Fixing a clutch that hard?

Sparticle · #1 01/22/10, 06:01 PM

I'm back, ugh. We were going to sale the Ford Pickup truck for an older 4 wheel drive to work on the property. The clutch went out after hauling some beams and the mechanics are quoting us around $700. We have to save every penny. We have "how to" repair books and he's going through them now. How hard is it really for an amateur who has done minor repairs?

Here are the specs if it makes any difference:

2003 Ford Ranger 6 cylinder 2 wheel drive.

Are there any special tools? We don't have a lift and it would have to be on ramps, is there enough room?

It goes in gear when the engine is not running. When the engine was running, it would not go into gear. Now, when the engine is off and the clutch depressed; when the key is turned a little bit, the truck wants to move.

He's going to start by bleeding it. He's just now reading on how to fix it and doesn't know yet if the transmission has to come out as well.

Thanks for any advice.

plowjockey · #2 01/22/10, 06:52 PM

Did it just quit working? Usually a bad clutch will slip or make lots of noise before quitting.

It sounds like the clutch hydraulics quit working (they wear out).

It's just a simple slave-master hydraulic setup, that has a cylinder that is worked by the clutch pedal and another cylinder at the clutch bell housing, that moves the clutch throwout bearing.

Relativly easy and inexpensive to repair. I think you can look at it (at the transmission) and see it move, while someone is depressing the clutch pedal.

Look there first.

Beeman · #3 01/22/10, 07:59 PM

Clutch slave cylinder is on the frt. of the trans, pushes straight out moving the throwout bearing. Most leak badly and need replacing and can be tough to bleed sometimes. Trans and bellhousing are one piece. I've not done one of those but I have done some Ford Rangers with a V-6 where you have to physically raise the cab off of the chassis to remove the trans. If you go to the trouble of removing the trans, which is necessary to replace the slave cyl I would remove and closely inspect the clutch.

Depending on the size motor I looked quick and the clutch itself is as high as $250-$300, possibly more depending on brand and where you buy it. You'll also need the slave cyl. and or possibly the master cyl., possibly machine and shim flywheel and other incidentals. As a shop owner I didn't sell parts for cost or install customers parts.

Wis Bang 2 · #4 01/22/10, 09:11 PM

I have a '93 ranger w/ a 3.slow v-6. The trans is a Mazda design where the Bell Housing is part of the transmission housing casting. The slave is built in to the release bearing and is hidden inside the bell housing. The hydraulic line has a quick release so you can split it away @ the point where it enters the bell housing. I bought the truck w/ a bad trans. My neighbor pulled it w out having to do anything to the cab...it was a 4X4...

a Haynes manual will have instructions...

I've seen a clutch fail w/ out slipping; one of the center hub coil springs popped free and jammed the pressure plate so it wouldn't release...

Most clutch jobs require removal of the transmission. I had a Datsun F-10 [later Nissan 310] where they made it possible to R & R the clutch w/ out splitting the engine/transaxle but it was unique and this option disapeared as the 310 morphed into the pulsar.

Most FWD cars require removing the engine/ transaxle as a unit and splitting them on the bench...

agmantoo · #5 01/22/10, 10:36 PM

I changed a similar design in a F150. I have changed a number of clutches so I have experience. Parts for the hydraulics and the clutch itself were approximately $350. Taking the lines loose for the release bearing required a special tool and was a learning experience. A pilot shaft for accurately aligning the clutch was only a couple of dollars. I did need a floor jack to balance the transmission on as I removed and as I replaced it. Since the bellhousing is made to the transmission the entire arrangement is rather cumbersome. I was on a concrete floor and that helped. After i got the clutch reinstalled I was accustomed to setting release bearing free play and there was no adjustment and the release bearing was turning all the time. After wasting a lot of time I contacted a Ford trained mechanic and asked how to set the clearance and he informed me there is no adjustment and just let it rub. The truck has run enough to verify that the rubbing obviously was not a problem.

blufford · #6 01/23/10, 06:09 AM

Maybe you could buy the kit and put an ad in craigslist and offer a shade tree mechanic 75 or 100 dollars to install. You may want to wait until the old one is removed to see what parts you need. I know you want to save money but 700.00 doesn't sound too far out.

blufford · #7 01/23/10, 06:38 AM

Maybe these directions will bve some help.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...03_ford_ranger

swamp man · #8 01/23/10, 08:23 AM

Hiya, Sparticle.

These guys have been unbelievably helpful to me in keeping my Ranger alive....they know everything there is to know about these beasts.

Give 'em a try, and make sure to post your question on the "Ranger and B serise" forum.

Good luck.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php

HermitJohn · #9 01/23/10, 10:51 AM

That combo throw out bearing and slave cylinder was one of worst ideas far as somebody working on own vehicle. It made life easier on assembly line I suppose, but made repair more difficult and expensive. I've done clutch in early 90s Ranger with 4cyl for friend on my back in weeds. Ticks crawling up my leg were worst part.... If I were shade treeing for $, I wouldnt do it for less than $200(thats on cheap side) just for labor and owner buys parts and pays for turning flywheel including the drive to town to get it done. Sorry but $75 to $100 doesnt cut it anymore despite govt claiming inflation doesnt exist. That kind of money is what the local kid wants to mow a lawn anymore, not what you pay somebody with mechanical skills. Maybe $100 if it was a 1950s Chevy pickup with lots room and simple linkages and it takes me couple or three hours, but not on modern car.

Sparticle · #10 01/23/10, 03:27 PM

Thanks everybody. We're working on it.

fixer1958 · #11 01/23/10, 10:38 PM

I have put in about 50 or more clutches in rangers, lucky for you it's a 2wd.
Sounds like the slave cyl. is leaking and went dry. Sometimes you can refill the resv. and pump the living crap out of the pedal and bring it back. If the Master cylinder needs bled, thats a whole nother PITA. They don't make slave cyl. stop leak to my knowledge.

If you take the trans out you will need to take the exhaust loose at the manifolds. Beings an '03' you may not break the studs/bolts off. You will also need a 3' 3/8" extension to get the top bell housing bolts out or you can take the carpet out and there is a big removable floor pan around the shifter.

Drain the trans fluid before you start. It will be black/gray and have metal particles in it. Refill it with ATF.

On the ground it will be a tough job.

agmantoo · #12 01/24/10, 06:40 AM

fixer1958's post reminded me of something I did several years ago. I had a farm truck that the slave portion of the release bearing setup was leaking. I attribute that to the truck just sitting most of the time. I put a small amount of Lucas power steering stop leak in with the brake fluid and then I flushed some of the mixture through the system by bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Doing this worked OK as the leaking stopped after a few topping ups of the clutch master cylinder

Beeman · #13 01/24/10, 10:09 AM

What engine is in this? I see it's a V-6 but which one?

Remember that when the back goes down to allow the trans out the frt. will go up possibly breaking the shroud or fan. Also the back of the motr will hit the firewall breaking any plastic in it's way. Ramps may not give you enough height to allow the trans low enough as the bellhousing is pretty big. I have seen ramps flip sideways when horsing major components, I wouldn't use them.

fixer1958 · #14 01/24/10, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agmantoo

fixer1958's post reminded me of something I did several years ago. I had a farm truck that the slave portion of the release bearing setup was leaking. I attribute that to the truck just sitting most of the time. I put a small amount of Lucas power steering stop leak in with the brake fluid and then I flushed some of the mixture through the system by bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Doing this worked OK as the leaking stopped after a few topping ups of the clutch master cylinder

Lucas makes some pretty good stuff, but I didn't think it was that good.
Always reminded me of STP. I don't even know if they even make that anymore. My dad put it in everything but his coffee.