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09/21/13, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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Got a 454 Quadrajet crburator in my 1 ton
It wont take gas. I have a electric fuel pump on it. No go. I sprayed everything down I could find, pulling vacumn lines and spraying the ports inside, ect. The pump pumps plenty gas. I can pour gas in from the top and it fires right off. I replaced the filter inside the carb after spraying the heck outa everything I could get to in that block housing. Replaced it and banged against the side of the carb to try to loosin anything not loose in it. Its ran before. BUT its sat for over a year without running.
QUEASTION. This sounds like a racing carb. Do you think I could get anything out of it on CL, AND in looking for a carb for it, What should I look for.
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09/21/13, 04:49 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: NW OK
Posts: 3,464
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Find some one to rebuild your carb. Quadrash was the GM factory carb.
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09/21/13, 04:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,571
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I would pull the top off and check the float and needle and seat sounds like its stuck. And they dont bring alot of money its the standard carb. Called quadrajunk for a reason....lol
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09/21/13, 05:21 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,081
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done right, it would do just fine.
Spent more than enough time making them work.
All makers had their issues.
If you are getting fuel from the accelerator pump, then your needle valve is working like it should. The issue might be a fuel level that is low to prevent it from getting sucked up out of the jets. I have been able to back blow them enough to get them working if you use a can of air like you do for your computer.
If you used normal gas, it's a good chance that the fuel gummed things up REALLY good on you. Use carb cleaner and press the end of the sprayer tube that comes with them onto the jet nozzles in the venturi's. You might be able to get it cleaned out. If not, time to pull it, cook it in chemical cleaner and put it back together.
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09/21/13, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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Farmer. I don't know that im getting fuel from the foot feed. I know that the electric pump is pumping it up TO the carb. I know that if I pour gas down it it will start right up.. I cant, as yet, found anybody who wants to work on it.
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09/21/13, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,081
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when you work the throttle at the carb, do you hear or see it spray fuel into the carb throats? Go to full throttle and back.
That is the accelerator pump working.
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09/21/13, 07:47 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 115
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What year is the 1-ton?
If in the last era of carburetion, that Carb could have an anti dieseling solenoid on it. It would have wire leads going to it to turn on the fuel supply when the key is on. It could be stuck closed from sitting or have lost power and not be opening.
This solenoid doesn’t stop fuel from entering the bowl when turned off. It stops fuel from being passed by the jets and idle circuits so the engine wont keep running/diesel after the key has been turned off.
Just my two cents.
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09/21/13, 08:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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No Ive worked the foot fed lionkage and not noticed anything, but ill check it again. heck, Ive pumped iot 50 and 100 times at times before trying to start it.
Its an 82 GMC Serria
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09/21/13, 08:32 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,081
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I would start with pulling the fuel line at the filter in the carb.
Put a rubber hose on it and put the end in at least a 1 qt container
You should get at least 1 pt of fuel out when you crank it or if you have an electric pump in 30 seconds.
Also, pull your filter. May as well just replace it. Cheap enough to do. I always twisted the open to aee what the debris was. Found more than a couple bad fuel pumps that way.
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09/21/13, 09:51 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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I can get a pint of gas from the electric fuel pump in 30 secs easy. I replaced the filter in the carb and bought a new spring for behind the filter, which it didn't havew before.
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09/21/13, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,081
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and you do not have fuel spray from the throats when you snap the throttle at the carb?
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09/21/13, 09:57 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,081
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if you can get a long piece of wire. Fashion it into a hook so it looks like an "L" with about a 3/4" long tail.
CAREFULLY sneak that down into the float chamber on the carb. You should be able to then use it to wiggle the float and see if it's free or not. This will also jiggle the needle valve if it's gummed up as well.
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09/22/13, 07:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Monroe Ga
Posts: 182
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you need to pull the carb, disassemble and soak it in carb dip, then reassemble with a fresh kit. No getting around that if you let it set up for a year without running. the ethanol crap is like pouring sugar into a gas tank. it clogs up everything and becomes unusable in a very short time. I see it every day. Ive pulled the carbs twice on a long time project at work because of it. ( even with stabilizer I've found that small amounts of gas such as in a float bowl still cause issues.)
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09/22/13, 09:35 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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Ill try that Farmer. What size wire, Bailing wire or thinner??
Well If I cant find a mechanic that will look at it, im sure not going to mess with it. Ive never had a Ford 8N so Im not a mechanic lol
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09/22/13, 10:07 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,081
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I have some wire that I use for tying rebar I use.
Where are you located at? PM me if you want.
I git around ya know.....  independent owner operator. Never know where I will be next week.
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09/22/13, 03:51 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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Between Tulsa/Ok City
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09/22/13, 03:52 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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SO, what size wire is (Wire I use for tying rebar)?? Is it like fence wire thickness> or like wire on tags to tie them onto things. Or, as I said, Bailing wire??
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09/22/13, 04:42 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,081
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probably an 18 ga wire would be fine. Smaller than bailing wire.
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...photo_16.html#
If you look at that picture. There is a round hole that also has two straight parts on the sides. This is the part you are looking to put the wire into. All you want to do is see if the float will go up and down. Underneath it, is the end of the float. You want to be careful as it's a "foam" float and if you scratch the surface, you break the protective cover on it and it will soak up fuel and sink. Then if you ever get it running, it will flood out.
Looks like this:
____ ____
(____ O____)
OK a VERY rough image.
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09/22/13, 05:39 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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OK So the slightest movement inside, or the slightest resistance is all I need to feel. What if I don't feel it??
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09/22/13, 05:44 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,093
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I take it, the L angle in the end of the wire goes down the slot. Is it turned away from the center hole, or towards it, or does it make a difference. Also, does it make a difference which side of the hole the wire goes down?
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