ford 5000 Hyd. Pressure failing - Homesteading Today
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  #1  
Old 01/28/13, 02:10 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: tn at last
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Unhappy ford 5000 Hyd. Pressure failing

Afternoon Ford 5000 1978 vintage or there abouts. The Hydrolics have always been slow I've had it 2 years. Put a pressure gauge on in 1500 gooing down to 1000 cold and1100 going down to 800 when warm. No external filter I changed the internal one already last year no change.
Is there anything else for me to look at.
SO what is your best guess?? Im afraid of a pump $500. Or are there other possibilities.
Thanks
Steve
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  #2  
Old 01/28/13, 03:37 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ohio
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ford tractor forum

you need a ford tractor forum,,,,,,i know a good one..........8n were easy to work,,,,,been a while but they were made,,so you could work on them.......
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  #3  
Old 01/28/13, 09:20 PM
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There is a pressure relief valve somewhere in the system... most tractors have them on or near the pump. It sounds like you have a problem either there or possibly a line leaking somewhere. I have found out the hard way that moisture will mix in hydraulic fluid and will freeze and bust lines or even housings where the fluid runs internally.
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  #4  
Old 01/28/13, 10:21 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: North East Texas
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Try the relief valve, it could be leaking. also what condition is the hydraulic fluid in? is it the right type?
You could also try the YT Ford form for more help.
Andrew
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  #5  
Old 01/29/13, 05:23 AM
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Many Ford tractor qusetions answered here.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=20


Al
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  #6  
Old 01/29/13, 08:42 AM
 
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tearing the relief valve apart today and thanks for the forum tip
Steve
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  #7  
Old 01/29/13, 10:38 AM
 
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StevO,

IMO is is unlikely to be the relief valve. Since the relief valve is holding at 1500 with cold hydraulic oil and dropping as the oil temp rises. You could verify that the spring in the relief valve has not broken. That spring is about the only thing to go wrong there. Are you positive that you have the correct oil in the hydraulic system? When you say the pressure drops as the oil warms have you any idea as to what the temp of the oil is reaching? Does the 5000 have an oil cooler at the radiator? If so, how much debris is built up around the cooling coils? Are there any unusual noise coming from within the tractor such as a squealing sound? A remote valve with the control lever in the wrong position will over heat the hydraulic oil and lower the pressure. A screen on the oil inlet to the pump can get a buildup of crude and starve the supply and create low pressure on some tractors. If the problem is with the pump I expect you could rebuild it. The 5000 series is a gear type pump isn't it?
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  #8  
Old 01/29/13, 02:09 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Afternoon Agman
The flow was slow when I bought it 2 years ago. I had the PTO brake come apart so I took the top off and reassembled it and changed the return filter, No change.
It is gear driven and per ford has a Alum. housing and a steel impeller. Hence their guess it is the pump and not rebuildable because the housing is gouged.
No new noises. I did not mention that the 3 PT will ossilate up and down while at a set level. Is this part of the same problem or leaking seals elsewhere?
THe only thing that I have not checked is to see if the intake screen is clogged. But if that was the case pressure should go up as the oil warms up I would think?
I tested the pressure cold on a 40 degree day and warm on a 50 degree day after running it for half an hour hauling a bale down to the girls. It was only 70 or so. Last Summer I used a no till and it got warm enough (temp was to hot for bare hands) that it would not raise the drill for travel. After sitting for half an hour I was able to raise it at a high RPM
In order to look at the relief valve I will need to slide the pump out a 1/4" for the nut to clear the casting. Great design.
To change the pump I will need to take the top off to remove the return filter and pipe and I could check the intake then.
Any more thoughts I will wait for your reply. I will need the tractor in 2 days for the next bale. At that time I could prestock so it could be down for a week
Thanks again
Steve
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  #9  
Old 01/29/13, 08:56 PM
 
Join Date: May 2003
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Your extended description of how the tractor hydraulics are functioning mirrors the same description I had in a smaller Ford. In my case the problem was a worn pump.

As for as the PTO shaft having excess movement that is not typical and indicates a bad bearing or a failure of the clearance of the
bearing being correct. The seal will not seat at the PTO with this situation.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
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Last edited by agmantoo; 01/29/13 at 09:00 PM.
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  #10  
Old 01/30/13, 04:20 AM
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My 5000 doesn't have a oil cooler at the radiator. There is a draft control knob on the right side (sitting in the seat) on the side of the trans houseing. Make sure it is in the proper postion.

Al
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  #11  
Old 01/31/13, 11:26 AM
 
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So a new pump it is.
Thanks for the lead on the pump Agman
Also I will confirm the draft control is is the correct position
Thanks again
Steve
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  #12  
Old 01/31/13, 07:05 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 588
never mind.... sounds like you have the answers. I'll check back tomorrow to see if there's more discussion, and take it to our systems and repair mechanic if necessary since I do the books in a hydraulics parts/repair/custom fab shop.

Last edited by SilverVista; 01/31/13 at 07:08 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01/31/13, 08:54 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Indiana, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveO View Post
So a new pump it is.
Thanks for the lead on the pump Agman
Also I will confirm the draft control is is the correct position
Thanks again
Steve
Do you have the ford repair manual, for the 5000?

I have the ones for the 4500 740 loader and 755 backhoe.

Their theory and troubleshooting for the entire hydraulics, is quite extensive, IMO.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Tractor...item5d3977aae5
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  #14  
Old 02/09/13, 07:31 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
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As an Update
New pump is in there were metal filings in the bottom of the pan. The oil was changed in the spring. The intake filter was gummed up with filings almost solid.
The pump did not come with gaskets so 10$ for a gasket and 38$ for the new filter it is not replacable but welded to the pickup pipe.
It works like it should in fact it works so good I broke a weld on the curl piston.
I also changed the brake boots there were 3 stuffed in one side and 2 on the other and one was just pushed in backwards.
Some peoples kids
Thanks for the help
Steve
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