old briggs engine has no spark

[fishhead]

I've been trying to get my old tiller running but it has no visible spark either with the spark plug or without the plug.

The flywheel was rusty so I sanded it with some 320 grit paper. I looked at the coil but it seemed clean enough. I reset the coil distance to the thickness of the sandpaper after the parts guy said to use a playing card.

Here's the questions.

1. Do coils go bad? Last year the spark was orange.

2. Do I have to pull the flywheel to replace the coil? It looked like a wire went under the flywheel.

3. Would it be possible to buy a new horizontal shaft engine and expect the mounting holes and shaft to line up?

Thanks.

[oneokie]

Originally Posted by fishhead

I've been trying to get my old tiller running but it has no visible spark either with the spark plug or without the plug.

The flywheel was rusty so I sanded it with some 320 grit paper. I looked at the coil but it seemed clean enough. I reset the coil distance to the thickness of the sandpaper after the parts guy said to use a playing card.

Here's the questions.

1. Do coils go bad? Last year the spark was orange.

2. Do I have to pull the flywheel to replace the coil? It looked like a wire went under the flywheel.

3. Would it be possible to buy a new horizontal shaft engine and expect the mounting holes and shaft to line up?

Thanks.

#1 Yes
#2 Yes, the small wire attached to the coil connects to the capacitor/condenser that is part of the points.
#3 Only thing is to closely match the HP rating of the new and old engines, and shaft diameters. Mounting hole patterns are based on engine HP ratings/size. Pretty much industry standard.

You could have a weak capacitor/condenser, or corroded points. The points gap could be incorrect. (they close over time due to wear)

[Nimrod]

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Harbor Freight has Chinese clones that may be as cheap as $100.

[fishhead]

Thanks. I'll take some measurements and see if I can find a replacement engine. The little that I use it the tiller should last for a long time.

[Sawmill Jim]

Hit up a lawn mower shop for the later model coil that don't need the points and condenser . I'v done it before .

[popscott]

I believe they also make a solid state gizmo that will slide right into your existing coil. It is just a plastic piece (with pickup inside) with a wire sticking out, you just slide it in and do away with the condensor. Ask your lawn mower shop if you have any questions....

[TNHermit]

You can hold the plug wire in one hand (bare wire) and turn the flywheel by hand and see if you feel anything. a tickle If you do then make sure the gap is correct at .010 -.012. between mag and flywheel. It could be a just a bad condenser too

[bikehealer1]

pull the flywheel, clean and regap or replace the points and condenser. Why get a new engine if your old one ran fine? Solid state coil packs work great also.

[alleyyooper]

I agree just pull the fly wheel with a puller, A B/S repair kit doesn't cost near the price of even a new HF engine. the kit will contain a set of points, a tiny feeler gage to adjust thew gap, a condenser and a new fly wheel key.

Al

[fishhead]

I ordered a 250 cc engine from Harbor Freight just in case. It was a 7 hp so the bolt holes probably won't line up but I figure I can just get a piece of plate steel and make one that will fit by drilling new holes and old holes. I will probably get the repair kit too. I think the rental place has flywheel pullers for rent.

[Rob30]

Sawmill Jim had the easiest and cheapest fix. Replace the coil with a new one that is off the same size engine with an electronic ignition. No modification needed, you do not have to pull the fly wheel. Just cut the wire that goes behind the flywheel. The gap is easily measure by using a standard business card.
The fix will cost you about $40 off ebay.

[foxtrapper]

Sandpaper or playing card, either will work.

From your description, you probably have a points set under the coil. Quite plausable that they are dirty and not making contact when closing. You can probably get the engine going with a wipe of those points contacts. But, you'll need to pull the flywheel to do this.

Replacement kit to eliminate the points would be worthwhile compared to the cost of a coil. Might even be less.

Coils do go bad, and while it's normally a rare thing, I've seen a rash of them this spring. No idea why.

[haypoint]

Sometimes the aluminum key that holds the flywheel onto the shaft gets damaged. A new key into the keyway is all that it needs to start. Always suspect that when you hit something and the engine stops and won't re-start.

[alleyyooper]

Those eltronic igition modules are not always the cats meow. First one in my Kohler MV16s lasted 23 years. Replaced in August 2012 $124,00 sat in storage Sept. 2012 to May 2013 and it is shot. New one yesterday $140.84.


Al

[Wis Bang 2]

Originally Posted by haypoint

Sometimes the aluminum key that holds the flywheel onto the shaft gets damaged. A new key into the keyway is all that it needs to start. Always suspect that when you hit something and the engine stops and won't re-start.

After cleaning the mag section of the flywheel, this is the next item to check. A slight deformity is enough to change the timing.

[fishhead]

Is it necessary to have a flywheel puller or can it be pried off using a couple of screw drivers?

[simi-steading]

The coil needs to be gaped at 10 thousands... 12 a most.

[oneokie]

It can be removed with 2 screw drivers if you have a third hand available to whack the top of the crankshaft with a softfaced hammer.

I use a cold chisel and a screw driver, wedge the cold chisel to the rear and side of the crankcase, place the screw driver at the front of the engine and apply pressure while hitting the end of the crankshaft.

[simi-steading]

I'd be real careful about using screwdrivers and popping the shaft. If it's been on there a long time, it can be stuck on pretty good.. I've seen a lot of mangled crank shafts, and cracked and broke flywheels..

Since you should go ahead and head to the small engine shop to buy points and condenser, you'd be better off to buy a Briggs flywheel puller and pull the flywheel the right way. It's a whole lot cheaper than something broke or damaged, or the time having to file and clean up the crank shaft... A puller is only a couple bucks.. I've got tree different sizes of them in my toolbox.

[alleyyooper]

Small fly wheel pullers don't cost all that much to buy. They are also easly made from a little bit of 1/2" flat stock.
Why take the chance of breaking the fly wheel?

Al