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06/28/10, 01:14 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pemaquid, ME
Posts: 71
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1990 Ford F-250 Death Shake
I have a 90 F-250 4X4 extended cab. It's my daily driver most of the time, and has 278 thousand miles on it.
Truck runs great, drives great, but recently I've been getting a terrible shaking in the front end sometimes. Not every day, no special speed (but always faster than 30mph)
I can't figure it out. I've checked for loose bolts under the front end, but not finding anything that seems loose or out of place.
Suggestions Please!
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06/28/10, 02:09 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,688
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My guess bad ball joint or tie rod/ drag link end.
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06/28/10, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,003
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Also check for vertical movement in the idler arm on the right side. Could also be bad shocks.
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06/28/10, 04:59 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1981
I have a 90 F-250 4X4 extended cab. It's my daily driver most of the time, and has 278 thousand miles on it.
Truck runs great, drives great, but recently I've been getting a terrible shaking in the front end sometimes. Not every day, no special speed (but always faster than 30mph)
I can't figure it out. I've checked for loose bolts under the front end, but not finding anything that seems loose or out of place.
Suggestions Please!
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You need to check all your front end bushings/bearings. Too much slack in something.
Ball joints, arm bushings, rod ends, or a little of all the above.
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06/28/10, 06:56 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pemaquid, ME
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HermitJohn
My guess bad ball joint or tie rod/ drag link end.
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What is the best procedure for checking ball joints? I don't think it's tie rod or drag link, as I have no slop that I can feel trying to move things around by hand.
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06/28/10, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pemaquid, ME
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneokie
Also check for vertical movement in the idler arm on the right side. Could also be bad shocks.
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I know the shocks are no good, I'll get a set and put them on first. I didn't know shocks could cause something that dramatic- but they are old and don't work.
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06/28/10, 08:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Alaska
Posts: 2,675
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Faulty tires or tires out of balance.
Then go for loose front end parts.
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06/28/10, 10:47 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
Posts: 10,539
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Shake the wheels. You could have loose lug nuts or a bad wheel bearing.
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06/29/10, 06:36 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1981
What is the best procedure for checking ball joints? I don't think it's tie rod or drag link, as I have no slop that I can feel trying to move things around by hand.
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Assuming your lug nuts are tight and bearings are ok... Simplest way to test ball joints is to jack under the axle letting wheel be air born. Grab tire in 12o'clock and 6o'clock position and see if there is play. You can also use small pry tool to check for movement up and down at the joint. For steering linkage, grab tire in 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. During both tests watch the joints closely and you will see them move a bit if faulty. Be especially watchful of any joint missing its rubber. You find any joint without rubber or torn rubber, etc, you can try to clean it and put on new one, but most likely you will have to replace the whole joint unless you got real lucky and discovered it soon after rubber first lost integrity.
__________________
"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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06/29/10, 07:36 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 2,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HermitJohn
Assuming your lug nuts are tight and bearings are ok... Simplest way to test ball joints is to jack under the axle letting wheel be air born. Grab tire in 12o'clock and 6o'clock position and see if there is play. You can also use small pry tool to check for movement up and down at the joint. For steering linkage, grab tire in 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. During both tests watch the joints closely and you will see them move a bit if faulty. Be especially watchful of any joint missing its rubber. You find any joint without rubber or torn rubber, etc, you can try to clean it and put on new one, but most likely you will have to replace the whole joint unless you got real lucky and discovered it soon after rubber first lost integrity.
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A lot of folks would need a pry bar under the wheel to move it and check for slack.
Good to keep an eye on ball joints, having one fail on ya is not a good thing..
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06/29/10, 04:14 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Pemaquid, ME
Posts: 71
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Found the problem. Never would have thought, but the bolts that hold the front axle (twin i-beam, i believe) together and to the truck were all loose. Not rusty, broken, or missing, just loose. I tightened everything up, and problem is gone. Any suggestions on how to keep this from happening again?
Despite the age and miles, the truck is back to normal, and riding quite well. I am still going to replace the shocks, however.
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06/29/10, 08:29 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1981
Found the problem. Never would have thought, but the bolts that hold the front axle (twin i-beam, i believe) together and to the truck were all loose. Not rusty, broken, or missing, just loose. I tightened everything up, and problem is gone. Any suggestions on how to keep this from happening again?
Despite the age and miles, the truck is back to normal, and riding quite well. I am still going to replace the shocks, however.
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Went through something similar with our Cherokee. Just every so often, out of the blue, she'd get the Death Wobble. Nick wound up replacing the tie rod ends and the steering stablizer. Heck, I figure for a 26 year old Jeep with 250K on her, the rubber had to go sooner or later.
For your truck, I'd use Loc-tite and lock washers to keep those bolts from loosening up again.
Glad it wasn't an involved fix.
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