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02/27/11, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 390
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Advice on new chainsaw
The wife and I are stuck back in Colorado for a year working. Fortunately we are making good money so we have decided to start spending money on a list of things we want to have for when we make the move back to the country.
The next item on my list is a chainsaw.
This is something we will use for trimming and such around the place as well as cutting firewood. Not planning on being a lumberjack, but definitely want to buy quality the first time around. So what saw would you suggest and why. Plus what extra supplies would you keep on hand? Growing up we usually just kept an extra filter, plug and chain. Granted I will probably keep about a half dozen each of everything but the chain. Probably 2-3 spares there as well as an extra bar. Maybe even an extra cord recoil assembly given how many have failed me on various items over the years.
Thanks
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02/28/11, 06:30 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: WV
Posts: 3,268
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We have a Stihl Farm Boss with an 18 inch bar. It cuts about 7 or 8 cord of wood a year.
Good saw
Dave
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02/28/11, 06:49 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: maine
Posts: 2,324
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I would stash several chains in the package and the assorted tools to sharpen them.
Local place it is now cheaper to buy a regular Oregon chain than to pay them to sharpen it by $1. One rock...
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02/28/11, 07:42 AM
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Clinton, Louisiana
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,688
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I have a 5310? Stihl, 20 inch bar. Cuts all the wood I need. The kids gave it too me as a x-mas gift last year.
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Life......Is What You Make Of It
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02/28/11, 08:05 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Livingston Kentucky
Posts: 199
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Since you are not going to need a big timber saw I would go with the 455 rancher from Husqvarna. I love there saws. Last long time very tough and baileys has them for right at 400 bucks. This saw would last you a life time. I also find husq. easier to start then a shtil. My big 395 starts after just 3 pulls max regardless of how long it has been since it was used or how cold it is.
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02/28/11, 08:16 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
Posts: 6,977
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What do they sell in your area? Dealer support is a factor in what saw you purchase. Stihl usually has the better dealer network.
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"Education is the ability to listen to almost anything without losing your temper or your self confidence"
Robert Frost
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02/28/11, 11:37 AM
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Formerly 4animals.
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: south alabama(Hartford)
Posts: 1,023
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Id take a look at Redmax and Tanaka if you have a dealer in your area. Ive been using a newer Husqvarna one of the small ones from lowes and ive been impressed.
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02/28/11, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: az
Posts: 41
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I own a Stihl ms270 and a PoulanPro220. Have had the Poulan for 9 years. Only problem I ever had was oil pump quit. Good deal for 100 bucks! Still runs and starts easy. I needed a bigger saw too and am very happy with the Stihl. Starts pretty easy and plenty of power.
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02/28/11, 05:50 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,231
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Stihl or husky I have Stihl farm boss, and it has been very dependable, and I have a little Stihl as well a O9 I think it is, it is a good saw but not used much normally, the saw I had before those was a Poulan when it was new it was OK but wore out fast and was much aggravation the last few years I had it,
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02/28/11, 06:00 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 12,672
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We run Stihl and Husky and I have to give the nod to Stihl. Just too many parts shaking loose on the Husky but it is a very good saw too.
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Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup........
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02/28/11, 07:05 PM
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Formerly 4animals.
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: south alabama(Hartford)
Posts: 1,023
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id say get a stihl if its a bigger 660 or so saw.. but the smaller like the ms270 250 are mostly china
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02/28/11, 07:40 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 390
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I was in Murdochs today eyeballing tghe hobart 230 ironman I am planning on picking up this weekend. Took a look at the saws they have in stock. They carry stihl and husqvarna. The plan is to spend around $650 for the saw and extras. I have a really nice chain sharpening setup that was my grandfathers.
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02/28/11, 07:45 PM
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Formerly 4animals.
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: south alabama(Hartford)
Posts: 1,023
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03/01/11, 12:56 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Washington
Posts: 218
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Stihl farm boss works for me. Had it 4 years and no maintanence need except sharpening and a new bar. I cut about 6 cords a year. This saw can get heavy after a days work. But it will take sown a 25" maple tree.
If you are just doing smaller stuff look for something smaller as well. With me a 3" limb is firewood. I actually let the son cut this stuff with a chop saw.
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John
Belfair, Washington
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03/01/11, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: WV
Posts: 3,268
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I started cutting for next year today and the Farm Boss started on the 6th pull after setting since last August.
I sharpened it and am bucking logs.
Dave
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03/01/11, 03:35 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 543
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Buy a Stihl from a Dealer who services them. Had mine since just after Katrina hit & have only had to replace the cap on the oil reservoir. Get a couple of extra chains & you'll be set.
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03/01/11, 03:50 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chickaloon, AK
Posts: 51
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sandc,
Another saw that hasn't been mentioned is the John Deere or Efco. My son has 2 JD's. A large one for feeling and smaller ones for cutting firewood, cutting notches and such in our log buildings and carving. I don't think JD is selling the chainsaws anymore so you'd have to look at Efco. They are not mainstream like a Stihl or Husky so parts aren't going to just fall off of the shelf and into your shopping cart.
However, I have a Stihl Farmboss MS290. It is fine. I would not buy it again though. It doesn't have a compression release and takes some yanking to pull the cord. I never see anyone complaining about it, but I am. While I am pulling with some serious force, my son is laughing. I think a 6 year old could start either of his JD's. If Stihl is what you look at, spend a few extra buck for one with compression release. The JD also has more apparent power than the Stihl and is easier to handle.
We cut some serious amounts wood around here and the saws are always in the field. So far, after several years they are all still running just fine. The main reason I would most likely buy an Efco is to maintain continuity in brands, and my son isn't going to part with his saws. Plus I think, IMHO, it is the best of any of the various chainsaws I have ever used. Bottom line, I prefer to have tools and equipment with similar parts and builds since we do most all of our own maintaining.
Rick
Homepage: www.power-talk.net
Forum: forum.power-talk.net/
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03/04/11, 09:15 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 390
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Valleyguy-
Funny thing is that I hang out on the alaska outdoor directory normally when I am looking for purchases like this. Have always figured if people up there use it and like it, it will more than hold up for what I want.
The compression release is one item I hadn't given any thought. Definitely on my list of requirements now.
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03/05/11, 03:02 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chickaloon, AK
Posts: 51
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Hi Sandc,
Thanks for giving us the thumbs-up  . Usually Alaska is thought of as a location for strange people or outlaws. On second thought, maybe I should just stop while I am ahead.
I also like the Alaska outdoor directory forum. It has an active membership and covers interesting topics. I have to put in a disclaimer, I may be slightly biased since I am somewhat related to the owner of the forum.
Anyway.... one other thing that comes to mind that is worth looking into is the type of drive sprocket on whichever saws you are interested in. John Deere/Efco uses a rim sprocket while the Stihl MS290 came with a spur sprocket. I am sure this item can vary within any brand, depending on the specific model.
What is the difference? Just a rough attempt at an explanation, the spur sprocket can have some variation of pitch which may result in a bit of roughness or slight vibration. Guess you say it isn't as precise in the effective diameter at the power point. The spur sprocket is also a little more expensive to replace vs the rim.
There are probably other advantages/disadvantages to either type but I think the rim type is a better way to go. Now, if the chainsaw happens to have a spur, all is not lost. Just check to see if there is an Oregon or factory conversion. The Stihl fortunately was convertible from spur to rim.
Hope that helps,
Rick
Homepage: www.power-talk.net
Forum: forum.power-talk.net/
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03/05/11, 07:14 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: MO
Posts: 935
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I agree Sthil, but I went up a couple price steps from ther farm boss, it was like $30 bucks a step up, I also got the 20 inch bar. I know you don't need it, well where I am you end up cutting some trees once a year or two that the 20 inch barley cuts through from each side, at the very base, and its worth it to me to have the 20 inch bar. get a sthil and you'll never know all the trouble and heartach you missed, they are worth twice the price, in comparison. best wishes, ray
__________________
Ray
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