I'm in a car-purchasing quandary :-(

wombatcat · #1 07/06/10, 11:28 PM

Well, last week I hit a deer with my 2004 Toyota Corolla. I loved that car--best car I ever had. It truly had never ever broken down before--the only money I put into it was maintenance. It was so dependable!!!! Anyhow. It also had 275,000 miles on it. (Can you believe it??? I never even had to replace the alternator!)

Anyhow, I heard from the insurance guy today....sure enough....the deer did more damage than the car is worth. It's totalled. And due to the high mileage, I'll be getting a check for a little over $4,000. That's all.

And I'm laid off (although working part time, I do not currently have a full-time job). So....not only is money tight, but even if I/we could realistically take on a small payment, we probably can't get a loan.....

Anyhow. I really do not want to waste my time/money on a car that will not last--my last two cars were a Pontiac and a Ford, and both of them broke down often, until they finally "petered out" and went to the junkyard before they even hit 200,000 miles. (As you can see, I do quite a bit of driving, and if I do find a job, it will probably be at least a 1-hr commute (one way)).
So based on my unfortunate experiences with American cars, as much as I'd like to "buy American", there is something to be said about how long my Toyota lasted (and would still be lasting, if it weren't for that stupid deer). Anyhow, please don't flame me for not wanting to buy American, I just don't have the money to mess around with lots of repairs.

So my question is/are....I've checked online. It doesn't appear that it is realistic for me to find another 2004 Toyota Corolla in my price range (under $5000). 2003's are very similar, but also don't seem to be too many in the price range. 2002 and earlier are completely different body styles. I am really wanting another Toyota. I'm not sure how old would still be "ok" (does that make sense?) And would it be better for me to look at an older car with lower miles, or a newer car with higher miles? Or maybe you can convince me that American cars last longer now and I should consider something else.....?

Any words of wisdom are welcome--I really hate "making do" but I guess right now that is what I am going to end up doing. And when buying "very used", I need all the advice I can get.

Thanks very much for any help you can give me.

haypoint · #2 07/07/10, 02:53 AM

There are good cars and bad cars within all makes and models.
If you can find someone you know that has a car in that price range and you are reasonably sure they took care of it, that might be a way to go.

Some folks just get a new car like clockwork, so many miles or so many years old, they buy new. A lot of folks get "pushed" into buying a new car when the car they own needs a major repair or has been nickle/dimeing them. You can't afford that kind of car. Cars with major damage repairs often get sold, too.

Know any body shop owners? Cars with just a salvage title sell for much less and could be mechanically sound.

You had 275,000 miles on it. It could have blown up next week. Because of how good it has been, you might even believe it could have given you another 100,000 trouble free miles. Probably not.

So, even if you could find exactly what you had, it can fail, too.

Knowing the history is vital.

OntarioMan · #3 07/07/10, 08:53 AM

Every used vehicle is somewhat of a gamble. The more knowledge you have, the less the risk. The less you pay, the less the risk.

If you'd like to lower your investment cost, don't overlook some older well kept vehicles. The Mazda Protege and Toyota Corolla are two with good reputations, and some of the 98, 99, 2000, etc. are often very realistically priced and with much less miles than you had on your Corolla. What do they cost? I suppose it depends where you are, but if I looked and waited a bit, I could find something in those years for around $2k and under 120k miles.

HermitJohn · #4 07/07/10, 12:41 PM

You might find the current Japanese brands are lessening in quality as they develope the same short term thinking and desire for quick profits that was the downfall of the American companies.

I am of no use in offering suggestions in your quest. Anymore I drive few miles so vehicle that is cheap to buy and cheap/simple to repair is what I need. That means simple and old without lot gadgets and electronics. Modern stuff doesnt like setting around for long periods of time unused. Nothing modern is cheap to keep unless you plan on putting huge number miles per year on it to keep cost per mile down. Once modern stuff gets older, its so complex and parts so expensive, that it simply isnt worth repairing, not to mention all modern vehicles except the very cheapest are all automated with power everything to increase manufacturer and dealer profits. This stuff doesnt age well.

fordy · #5 07/07/10, 03:58 PM

................I just did a search on Car Finder , 2000 too 2003 Corolla , less than 60,000 miles , any engine , any xmission and goot over 100 hits . Prices were from $4,999 up too 10,999 ! I would do a search for Hyundai with low milage in the Years you were interested in ! With car finder there is a whole range of criteria you can use for searching . , fordy

**clovis** · #6 07/07/10, 08:23 PM

All cars break down.

All car companies have problem cars.

I have an 06 Chevy HHR with 108,000 trouble free miles, save for 3 bulbs...about $13 out of pocket so far.

My 98 Chevy Monte Carlo is getting it's first repair ever. My dad bought the car new...it has over 106,000. The cost for repair... $200.

My 95 Chevy S-10 has 175,000 miles, and yes, I've had to put $140 into it. I replaced the alternator a few months ago, but didn't need to...stupid on my part. I also put a sensor and rotor and cap on it. The cap and rotor are normal wear parts, so I don't even think they count. When you boil it down, I've spent about $20 on a sensor as my total repair costs.

My sister's 99 Mustang has 165,000, and it has never been in the shop for any reason.

My dad's 03 Chevy Impala, 70,000 miles....never in the shop.

My uncle's 05 Toyota mini-van had the master cylinder go out at 37,000 miles. Cost to fix it was $1200. The water pump went out, and the brake problems with rotors happened after that. The tires were also completely shot after 30,000, which is the same tire wear rate on my aunt's Highlander. Is this a trend with Toyota? Put cheap tires on a car that only last 30,000 miles????

I just met a guy that has a 99 Terdcel, and it burns a quart of oil or more every 1,000 miles. This car only has 97,000 miles on it.

Again, they all have problems.

I would not be scared for a minute to buy an American built car.

HermitJohn · #7 07/07/10, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clovis

My uncle's 05 Toyota mini-van had the master cylinder go out at 37,000 miles. Cost to fix it was $1200.

And my TX friend's late model full size Chevy van with the $800 fuel pump. Come on, this sort of pricing and complexity is nuts.

What moron would ever design a car with a $1200 master cylinder or an $800 fuel pump. That should be cost of a rebuilt engine, not some support system for the engine. All this does is make the vehicle unaffordable to repair for those that are stuck with it at the end of its life.

Tobster · #8 07/07/10, 09:12 PM

How badly damaged is your Corolla? You know the car, after settling with the insurance company, any chance you could buy it back? Who cares what it looks like, you said you are laid off, can it be made to get you where you are going? Is the $4000 amount after some back and forth with the insurance company? Insurance is a contract and it can be argued, you can dig your heels in and fight a bit. If the car can be salvaged, perhaps you can negotiate that with the insurance company, get a cash settlement and the car. You don't ask, you don't get.

OntarioMan · #9 07/08/10, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HermitJohn

What moron would ever design a car with a $1200 master cylinder or an $800 fuel pump. That should be cost of a rebuilt engine, not some support system for the engine. All this does is make the vehicle unaffordable to repair for those that are stuck with it at the end of its life.

And some of the repairs on newer vehicles are complicated & require special equipment/tools - so there may be no chance of you performing the repairs yourself or even having a small & cheaper shop do the repairs. There are almost no used parts available for late-model cars, and what is available, you don't save much compared to new.

You hear the horror stories frequently about late-model used vehicles. I suppose in the end, you hope that whatever you have is either covered under warranty or that those high priced parts don't fail. The more money you have invested in a vehicle, the more obligated you are to have it repaired.

watcher · #10 07/08/10, 12:15 PM

If its not too late you might want to check just how bad your car is and consider buying it back. The insurance cost are usually based on new parts and shop labor. Getting used parts and using your own labor you can cut the repair cost to the point it would be worth your while. I wouldn't think hitting a deer would have damaged anything which couldn't be fixed.

HermitJohn · #11 07/08/10, 02:28 PM

I'd always take older model with low miles over new model with high miles for same kinda money. Well within reason, you get something real old, you going to deal with dried out seals and leaks and hard to find parts, etc. Personally if I needed little car to commute, I'd go look at something like this: http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/1804662640.html You maybe a toyota person, but I'd probably take a honda or subaru or mazda over a toyota. Do your homework though, all makes have their lemon years and models. Honda, just fewer than most historically. As I say the Japanese seem to be doing same stupid things the American manufacturers did in past and going for short term profit at expense of their reputation.

CK25Hulk · #12 07/08/10, 02:42 PM

Like you I have a 04 Corolla and have 176k on the clock and drive 2 hours daily for my commute. It too has had very little problems with it, just regular maintenance. If you do go with an older corolla be aware around 02/03 years they had a timing belt instead of what you and I have which is a timing chain. The belt replacement is typically once every 90k or somewhere close to that. It is also somewhat a costly item to have the dealer replace. The timing chain will not last forever but I think it is generally understood you should be able to get 300k out of one.

If and when mine goes I'll probably get another one since this one has treated me so well. Another option is to use the 4k on a down payment and then finance 1-2k. As another poster said I believe you can argue the amount they give you if can prove it is not the correct amount. I have heard stories of others that contested the amount and received by the insurance co and a slightly larger amount after the fact was given to them.

good luck

PhilJohnson · #13 07/08/10, 05:12 PM

All makes have good and bad models and engines, few that come to mind are Toyota Tracels (seen way too many blown up or oil burning motors in those things before they even got to 100k), GM 3.1 V-6s (can you say blown head gasket?), Ford 3.8 V-6s (also blown head gaskets), first generation Saturn engines (oil burning piles), Toyota 3.0 V-6s(also good for blowing head gaskets), and Mistubishi 3.0s (oil burners and also known for wierd engine noises).

I've known a lot of people who had good luck with GM 3.8 v-6s. I had a little Suzuki Swift with a 1.5 liter four cylinder. Even with 230,000 miles on it the car still got 50 mpg. Few other stand outs I can think of are my parent's Astro vans, both had over 265,000 miles on them when they sold them. The record though would have to be for my parent's old 1986 Buick Skylark, 310,000 on the Iron Duke four. Even after they sold it I still seen it regularly for years around town. I have a Ford Taurus with 210K on it that runs fine. Everyone makes loosers (even the Japanese gasp!!). Good way to find what cars are loosers is to start looking on Craigslist, you'll start to notice that there will be a lot of certain models of cars that all have the same problems. The worst ones seem to be Toyota Tracels and anything with a GM 3.1 V-6 and Daewoos. Korean cars seem to be good for 100-140k, I'd say out of all the cars I've seen they last the shortest amount of time.

When you see a lot of the same type of cars with super high miles for sale it is a good sign. Typically for domestics they are either 4.3 powered GM vans or 3.8 GM V-6 equiped Oldsmobiles or Buicks that have the most miles on them. BMWs always have a ton of miles on them (at least the ones I can afford) and parts are cheaper than some of the Japanese makes plus they get good gas mileage to boot (30-35mpg). I've had a lot of good luck with Suzuki and Nissian. I am not a big fan of Toyota, I think they are super over rated. Don't see many Hondas around here so I can't comment on them other than when I first got my driver's license (in 2000) I seen tons of 89-94 Hondas with blown automatic transmissions that typically had about 120-140k on the ODO.

ldc · #14 07/08/10, 06:20 PM

Wombatcat, I too am/was a happy Toyota car driver, but older ones, 90-95. I also did what Tobster suggested up above, once; bought back my totaled VW Fox wagon. The damage was all exterior and unsightly, not mechanical. Drove that another 50K, and then moved on to a very used Subaru, that still went in its early 20's, just under 300K. If anyone fixes Subarus in your area, you might want to look for one. The older models (earlier than 2000 I believe) had their fuel filter reachable under the passenger side, didn't have to lift the engine. When I had trouble with the dual carbs, I kept it going by keeping very clean filters! Or something like that! Anyway, from yr address, looks like you might appreciate a slightly heavier ride in the snow, like a Subaru. Not dissing anyone's Toyota! My latest car is a Ford Escort wagon, as it's original driver was beyond driving age..so the price was great. Not a long distance vehichle tho! And I keep stamping on the floor for the clutch! Hadn't driven an automatic in 30 yrs. Hope you find a good one; here many are selling their 2nd older vehichle. That way you might get a Toyota built before some of the new problems, at a great price. Good luck, ldc

whatrset · #15 07/08/10, 07:43 PM

I definitely wouldnt surrender the car on 4K. I had a friend who hit a deer in his 04 Malibu. The Insurence company totaled it. He haggled with them, got to keep to old car and got the money they were going to pay out at total rate. He then bought a second 04 malibu and parted out his old one. Come to find out, the only reason the Insurance company totaled it was b/c the impact sheared the engine mouting rubber blocks. He coulda fixed it, but had already got the new used car.

**clovis** · #16 07/08/10, 08:52 PM

I ran into the guy with the Toyota Terdcel.

It is not only burning oil, but he says the "ball joint is completely sheared apart". I'm not sure exactly what that means, but the car is inoperable.

He's still brainwashed about Toyota, and thinks they are the greatest cars on earth.

IMO, the greatest cars on earth don't start burning oil with only 97,000 miles on the clock.

**clovis** · #17 07/08/10, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilJohnson

All makes have good and bad models and engines, few that come to mind are Toyota Tracels (seen way too many blown up or oil burning motors in those things before they even got to 100k), GM 3.1 V-6s (can you say blown head gasket?).

Technically, I think it is the intake manifold gaskets that are failing on those older cars.

The DexCool antifreeze ruining the Fel-Pro gaskets...or is it bad Fel-Pro gaskets, and great DexCool antifreeze????

At any rate, aside from that issue, the GM 3.1 can't wear out, can they?

**Roadking** · #18 07/10/10, 11:07 PM

sorry mods, if this is out of place; but...
KBB.com and nadaguides.com are what the used car market usually follow. At least you will know what the "actual" value is (I use it for classic snd antiques) as per the market.
Hope this helps in your search.
Matt

wombatcat · #19 07/11/10, 04:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by watcher

If its not too late you might want to check just how bad your car is and consider buying it back. The insurance cost are usually based on new parts and shop labor. Getting used parts and using your own labor you can cut the repair cost to the point it would be worth your while. I wouldn't think hitting a deer would have damaged anything which couldn't be fixed.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and ideas--I did know that buying it back would be a possibility, but I figured that I'd need more than $4,000 to fix it :-(
I did have the agent and the auto body shop (both of them individually) check into used parts, it was still totalled :-(

The deer smashed in the hood, pushed in the radiator (it dropped all the fluid), shattered the windshield, dented the roof (it hit the windshield where it joins the roof) and something is wrong with the airbag mechanism, although for some reason it didn't deploy. I trust the auto body guy and believe him when he says it's totalled even with the used parts. I didn't know I could haggle :-( I feel like a dummy :-( Rats. Well, live and learn, I guess.....

You all have given me some things to think about, though....I feel more confident that I'll find something "good" with my meager $4,000 now....I'll still welcome any additional thoughts here....and I'll let you know what I end up getting....

GoldenCityMuse · #20 07/12/10, 10:40 AM

My Mazda MPV, 1990. Found fuel pump online for about $60. I posted here about cheap places to find car parts.

Also have a 99 Mazda protege 5sp, pretty happy with it so far.

Any car will burn oil at 97k miles if basic maintenance is not properly performed, or if it has been over revved and overheated. Very doubtful it is the fault of the car.

All cars have parts that wear and need replacing, it is part of the total cost of ownership.

Anyway, I recommend a 2000 model Protege, they are well made and great for the price. Oh, and do your own repairs, you can save LOTS.