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  #1  
Old 07/12/12, 09:27 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 11,998
Building receiver hitch for my 1 ton

How far, should I have the widest part of the biggest ball from the receiver? OR does it make a difference?

Should the ball be out from under the bed, and if so, by how much?
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  #2  
Old 07/12/12, 09:50 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,628
Don't know of any DOT type requirement dictating the location of the ball.

The closer the hitch ball is to the axle, the less sway effect a wiggling trailer can impart on the tow vehicle. So, the closer the better.

Counter point, in particular if you have the ball under the bed, it's darn awkward to hitch things up there, especially if things are rusty and not going on nicely.
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  #3  
Old 07/12/12, 11:18 AM
coolrunnin's Avatar  
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,198
I would put it at least level with bed and maybe a little out past the bed, you will have clearance issues on turns if you dont.
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  #4  
Old 07/12/12, 11:33 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 11,998
The top of the ball sets around 4 to 6in from the bottom sideing of the bed.. I could turn an easy 90 if it was back under the bed. So thats no problem in itself.
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  #5  
Old 07/13/12, 02:23 AM
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: monroe co. michigan
Posts: 227
My Explorer has a built in class three hitch and the 2" ball is is about 4" behind the bumper when the hitch is installed in the receiver.
My F250 has a store bought bolt on Reese class four hitch that I installed.
Both the 2" or 2 5/16 balls are about 4" behind the rear step bumper when installed. The rear edge of the receiver tube is about 2" below the rear step bumper and 1" forward of the back edge of the bumper.
The 2 5/16 hitch has two different holes to slide the pin through to install the ball. So you use the hole that get the ball where you want it, this is the way I bought it.
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  #6  
Old 07/13/12, 08:04 AM
coolrunnin's Avatar  
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,198
4" is allfull close for hooking it up with the ball under the bed.
You putting a reciever style or just a flat plate?
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  #7  
Old 07/14/12, 01:03 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 11,998
Reciever style
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  #8  
Old 07/29/12, 01:02 PM
Formerly 4animals.
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: south alabama(Hartford)
Posts: 992
Quote:
Originally Posted by flewism View Post
My Explorer has a built in class three hitch and the 2" ball is is about 4" behind the bumper when the hitch is installed in the receiver.
My F250 has a store bought bolt on Reese class four hitch that I installed.
Both the 2" or 2 5/16 balls are about 4" behind the rear step bumper when installed. The rear edge of the receiver tube is about 2" below the rear step bumper and 1" forward of the back edge of the bumper.
The 2 5/16 hitch has two different holes to slide the pin through to install the ball. So you use the hole that get the ball where you want it, this is the way I bought it.
Be careful with that"built in hitch" its simply a tube welded into the rear crossmember.. and alot of people install a hitch under that one thats bolted to the frame.. ive never had a explorer with one but ive heard stories of people really messing theres up when they bend that crossmember.
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  #9  
Old 07/30/12, 06:35 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Laurel Highlands, PA
Posts: 622
Why not just go out and buy a reese hitch... bolt onto the frame.... takes about an hour to do, even if you have to drill into the frame.
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  #10  
Old 07/30/12, 09:10 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , tx
Posts: 6,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmBoyBill View Post
How far, should I have the widest part of the biggest ball from the receiver? OR does it make a difference?

Should the ball be out from under the bed, and if so, by how much?

............My 2003 Chevy dually came with a factory receiver hitch probably good for about 10k , they are also know for having problems when utilized at max capacity ! You can buy a hitch a lot cheaper than you can build one ! , fordy
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  #11  
Old 07/31/12, 12:08 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: monroe co. michigan
Posts: 227
I've seen, people install a class #3 underneath the standard class #2 hitch, never seen one bent, but I'm sure people have.
Standard, 4wd Explorers are rated to tow 3500#, trailer tow I believe gets you to 5800# includes the class 3 hitch, the 7 pin connector, trans cooler, engine oil cooler, and the 3.73 gearing. Ours basically tows a 2700# boat and a 5X8 3500# gvw utility trailer. The 3/4 ton tows the bigger trailer.
The receivers are welded into the arched square tubing bumper reinforcement attached to the ends of the frame by (3) 18mm bolts on each end. The class 3 is just a bigger, thicker one.
Now that i looked at it I can see how it could bend down with excessive tongue weight maybe bouncing it over some bumps as you have nearly 4' unsupported between the frame rails and twisting that tube.
Anyway, sorry for the drift, I like this truck for what it is.
I see used receiver style hitches on Craiglist regularly for $50 or less.

Last edited by flewism; 07/31/12 at 12:47 PM.
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  #12  
Old 07/31/12, 11:36 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mass. and wanting to transplant
Posts: 1,294
Bill
Just buy a good custom hitch and be done with it .
Trailer hitch, hitches and bike rack (800)298-8924
I had a class 3 on My daughters S-10 Blazer and when she was rear ended @ 35 mph , by a Silverado P/U with a plow frame , the hitch took the hit .
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