what type of garage floor coating?

ihuntgsps · #1 07/25/12, 12:48 PM

I am building a 36' x 33' garage/workshop and am wondering what type of floor coating you people think would be best to use. I am in west central iowa so will be real hot in summer and real cold in winter. will be storing a skid loader and my truck plus mower/etc. in garage and typical shop tools.
suggestions???

agmantoo · #2 07/25/12, 02:30 PM

Do not paint the floor! From a concrete supply ask if they sell a clear sealer. The sealer is a product that will be absorbed into the pores of the concrete. Over time you may have to apply another coating but it will be soon. The only paint that will affix itself to the concrete is a two part epoxy and it will wear off with skid steer traffic. Use the sealer.

ihuntgsps · #3 07/25/12, 02:37 PM

do you happen to know if the sealer is best applied on new concrete or does it need time to cure/etc. prior to being sealed?

I would like to use the shop as soon as the construction is conmplete but want a long lasting floor too.

Cabin Fever · #4 07/25/12, 02:51 PM

If you plan to park vehicles with snow on them in the shed, I'd think twice about using any paint or sealer. I did this once and the melted snow pooled on the floor. Nearly broke my neck several times from slipping on the thin layer of water spread out over the glass-like floor finish.

haypoint · #5 07/25/12, 08:20 PM

You can seal the floor with a product that prevents oil from soaking in and marking up your new concrete, sort of like a Thompson Waterseal. Paint is hard to keep on. There is an epoxy floor covering that is great! I think you have to hire it done. Forms a plastic slightly textured surface that lasts a long time. Easy to keep clean, skid proof, looks nice. Sort of like a glossy bed liner surface.

Forlane · #6 07/25/12, 09:25 PM

We sell an epoxy floor covering for garage floors at Ace Hardware, probably expensive but does not require a professional to apply. As Cabin Fever said, be prepared for a slippery wet floor if you go that route.

agmantoo · #7 07/25/12, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ihuntgsps

do you happen to know if the sealer is best applied on new concrete or does it need time to cure/etc. prior to being sealed?

I would like to use the shop as soon as the construction is conmplete but want a long lasting floor too.

The sealer will be applied shortly after finishing the concrete. If you want to avoid bad oil stains you need to use a sealer and it will also avoid excess dust when sweeping. Since the product is absorbed the floor will not been excessively slick.

I do not recommend this but if the floor is coated with something like the epoxy you can distribute sand while the floor is uncured and you can create a surface that is more slip resistant than just the epoxy finish. A working shop floor will not hold up with any applied "fancy" finish. Been there and spent 10's of thousands of other peoples money trying to create a showplace. Dirt in equipment tires is very abrasive.

PS... you can apply the concrete sealant using a hand garden sprayer. Keep a bag of oil dry on hand for minor drips of oil and to clean up any spills. Doing so will keep you floor looking good over time. In the distant future you can also apply a second coat of sealant if you feel the floor needs it and without any prep other than vacuuming the old floor.

ihuntgsps · #8 07/26/12, 08:22 AM

sealer seems to be the way to go (only downside is slippery).

would it be best to put a real nice trowel finish on it (real smooth) or just bull float a couple times and leave it slightly porous before applying sealer?

I know....lots of questions with lots of different possible answers. Just want to do it right the first time and not wish I did it differently for the next 20 or 30 years while I am using it.

agmantoo · #9 07/26/12, 08:58 AM

Anything but a slick finish will wear faster. If you plan on using a mechanics creeper you will appreciate the finished floor. Visit your nearest car dealer and go into their repair area. Your are going to put down a vapor barrier aren't you? How are you dealing with the cold weather and possible heaving in your area? Any expansion joints? Reinforced with rebar or fiber? And the thickness of the pour is?

frankva · #10 07/26/12, 11:46 AM

Mine is rough. I dislike it. Do over would be smooth. I get water pooling on the rough, and it is slippery when it freezes.

If I had to dedicate a wet vac to it I would go smooth. I have to broom it as it is...

citxmech · #11 07/26/12, 12:05 PM

Worked for many years in shops with both unfinished, and epoxy coated concrete floors. Personally, if it were mine, I had the $$$, and if I were going to be doing any serious work in the space, I'd go with the epoxy finish. Yes, slipping is a greater hazard, but cleaning is much easier too and if you do a light color, your shop lighting goes further. The floor I worked in was finished in a light gray - pure white was so reflective it was actually hard on the eyes at times. FYI, for snow/water puddles, a floor squeegee and fan will make quick work of that.

ihuntgsps · #12 07/26/12, 03:33 PM

I do appreciate all the replies and ideas.

It will have vapor barrier under the slab but no insulation under the slab.

The foundation is already in and rebar will be drilled into this foundation (rat barrier type 18" wide x 18" deep by minimum 6" width/depth - L shaped if that makes sense)

will have plenty of rebar and steel mesh. have not decided on fiber in mix or not.

will use 4000 lb mix and pour it about 4 to 4.5" thick. ground is hard packed clay/dirt with washed fill sand that has been tamped and will be plate compacted again prior ot the pour.

The finished look is not the most important aspect but something that will be comfortable to work on (vehicles and woodworking projects) and hopefully easy to keep reasonably clean. refelction of light is another aspect I have not thought about at all but a good point.

Now need to worry about my lighting also:-)

raymilosh · #13 07/26/12, 04:08 PM

i used a 2 part epoxy from Epoxymaster. 36 by 46 cost me $1200. part of the floor is tan, the rest is red. The red shows dirt less but is less reflective of light, the tan is brighter, but has stains, now. I applied it with 2 friends' help. I ordered flakes with the epoxy to spread like confetti. It improved the look and gave it a little bit of texture. It took a couple of days to cure enough to walk on and a couple more before being able to drive on it. I have been surprised that it is not slippery unless i mix oil and water on the floor. It chips if beaten on or if pointed steel is dragged across or if i drop heavy metal on it. it also gets pocked when i weld on it, so it takes experience and care to keep it in good shape.
I definitely like it, despite its shortcomings. Easy to sweep and to mop and to wipe up spills.
I put everything on wheels to make it easy to work on.
I don't have experience with the sealer mentioned, so i can't make any comparison. I do have experience with the paint i have tried ..enough to say that it comes off with use.

agmantoo · #14 07/26/12, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ihuntgsps

I do appreciate all the replies and ideas.

It will have vapor barrier under the slab but no insulation under the slab.

The foundation is already in and rebar will be drilled into this foundation (rat barrier type 18" wide x 18" deep by minimum 6" width/depth - L shaped if that makes sense)

will have plenty of rebar and steel mesh. have not decided on fiber in mix or not.

will use 4000 lb mix and pour it about 4 to 4.5" thick. ground is hard packed clay/dirt with washed fill sand that has been tamped and will be plate compacted again prior ot the pour.

The finished look is not the most important aspect but something that will be comfortable to work on (vehicles and woodworking projects) and hopefully easy to keep reasonably clean. refelction of light is another aspect I have not thought about at all but a good point.

Now need to worry about my lighting also:-)

Thanks. Sounds as if you have things thought through and under control. What will the ceiling height be? At the garage doors have you considered seating the door when closed on a slight step down (1 inch) to prevent rain from blowing under the door? I sometimes work on vehicles with body damage so I have a set of floor pockets in the floor so that I can use chains to anchor vehicles and use hydraulic tools to pull/push body parts that are damaged. The Pockets are not expensive and they have a metal caps that cover them when not in use.

PS...this is the type anchors that I have http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/cham...0-p-11538.aspx
installed while pouring the floor is a lot cheaper than core drilling!

ihuntgsps · #15 07/27/12, 07:39 AM

Details:
The bldg is a recycled greenhouse that was put up over a pool. It is all aluminum I beam construction (11" wide x 2.5" flanges with support flanges in the middle of each beam. plus 2" x 4" purlins on roof and sidewalls.)
I then bolted 2.5" angle iron brackets up each beam 2'o.c. and bolted upright 2x4x18' to it and will cover with steel. Sidewalls are also bolted 2x4's and will be covered in steel.
gable ends will be framed with wood. sidewall height is 94" and peak height is 14' so it will be very open inside.
one 10' x 9' insulated overhead door and 32" walk in door plus 4'x4' slider window on west wall.
one 7' x 9' insulated overhead door on east side plus a 60" x 44" window and 36" entry door.
north side no windows and south side will have a couple 24" x 40" sliders (framed them in but no $$ so will install later)
Trying to build the best shop possible on a shoe string budget. Bought bldg complete for $500. Tore it down and have enough good green house panels to build wife a greenhouse(16' x 10') and have enough left for a second greenhouse if ever needed.
sold the aluminum scrap i didnt reuse and made $330.
will have about $2400 in concrete and about $2000 in doors,windows, framing materials, bolts, angle iron,etc.
will insulate and finish it someday but just wanting a usable bldg at this point in time.
Maybe I need to start a new thread or something but love all the ideas...please keep em coming!

agmantoo · #16 07/27/12, 08:03 AM

ihuntgsps

Most of my projects have alway been on a tight budget. Doing so allows me to do more projects. The anchors I mentioned were used in a previous building but that is something you could make. If I lived in a cold climate I would install pex tubing in the pour for the floor to enable circulating heat in the future. You do not need to provide the heat source at this time. A few rolls of pex would be cheap. I have seen in huge warehouses how effective floor heat can be in a structure that would be cost prohibitive to heat otherwise. Should you later decide to plumb the building for compressed air contact me as I have had experience in doing that and avoiding a few pitfalls. Thanks for sharing the details on your great building. Watch for auctions where they may be selling pallet racking. IMO there is nothing better for providing storage and utilization of a shop. You could even have a mezzanine in the portion with the high ceiling.

ihuntgsps · #17 07/27/12, 09:46 AM

I have strongly considered adding pex into the slab if I can afford to buy the materials to insulate under the slab and tie in the pex tubing. Was considering doing that and capping it off until I can afford to add a water heater (probably tankless propane) and a circulating pump. Need to read up on how many zones I would need/etc.
do you know if the concrete would need to be thicker than 4-4.5" for the radiant system?

agmantoo · #18 07/27/12, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ihuntgsps

I have strongly considered adding pex into the slab if I can afford to buy the materials to insulate under the slab and tie in the pex tubing. Was considering doing that and capping it off until I can afford to add a water heater (probably tankless propane) and a circulating pump. Need to read up on how many zones I would need/etc.
do you know if the concrete would need to be thicker than 4-4.5" for the radiant system?

I am not qualified to answer the question on the thickness of the concrete but I do know that floors in homes are not that thick and have heat tubes in them. I do think I am correct in that only the perimeters of the slab need to be insulated and the core is used as heat storage. If I was to do this for heat I would heat the circulated liquid with wood. It requires that the need for heat to be anticipated but once the heat is present it will last for a lengthy duration.