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  #1  
Old 09/05/11, 08:51 PM
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Honda TRX300FWV

I'm trying to figure out why this 4-wheeler won't start. The battery is showing 13.3V on the meter w/ key off. When you try to start it, all you get is a click from the solenoid AKA Magnetic Starter Switch Assembly. Thinking maybe the solenoid. How do I test one of these to see if it's bad or not?
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  #2  
Old 09/05/11, 09:10 PM
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try the pull starter.. see if that will start it..
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  #3  
Old 09/05/11, 09:15 PM
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Oh, it will kick start. Just trying to get the electric start fixed.

Sorry, duh moment.
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  #4  
Old 09/05/11, 09:40 PM
 
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I have repaired my own Honda ATVs but never a TRX300. I think your machine has a relay in a plastic box that functions as a starter solenoid. It is located on my machines near the battery and accessible from the tool box area via the back of the ATV. I have to remove the tool box and a cover to get there. Since the machine is running from a kick start I suggest you take a voltage reading to verify the regulator rectifier is working. With a digital VO meter read the battery voltage with the switch off and remember the reading. Crank the engine and read the battery again. The voltage should increase to somewhere around 14 volts....not higher than 15.2 volts. Regarding the solenoid. You can open it and observe the condition of the points. Get your replacement solenoid off the internet as the savings are substantial. I would buy new for the solenoid as the points wear but I would if I needed a regulator rectifier get one from ebay. Post your results here or ask if you need help.
Go here to see the solenoid. It is called something else (starter magnetic) but it is item 12 on the battery schematic. I did not know your year model so I punched in 2000....verify you get what you need for YOUR machine
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...m2597#sch37676
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Last edited by agmantoo; 09/05/11 at 09:48 PM.
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  #5  
Old 09/05/11, 09:40 PM
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well i dought its the starter.. check the solinoid.. and the fuses.
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  #6  
Old 09/05/11, 11:21 PM
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It is a 1997, for the record. And yeah, that 2000 looks exactly like the diagram for the 1997. I found one on ebay for a pretty good price. Um, I was kind of looking for a test to check whether the solenoid was good or not. I think I found a pretty good test on youtube - checking for voltage input and then voltage output with key on and start button pressed (different terminals, of course). That should tell me whether the solenoid is good or bad...right?

I don't really want to pull the solenoid apart if it ain't broke, I'll probably break it - I'm just trying to fix it for an ole guy in town. I know if I have problems kick-starting this thing, he has to be. The other problems most likely caused the starting issue in the first place.

Oh, did I forget to mention it has a few other problems too, but I don't know if I should try to get into all that. Something wrong with the choke cable (adjustment?? - you have to move the choke button around just so to get it to idle right) and then there is a hose coming off the bottom of the what looks like the carburetor just hanging there continually dripping gas...

ETA - oh, why not

Quote:
and then there is a hose coming off the bottom of the what looks like the carburetor just hanging there continually dripping gas...
What's up with that?
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Last edited by How Do I; 09/05/11 at 11:24 PM.
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  #7  
Old 09/05/11, 11:23 PM
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I'd suspect a bad connection since it doesn't seem to be getting enough power to the starter

Quote:
there is a hose coming off the bottom of the what looks like the carburetor just hanging there continually dripping gas..
That's probably means the carb needs cleaning.
The float and needle valve are allowing gas to fill the carb
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Last edited by Bearfootfarm; 09/05/11 at 11:28 PM.
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  #8  
Old 09/05/11, 11:30 PM
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Is there maybe a fuse or something after the solenoid? I saw two fuses in the battery compartment. I was able to check one fuse and it looked fine. I'll double-check both fuses tomorrow and for what might look like bad connections. I couldn't even find a starter at first glance. Guess I'd better look where all the different parts are in the diagrams tonight.
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Old 09/05/11, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearfootfarm View Post
That's probably means the carb needs cleaning.
The float and needle valve are allowing gas to fill the carb
Can you give me the Fixin' 4-Wheelers For Dummies version of what that means?
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  #10  
Old 09/06/11, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Can you give me the Fixin' 4-Wheelers For Dummies version of what that means?
It means take the carb apart and clean it out.

It only takes a TINY piece of trash to keep the valve from closing.

Have you checked to make sure your battery cables and wires aren't corroded?

Have you tried jump starting it?
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  #11  
Old 09/06/11, 03:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearfootfarm View Post
It means take the carb apart and clean it out.

It only takes a TINY piece of trash to keep the valve from closing.
That sounds like lots of parts I could lose or break or misplace...and have to buy. And with no manual?? TY for the explanation though.

Quote:
Have you checked to make sure your battery cables and wires aren't corroded?

Have you tried jump starting it?
I'll have to check on that tomorrow evening.
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  #12  
Old 09/06/11, 11:03 AM
 
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How Do I

To verify that the solenoid/Magnetic Starter Switch Assembly is working all you have to do is jump from one main contact to the other main contact of the solenoid. When jumpered and with a good battery and clean terminals the starter should start cranking the engine. If that fails then the starter itself is the culprit. The fuse is not in the circuit of the battery to starter. You do need to measure the battery voltage to see how much it drops while attempting to activate the starter. PS you do not have to use a Honda solenoid as a replacement if you do not want to. A solenoid off a lawn mower/tractor can be made to work and these are cheap. A used solenoid would be about in the same condition as what you have.
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Last edited by agmantoo; 09/06/11 at 11:12 AM.
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  #13  
Old 09/06/11, 11:31 AM
 
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Get your service manual here
http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.p...-repair-manual
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  #14  
Old 09/06/11, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
That sounds like lots of parts I could lose or break or misplace...and have to buy. And with no manual?? TY for the explanation though.
It's usually not as hard as it seems since most of those parts don't have to be removed to flush it out
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  #15  
Old 09/06/11, 07:03 PM
 
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the honda shop here says that the brushes are gone in mine, they want 40 bucks for the 2 brushes and i ordered the complete starter from DB ELECTRICAL FOR 50 BUCKS PLUS 12 SHIPPING .THE HONDA SHOP HERE SAYS THE STARTER FROM THEM COSTS 430 PLUS TAX...YIKES.... they claim the starters rarely go bad , just the brushes get worn out .mine will be here friday so i'll let ya know
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  #16  
Old 09/06/11, 08:40 PM
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Well, I tried to jump the solenoid and all I got was a faint blue spark when touching the jumper. No click. Nothing. Checked the battery again and it is now showing 10.4V - I had put the battery on the charger yesterday evening for a few hours, maybe not long enough?? I think the battery has been discharged for quite awhile. The charger usually tells me if the battery can't take a charge, but it started charging it yesterday evening so I took it that the battery was OK. It might just be the battery is junk. Who knows? I really can't do much right now as it is soaking/sloppy wet here. I guess I need to check the battery is OK or not before going any further. I'll have to pick this back up when fair weather returns.
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  #17  
Old 09/06/11, 08:47 PM
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Try just a regular jump start, connecting your cables to the battery.

I still think it's just not getting enough power to the starter
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  #18  
Old 09/06/11, 10:43 PM
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I'll give that a shot tomorrow if it's not pouring...and report back.
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  #19  
Old 09/06/11, 11:08 PM
 
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Bearfootfarm

Not to be contradictory because I too would normally do as you stated with the jump start. These ATVs have a regulator rectifier and they are very sensitive and can be ruined with a jump start. It is best to remove the battery from the machine and charge the battery out of the circuit. If you read my post above you see I suggested that he battery voltage be taken in such a manner as to verify the regulator rectifier is working. IMO I think the RR is already history. If the battery is weak or will not charge correctly on a bench and needs replacing then the correct battery needs to be purchased. I believe the replacement is a Yuasa YTX14-BS. A Motocross 200 amp battery is the same battery but a lesser price. Do not buy a substitute battery of less amperage.

How Do I
Look up on the frame back of the right rear wheel and see if you see an aluminum finned heat sink. That is the regulator rectifier. Remove the plugin receptacle from the RR. Kick start the machine and with your meter read the DC voltage on the red and black wires and report here. If you can ID the yellow wires read the AC voltage between all combinations of the Yellow wires. It does matter where you start reading or which wire you label as A. Example A -B, B-C, C-A. This AC voltage will vary with engine speed. It should be somewhere around or below 50 volts at high revs. ( I am running on my memory so that reading could/may vary)
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Last edited by agmantoo; 09/06/11 at 11:12 PM.
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  #20  
Old 09/06/11, 11:18 PM
 
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mink
Have you changed one of these starters previously? If not, do not think it is like changing a car starter. There are gears that can fall off as the starter is removed. Just be careful and you should be OK. Make certain everything goes back the same as it was on the none working starter.
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