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  #1  
Old 03/08/10, 05:52 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: maine
Posts: 1,175
Brake mechanics ?

I need to replace the wheel cylinder on the rear drum brake of a toyota camry.
Do i need to disassemble the entire works to do this or can i get away with just
releasing the springs (3)?
Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 03/08/10, 07:25 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas
Posts: 4,285
I'd take the whole assembly apart if I were doing it. When you take the wheel cylinder loose, you're gonna spill some brake fluid and if you get it on the brake shoes, you'll be buying new brake shoes too. It's not that much more trouble once you have the springs loose.
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  #3  
Old 03/08/10, 07:43 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
Posts: 6,977
I don't know anything about Toyotas but on most vehicles you can release the springs and remove the wheel cyl. Neatness counts and you should be able to do t without making a mess. Is the cyl. leaking? Has it leaked on the shoes already? You are replacing both aren't you? I wouldn't just replace 1 unless it was a I'm broke or I'm dumping the car deal.
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  #4  
Old 03/08/10, 08:33 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: maine
Posts: 1,175
Yes the cyl. is leaking but doesn't appear to be any fluid on the shoes, thanks for the neatness tips, very important cause the shoes are in good shape. I am going to try releasing the springs and see if i can open the shoes enough to get the cyl. out. Got a few tips at the parts place this morning and thanks for yours too.
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  #5  
Old 03/08/10, 10:58 AM
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SE Washington
Posts: 1,406
If you go to autozone.com they have manuals online. All you have to do is register and you can view them.

Bobg
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  #6  
Old 03/08/10, 01:33 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Levittown, Bucks, Pennsylvania
Posts: 576
You should be able to release the springs and anything involved in the self adjusting mechanism. If it has been leaking, the friction material has been contaminated. You could try the non-ozone friendly version of brakeclean on the friction material. It would be a good idea to clean the whole area w/ either version of brakeclean.

When I was growing up working in a gas station, long b/4 you could buy brakeclean, the mechanic used to take a berzns o matic torch and flambe the friction material. You could see litle pinpoints of fire as the fluid came to the surface of the friction material. He would do this until there was no sign of burning fluid...I don't know if I would try this since a can of the chlorinated brakeclean is around $5 - $6...just don't breath the fumes...At least you won't burn down your garage & car!

These old guys always said your hands should be clean enough to eat dinner when you do brake work & would always clean all the springs, clips and hardware, as well as the backing plate, etc. b/4 putting it back together.
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  #7  
Old 03/08/10, 03:46 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: maine
Posts: 1,175
I think I'm in good shape to put it back together tomorrow when the cylinder comes in.
Once the springs were released it pretty much fell apart so everything is out of the way
to remove the old cylinder. Hardest part was freeing up the brake line. Not too big a job , have worked disc brakes some but never drum brakes. Using some brake clean on everything. Appreciate the input. You guys are great to have around.
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  #8  
Old 03/08/10, 06:43 PM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
Posts: 10,539
While you have the rear brakes under repair why not change the fluid in the hydraulic system of the brakes all the way around. Brake fluid has an affinity to water and that is where most master and wheel cylinders get contaminated creating the corrosion inside them. As a preventive maintenance service I change brake fluid and it certainly is worthwhile. I have not had a wheel or master cylinder problem in many years.
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