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06/05/10, 09:43 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Indiana, USA
Posts: 12,504
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Leaking Sprayer Tank
I have a 3 year old, 30 gallon Fimco trailer sprayer, that has been working great. Although I have not used it exstensively, (probably less than 10 hours), it haqs developed a small leak, where the plastic tank mounts to the trailer frame.
This has to be a "who's brite idea was this", or to take the cheap way out, engineering moment. A 30 gallon liquid tank is held on by (2 ) 7/16" mounting nuts, formed into the plastic. Apparently the 10 hours of use, has caused the nut to wear through the plastic. I tried silicone caulk twice, but that does not seem to be sealing it.
I'm thinking of just cutting out the nut and everything out flush and then using a brass nut/bolt and washer, with a rubber washer, similar to how a toilet tank is mounted.
Would this work, or am I asking for more trouble, with leaking and reaction from weed killers?
If I need to buy another tank, I'll go with a different brand sprayer completely.
Last edited by plowjockey; 06/05/10 at 09:46 AM.
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06/05/10, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas
Posts: 4,285
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Could you put a layer of fiberglass matting with fiberglass resin over the leak to build it up and then secure the mounting bracket?
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06/05/10, 10:44 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,003
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If you can access the leak from the inside of the tank, try this:
Clean the area with soapy water and rinse well.
Let dry.
Cut a "patch" from an old tire innertube that will cover the hole and extend 2" beyond the hole.
Slather the silicone on the "patch" and apply to the hole and press down enough that the silicone is extruded from between the "patch" and the tank.
Let cure for 24 hrs.
I did several leaks in a 300 gal. poly sprayer tank and had good success.
YMMV.
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06/05/10, 11:23 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: East-Central Ontario
Posts: 3,855
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Reply
I'd just cut it out, drill it out whatever size will work, put a short nut and bolt and two washers through it with rubber or caulking on each side to plug the hole, and use a good strap to hold the tank down instead.
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06/05/10, 01:40 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Eastern North Carolina
Posts: 33,412
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Quote:
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I'm thinking of just cutting out the nut and everything out flush and then using a brass nut/bolt and washer, with a rubber washer, similar to how a toilet tank is mounted.
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I'd try that, but with epoxy around the hole and rubber washers
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06/05/10, 05:04 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
Posts: 10,539
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plowjockey
What you are proposing should work. I would use stainless steel fasteners and I would put four mounting screws in to keep the tank from rocking. My small Fimco tank has four fasteners in the base but it is not trailer mounted. My Fimco broke yesterday, the Y connector split and started leaking.
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06/05/10, 06:37 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plowjockey
This has to be a "who's brite idea was this", or to take the cheap way out, engineering moment. .
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Plastic as its used in most applications is the epitomy of short term thinking looking for short term profits. It has specialized uses where nothing else would work, but for day to day items meant to be used long term, its not a great idea and is next to impossible to repair.
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06/05/10, 07:44 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Indiana, USA
Posts: 12,504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HermitJohn
Plastic as its used in most applications is the epitomy of short term thinking looking for short term profits. It has specialized uses where nothing else would work, but for day to day items meant to be used long term, its not a great idea and is next to impossible to repair.
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I don't mind the plastic as much, as metal corrodes quickly with glyphosate, wich I believe also reacts with galvanized metal, it just the p*** poor design, made cheaply as possible. (2) 7/16" nut heads, barely imbedded in plastic (plus a clamp on the front), are supporting nearly 250 lbs of liquid. I wonder if they ever really test these sprayers when they were full. maybe on smooth surface only.
A metal band around the outside, would have worked better, but then they might to have to raise the price 6 bucks.
I re-glopped it with silicone caulking again, to see if it will get me through the season. If it does not work, I'll start cutting.
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06/05/10, 09:46 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 31
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pick up a cheap plastic welder and plastic welding rods. Most plastic welders come with an assortment of various plastic types rods.
Also what works well is to heat to red an old screwdriver and repeatedly drag across the crack until it is resealed. Works everytime with a little practice.
Plastic tanks are NOT the cheap way out for manufacturers. Tanks sometimes have to be custom formed in bizarre shapes to fit in tighter places. Some shapes would be impossible to make with metal.
Plastic tanks normally last longer than their metal counterparts and have many other benefits.
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