91 Isuzu Pup clutch questions - Homesteading Today
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  #1  
Old 01/17/09, 02:58 PM
 
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91 Isuzu Pup clutch questions

Its a 4 speed, no PS,, smallest engine they make. It has a cable running from clutch pedal to bell housing. BUT, on the L>S> in front, there is an hose running down straight to nothing that I can see, and theres oil all around it and under the oil pan. As the clutch was going out, I would have to push it in further and further to be able to shift till it finally stayed in. There is/was a noise when id either push in the clutch, or let it out. The pedal felt like the brake pedal when the break fluid is being pumped out by a leak. Whaddia think??
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  #2  
Old 01/17/09, 03:17 PM
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hydraulic assisted clutch? slow leak in a cracked hose followed by total failure of the hose?
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  #3  
Old 01/17/09, 06:59 PM
 
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No clue, but I can guess with the best. Some asian vehicles had a system where when you pressed the clutch and the brake then released the brake but held the clutch down it would keep the brakes applied until you released the clutch.
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  #4  
Old 01/17/09, 07:57 PM
 
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Beeman Brakes work fine, and it dosent have the system u descri

Its full of oil, and brake fluid. If it is a hydrolic clutch system they say there should be a type of slave cylender. but there isnt any on the firewall. Ive had the pk since spring and love it. Get 28 to 30 a gal
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  #5  
Old 01/18/09, 09:49 AM
 
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That vehicle has a cable and is not hydraulic. Either the cable or a pivot is broken or a retainer is loose
Here is the cable
http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...2087611TSK.JPG
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  #6  
Old 01/18/09, 10:21 AM
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I personally prefer cable or mechanical clutch linkages. Hydraulic really only an advantage on a vehicle where chassis flexes a lot such as 4wds used offroad.

The trick with a vehicle with cable clutch is to carry a spare. Usually easy enough to replace. It can leave you high and dry without a warning as cable stretch and failure is gradule and you wont notice. Old school mechanical linkages with rods and pivot between engine and frame rarely give trouble. At most they groan a bit if you dont lube the pivot. Hydraulic linkages usually give bit warning if you keep eye on resevoir, but sometimes can fail quickly and completely. They are ok to replace if you have external slave. Internal slave and its as bad as changing complete clutch which you just as well do while you have engine and tranny separated.
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  #7  
Old 01/18/09, 01:30 PM
 
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Agmantoo. The cables both are not broke. The swivel isnt either. I dont know about a retainer tho. Im getting a book on it, a clutch, throwout bearing, and pressure plate Monday.
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  #8  
Old 01/18/09, 01:55 PM
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I am thinking most cable linkages use clutch pivot arm and cable attaches externally to the arm on outside of the clutch bellhousing. Watch the arm movement while somebody else pushes the clutch. Cables dont have to break, they can stretch or few strands of cable break, etc. Enough so that pushing pedal no longer pulls arm far enough to disengage clutch. Or the cable can be broken inside but since the cable ends are still attached to pedal and pivot arm, they arent just going to fall out on the floor. I take it you havent actually removed the cable from the truck in order to actually be able to see if its broken.

Changing clutch cable not that hard as long as some yahoo engineer didnt design super tight clearances where you cant get wrench or fingers up to it. Jackass that designed the oem clutch setup on my Ranger used internal slave. You could bleed it if you could get to the external bleeder screws. However you couldnt get to the screws short of cutting an access hole in the cab floor. As I've said before double jointed midget mechanics should never find themselves unemployed the way modern vehicles are designed.

Oddly since I've replaced oem drivetrain with the 300, and using external hydraulic linkage, there is no problem getting access and nothing hanging down to get snagged or interfer with anything else. Simply better design by happenstance.
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  #9  
Old 01/18/09, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beeman View Post
No clue, but I can guess with the best. Some asian vehicles had a system where when you pressed the clutch and the brake then released the brake but held the clutch down it would keep the brakes applied until you released the clutch.
That's Subaru.

I haven't a clue what the hose is.
If it's a mechanical clutch, sounds like you ate all the fingers off the pressure plate.
But since you are doing a clutch anyhow, you will know when you get there.
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