Broken heater core.

[stef]

My 1990 Olds Cutlas Ciera (146,000+ miles) busted her heater core. (the mechanic confirmed the puddle of green liquid on the front passenger floor was antifreeze) I'm done repairing her, but have not found another car as yet.

My question: if I do not use the heater, AC or fan, is it safe to use the car for trips of say 45 miles round trip? The weather here is in the high twenties...low thirties for highs mostly all this week.

I need to use this car to get around and shop for a replacement.

Thanks for your answers.

stef

[crispin]

you need to block off the heater core.

[Ray]

Yes, if you clamp the hose shut on both ends. One in to the heater core and one return line. then you can drive it years without heat. but fill the radiator back up Aeh. I've used vise grips. maybe C clamp, best wishes, ray

[stef]

Okay...thanks so much. Will get hold of the mechanic and ask him to do this.


(I can do minimal car maint.; check the oil, brake and transmission fluids, check and inflate tires, fill washer fluids...but that's the extent of my knowledge and ability )


stef

[DaleK]

You can also use one hose to bypass the core, just take off the return line and hook the feed line onto the return fitting instead. Same as clamping it off as Ray said but less likely to fail on you later. Did it with Dad's F150 for a few years.

[Darren]

As Dale said connect the supply line to the return line. It's not a big deal to remove the two lines from the black plastic box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Join the two lines using a small piece of pipe that makes a snug fit with the hoses. Use hose clamps to tighten the hoses onto the pipe.

Definitely make sure, as was suggested, that you keep the radiator filled.

[blufford]

It may not cost as much to repair as you think. I don't know if there is another location you attach the heater core or not.




http://www.truedelta.com/car-repair-...session_code=#

[Danaus29]

Heater cores are cheap, it's the labor that kills you. The one in my Ford Tempo required that the dash and passenger seat had to be removed. Took dh and me 2 days.

Bypass it and keep driving. Wear some long johns and gloves and carry an extra coat. This cold snap isn't over yet.

[seagullplayer]

If you have a Harbor Freight near by you could have cheap defrost - heat:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...fan-96144.html

[stef]

Well...had it done this afternoon...got the hose unconnected and rerouted. If you had not told me it could be done, I would not have known to ask. Took less than 1/2 an hour and $20.00 bucks.

thanks,

stef

[taylorlambert]

I had a truck and the heater core broke on it. I had a take out unit out of a camper chassis. I hooked it to the original lines and ran the blower off the lighter plug. A 2 ton truck I drove that had the heater core plugged I cut the lines off the dead AC unit. THe exchanger for it is similar to a heater core but alot bigger. I put the lines from the core to the ac core and in 5 degree weather had to drive with the windows down.

[Blu3duk]

I drove an f-250 4x4 one winter/spring with a cracked heater core, the worst part was hitting a water puddle and it freezing instantly to the windshield, but it kept my friends from asking me to chauffeur them around........ more than once.

William
Idaho

[HermitJohn]

Originally Posted by blufford

It may not cost as much to repair as you think. I don't know if there is another location you attach the heater core or not.




http://www.truedelta.com/car-repair-...session_code=#

No idea on this car, BUT OEM replacement heater cores can range from like $15 to maybe $200. Time to R&R them can range from fifteen minutes to couple day project. There are aftermarket hot water type car heater systems with core, controls, box with flappers, etc.. , some supposedly go under dash, some under seat. Most modern vehicle usually has zero under dash room unless you take a sawsall to it. Anyway these aftermarket heater kits have gotten super high priced so not really an option unless you are building some high class hot rod.

Now on really old cars, heaters were optional from factory, there was all kinds of available under dash space, and dealers would offer an aftermarket heater. Or I have seen people rig up really crude heater system, basically just cheapest heater core they could find and stick some kind of little 12V fan behind it. Beats freezing your fanny off. And any functional hot water powered heater beats any little 12V electric heater hands down.

[HermitJohn]

Originally Posted by taylorlambert

I had a truck and the heater core broke on it. I had a take out unit out of a camper chassis. I hooked it to the original lines and ran the blower off the lighter plug. A 2 ton truck I drove that had the heater core plugged I cut the lines off the dead AC unit. THe exchanger for it is similar to a heater core but alot bigger. I put the lines from the core to the ac core and in 5 degree weather had to drive with the windows down.

Needed a control valve on the incoming hot water hose. Then control cable (like a manual choke cable) from dash to the control valve. Thats the old school method before the vacuum octopus and the multitude of little flapper doors. Basically just shut down the flow of hot water to the core, thus limited the heat.

70s era GM heaters were very potent and used a vacuum control valve. If that sucker stuck open for some reason you did have to drive with windows down. Usually it was other way round, the vacuum line would get leak and valve stay closed, had to run short length tubing from control valve to port on manifold. Then you would sweat...

[Sawmill Jim]

A good ball valve works wonders too just got to open the hood for on and off