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07/24/10, 04:34 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wi
Posts: 168
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small tractor for small areage on a budget
I am looking for small tractor for mowing and dragging pasture . I have five acres and rotional graze . I am looking for 4 wheel because of the mud and snow . Have been looking at kubota the older models with a belly mower . I have been looking at the old ford or massy but the weight and size looks to be bigger than I want .Can anyone give advice on on the Kubota or another utility tractor that might work . Finding parts for the tractor is important as it will need to run for a long time .I cann't afford a newer tractor because of price and but the big thing is fixing it .
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07/24/10, 04:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central WI
Posts: 5,389
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do you want it just for mowing and dragging or do you want it for more?
If all you want to do is clip your pasture and flatten the clods you shouldn't be worried about mud and snow.
If you want it to plow or blow the driveway you may want a decent sized machine to deal with the sometimes heavy snows in WI.
I don't recommend old Fords to anyone if there is an N in the model number.
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07/24/10, 09:36 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 10,869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farm 36
I am looking for small tractor for mowing and dragging pasture . I have five acres and rotional graze . I am looking for 4 wheel because of the mud and snow . Have been looking at kubota the older models with a belly mower . I have been looking at the old ford or massy but the weight and size looks to be bigger than I want .Can anyone give advice on on the Kubota or another utility tractor that might work . Finding parts for the tractor is important as it will need to run for a long time .I cann't afford a newer tractor because of price and but the big thing is fixing it .
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I have had a Kobota B 7100 with 4 wheel drive. They are good little tractors. How close are the dealers to you? The parts are expensive that is why I now one another tractor. My close dealer is about 40 miles away and doesn't have the most parts but can order them overnight. Any tractor brands have about the same size and HP so as far as I am concerned they are about the same reliably. Go to any dealer and see if they repair the tractors and have parts and make your selection. You don't want a utility tractor you want a subcompact. I would start by saying have a limit on what you are going to pay for one and keep to it. You can buy a good tractor for about $8,000 or less. You will find that one just large enough is not what you want but one that is just a little bigger is better than having one that is just big enough. I now have a Massey Ferguson and that is what I realty want and the dealer is close enough (20 miles) and has parts. You can do more with a bigger tractor.
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07/25/10, 08:51 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NY
Posts: 1,181
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You will find larger tractors (those above say, 35 hp) tend to go cheaper than the the cutsie 20-30 hp CUT (compact utility tractors). An older tractor like a 600 Ford, 550 Oliver or D-15 Allis will do all you want and then some. You can figure paying between $1500 and 3500.00 for something like that with decent tires and in runnable condition.
My opinion will unpopular with the sub-urban commandos that (justifiably) adore their $20K+++ CUT. The money spent on those status symbols would be far better spent on buildings and improving your land than on shiny, new toys.
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07/25/10, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central WI
Posts: 5,389
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a 550 Ollie would be a nice machine....
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07/25/10, 10:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 10,869
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I payed $7,000 for a Massey Ferguson 150 (50 hp) and the person thought it was too much. The larger you go on the tractors the less they are asking for them up to a certain point. Look at anything up to 50 hp and compare prices. Find a dealer near you and try to get one that they will work on.
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07/26/10, 08:46 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wi
Posts: 168
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I am looking to stay around the 25 hp or less . Last year my big expense was a wheel barrow tire . In a couple year my lawn mower will wear out from the pasture .
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07/26/10, 09:03 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Central WI
Posts: 5,389
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Tractorhouse has over 700 Kubotas under 40 HP listed but not one in WI for 2500 or less.
this is what they are showing for under 2500 in WI.
http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/lis...nSearch=Search
I'd recommend the WD with the loader even if it needs an exhaust manifold.
They aren't the total listing of everything available but are usually a pretty good inicator.
Keep your money handy and attend nearby farm or estate auctions sometimes deals can be had there.
Another place to look is Yesterdays Tractors
http://www.tractorshed.com/cgi-bin/p...lassifieds.cgi
They have a Farmall M listed for 1250 which is a very good price.
If you're up north there is Northwoods T and A out of Gleason.
http://northwoodsta.com/id52.html
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Last edited by sammyd; 07/26/10 at 09:31 AM.
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08/03/10, 08:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Korea---but from Missouri
Posts: 829
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Something else to think about. I have Massey 65 that I'm into for about 15G at this point. Older isn't necessarily better to save $. Paid $3000 for "yard tree" rebuilt tactor with a decent paint job and brand new tires at a junk farm auction (should have known better). Decided I wanted a loader--more $ and a 1000 mile trip to pick one up I was told would work (not exactly a bolt on). More $ for custom fabrication to get the loader mounted (they did a good job--better than factory). Figured out the crank and bearing were wearing into the block. Many more dollars for a brand new remanufactured perkins (my dealership did a heck of job for the price).
However, I do have a tractor that will probably now outlast me and my kids.
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08/03/10, 08:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Indiana, USA
Posts: 12,504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverbackMP
Something else to think about. I have Massey 65 that I'm into for about 15G at this point. Older isn't necessarily better to save $. Paid $3000 for "yard tree" rebuilt tactor with a decent paint job and brand new tires at a junk farm auction (should have known better). Decided I wanted a loader--more $ and a 1000 mile trip to pick one up I was told would work (not exactly a bolt on). More $ for custom fabrication to get the loader mounted (they did a good job--better than factory). Figured out the crank and bearing were wearing into the block. Many more dollars for a brand new remanufactured perkins (my dealership did a heck of job for the price).
However, I do have a tractor that will probably now outlast me and my kids.
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Good points.
Some tractors, especially ones from around the 70's, are "modern" tractor models, but bacome obsolete quickly and parts can be expensive and very hard to find. You might sink 1/2 the cost of the tractor into a new clutch or ring job, unless you DIY.
If you have the money, IMO, sink it into a newer subcompact, with low hours. The way things are going, you can probably use it for many years and sell it, for nearly as much as you paid for it.
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08/03/10, 08:59 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Eastern North Carolina
Posts: 33,412
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Quote:
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I am looking to stay around the 25 hp or less
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That's not much tractor if you want to do any real work.
I used a small Kubota for a while , with a front end loader, and more than half a bucket full of dirt would stand it on it's nose.
Also, the tires were so narrow it would dig itself into the ground if you put too much weight on it
It would have been worthless in snow or mud
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08/04/10, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NY
Posts: 1,181
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I'm with Bearfoot. You're talking what basically amounts to a very expensive toy, an overgrown lawn mower. Do yourself a favor and get a real tractor. 4wd is nice, but very expensive and you'll just get stuck deeper and farther into the bog hole.
If you can't afford to fix things then how will you be able to afford to fix the 4 wd Kubota ($$$$) when you break it, and you will break it eventually. For mowing and dragging you don't need 4wd, you need good tires of chains and adequate HP and weight to do the job. An older utility tractor of 35-45 hp with a simple gas engine and 3pt will do all you want. If you HAVE to have a loader then make sure it has power sterring.
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08/04/10, 09:05 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,689
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If you can fabricate and do major repairs yourself, then the world is your oyster and probably can get by with anything.
If however you hire all your mechanic work, stick to what is available locally that has parts available and a local mechanic that works on it.
4wd can make all the difference on a modern lightweight as to usefulness. Not only gives more traction but more weight. BUT, 4wd can be expensive to hire worked on. Diesels are high priced to work on. But then so are gas engines, if it says tractor on it, then parts suddenly become worth multiples of what same part would cost for an old carb car.
I am not a Ford "N" fan but parts are easy to find and they are relatively cheap far as tractors go. Its a light duty tractor and fits your horsepower goals. No 4wd.
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08/04/10, 02:06 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,098
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And as HJ said, (If your not a machanic), then buying a Ford N series will make u one, if u keep it.
As to 20 something hps not being worth much. Ive been farming with my CC Case for over 40 yrs, My H Farmall works good also, no complaints. COURSE, I know, that these tractors put out over 20hp BEYOND the hp needed to carry their weight. The light modern ones do also, BUT, If you dont have that weight, and the hp extra to move it, your not going to get to do much.
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08/04/10, 05:33 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NY
Posts: 1,181
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Bill, 20 hp measured in 1939 or 1949 isn't the same as 20 hp measured today. Cripes, a 5 hp Briggs of 1965 would be at least 12 "developed" hp today. And the weight is a big factor too. Another huge difference is those 38" tires on the old H and the 20's or 24's on the little modern rig. Jezze, my 30 hp Cockshutt 30 will out pull my 45 hp Ford 800 until I put ring chains on. Taller tires grab differently.
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08/04/10, 07:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Korea---but from Missouri
Posts: 829
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Nother suggestion--I've seen "newer" low hour MF MF235s, 250s, 265s, and 275s going for decent prices. These are decent sized tractors but not overly huge.
In fact, I want a 235 or 250 with turf tires to complement my MF65. Want something I can pull my 8' fail without tearing up pasture as badly.
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08/05/10, 06:08 PM
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Cactus Farmer/Cat Rancher
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 1,974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farm 36
I am looking to stay around the 25 hp or less . Last year my big expense was a wheel barrow tire . In a couple year my lawn mower will wear out from the pasture .
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That is a 1940s era Case VAC. When I bought it the tractor had sat outside in the weather for the past 4 years before I got it without being ran. I put some gas in it and haven't looked back. My biggest expense to date (besides gas) was changing the oil once. I paid 700 bucks for the tractor and had a disc and drag thrown in with it. I use it to plow my two small fields, drag old cars around, knock down the weeds in the back.
It may not be as nice as a Kabota but I can get parts for it at the local autoparts store and repair it myself. I can't imagine you could get anything cheaper than my Case and have it still run.
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08/06/10, 08:07 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NY
Posts: 1,181
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Phil, got 2 VAC's and a VAI. Great tractors.
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08/06/10, 09:20 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Eastern North Carolina
Posts: 33,412
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Quote:
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I payed $7,000 for a Massey Ferguson 150 (50 hp) and the person thought it was too much.
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I'd have to agree with them
I bought a MF-175 (63 HP Perkins Diesel) for $5000, and got a 9 ft disk, a 7 tine chisel plow, a Herd Cyclone fertilizer spreader and boom pole with it.
And then the guy brought it all to my house at no charge
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08/06/10, 09:23 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: WI
Posts: 2,180
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I have a Ford 9N that I got for $800 at an auction, spent a few hundred overhauling the engine, and have used it for 15 years or so for mowing and hauling a trailer for firewood around the place. Other than the pedal arrangement for clutch and brakes, I think it is a fine piece of machinery and needs minimal maintenance and repairs. They go for $1500 to $2000 around here, it seems.
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