Hooking up travel trailer to septic questions

Jan in CO · #1 12/21/12, 05:43 PM

If this is the wrong forum to post this question, Mods please move it. We're looking at connecting a travel trailer into our septic system for our daughter to live in. Is this doable without messing up the activity of our septic? I assume we'd need a special lid for the current septic tank to do this. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks

Beeman · #2 12/21/12, 07:05 PM

When I hooked my shop to the septic I just put a T in the line and ran it to ground level with a cap. If I have someone visit with a camper they just put their waste hose in the pipe after the cap is removed.

Harry Chickpea · #3 12/21/12, 08:32 PM

The dump of the black tank shouldn't be all the time unless you want a pyramid under the john. A scheduled opening of the valves once or twice a week can be less traumatic.

OkieDavid · #4 12/21/12, 08:33 PM

No problem as long as the existing septic system is designed for at least one more bathroom than you currently have. Like Beeman said, if the camper drain line won't reach an existing clean out that is located DOWNHILL from the camper, just install a T with a clean out and you are good to go. RV stores even sell a rubber seal to prevent/minimize sewer gasses from escaping.

rentaplumber · #5 12/22/12, 06:55 AM

Most septic tanks have a clean out at both ends on top and one in the center.
Dig up the end closest to the house,you should find a cover within a foot of the edge of the tank. This is a good time to consider having the tank pumped out. If you dig away from the tank twords the house from the cover you will run into the main from your house to the tank. anywhere along this pipe is ok to tie in a new branch. the pipe will most likely be 4" pvc. you want to install a wye not a tee. this will get the flow comming into the new pipe flowing in the right direction and avoid clogging the main line.
from the new wye you can run the pipe antwhere you want aslong as you maintain 1/8 to 1/4 " per foot of pitch up twords the camper.
Mine is just pointed straight up at the tank with a 45 elbow in the wye to get it straight and then a cap on top.
This also works as a nice cleanout outside if the tank ever get clogged.

Gianni · #6 12/22/12, 02:43 PM

If your drain field is large enough to handle the usage, you should tie into the one in front of the septic and bury a 4" line woth 1/4" slope per foot to the site where you want to put the trailer. Ideally this shouold not exceede 150'. Bury a water line 5' deep next to it ending in a bury type hydrant. Run conduit and a 30 amp breaker next to the water. A hose will freeze in Colorado run atop the ground. If just for a week or two you might get by with dumping the trailer hose into an open septic tank. Any longer and it ought to be done right

Jan in CO · #7 12/23/12, 10:18 PM

Thanks for the details! Just what we needed if it turns out she will be parked here for a few months. The trailer will need some work first, and all may change, but at least we'll know what to do and where to do it! Thanks so much!

fordy · #8 12/24/12, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry Chickpea

The dump of the black tank shouldn't be all the time unless you want a pyramid under the john. A scheduled opening of the valves once or twice a week can be less traumatic.

................Harry is exactly right! ALWAYS fill the commode half full of water when having a Bowel movement.........you'll fill up the holding tank quicker but the additional liquidity will ensure a complete transfer into the septic . Pull the handle on the value......Slowly.....and close it Slowly.........you should also lubricate the metal shaft while it is open as it will reduce the amount of force necessary when pulling OR pushing the handle ! You can easily pull the shaft out OF the flat blocking part of the valve.......then you'll have to replace the whole valve ! Not a fun activity during the winter . , fordy