now if a truck maker will use them. If you went with a newer ford 04 I think. you could goto a wider tire or h rating and keep your rv. and if your worried about sag goto salvage yard or ebay and pickup drw spring pack and it will carry the weight you need.

[Wis Bang 2]

Originally Posted by Shoden

A limited slip or locking rear diff was a factory option on the Fords, and either one is better than the standard open diff. A really useful tool when shopping for a used Ford is this URL, that'll let you look up the original window sticker based on the VIN:

http://services.forddirect.fordvehic...icker.pdf?vin=

Just copy the VIN from the ad and add it to the end of that URL after the equal sign. If you're looking at 2008 or newer, it should have the info. Dodge has something similar, but its only good for new trucks, and Chevrolet doesn't want to share that info at all.

GM's have a sticker on the inside of the Glove box door w/ the RPO codes. three letter/number combinations covering everything. The one for the Posi-trac is G80. You can find numerous RPO code de-coders on line. lists trim options, seat type, and much more.

[Shoden]

Originally Posted by Wis Bang 2

GM's have a sticker on the inside of the Glove box door w/ the RPO codes. three letter/number combinations covering everything. The one for the Posi-trac is G80. You can find numerous RPO code de-coders on line. lists trim options, seat type, and much more.

Thanks, good to know. Unfortunately, most online auto sellers (autotrader, cars.com, etc) just provide the VIN, and being able to look up the original window sticker is a good way to see if the truck has all the options I want before I drive a hundred miles or more and find out it isn't really what the seller advertised.