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10/28/08, 11:38 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
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83 Isuzu P'up bleeding like stuck pig
The radiator has been weepy for some months, but now water just pours out of it. Only thing is, I can't figure out where it is leaking from. The hoses seem fine. It almost seems like where the fan stuff attaches to the engine block is where the problem is. Is this possible? Does bottled radiator stopleak gummy stuff do any good, or does it just make things worse? Should a radiator be rebuilt or completely replaced (which may be a problem given the age of the vehicle)? It is awfully rusty in there.
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10/29/08, 12:56 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: north central wv
Posts: 2,321
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The rad can be recored by a rad shop. You say it seems to be leaking where the fan attaches to the engine. Most likely the water pump and I wouldn't waste my time with stop leak. If there is a rad shop in your area or a good garage the shoule pressue test the system for you. good luck fixing it. Sam
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10/29/08, 08:37 AM
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Just howling at the moon
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 5,518
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Where the fan attaches to the engine.
That's where the water pump is and it has a weep hole in the bottom designed to leak when the bushings start to go out. Replace the water pump.
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If the grass looks greener it is probably over the septic tank. - troy n sarah tx
Our existance here is soley for the expoitation of CMG
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10/29/08, 10:02 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
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Thanks, folks! Water pump. How big a job is that?
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10/30/08, 09:33 AM
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Just howling at the moon
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 5,518
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Not too big. Usually depends on how much other stuff you need to remove to get to it. Haven't worked on Izuzu's but a D-50 took 15 minutes while a jeep grand wagoneer took me about 4 hours.
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If the grass looks greener it is probably over the septic tank. - troy n sarah tx
Our existance here is soley for the expoitation of CMG
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10/30/08, 10:55 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mid-Michigan
Posts: 1,526
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Yep it really depends on the car. On a chevy truck I can change it in 10 minutes. I've done some front wheel drive cars that took hours due to access problems. Given the age of the truck I would guess it won't be too bad but may be hard to find the part. Actually I just checked on Autozone's website and they stock the pump in stores. I don't suggest getting it from autozone necessarilly as their parts aren't the best quality but if they stock it most other stores will as well.
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10/30/08, 01:07 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,688
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Usually more problem with Autozone starters and alternators than anything else, but if it ends up being big pain to replace something you might want to consider buying from NAPA or other higher quality store. Though NAPA is selling lot more China stuff to keep competitive on price.
If you use the paper gasket included with the pump, seal it good both sides with silicone and let cure overnight before adding coolant back to radiator. Personally I like to cut my own gasket out of an old inner tube for water pumps, goose necks, other cooling system stuff. Tighten bolts until it start to squeeze out a bit and voila, its instantly sealed no silicone or other stuff needed. I'm only person I know still doing this, havent seen anybody else do it since I was a kid on the farm. Old farmers were a thrifty sort and used what they had on hand, occasionally such methods were better way of doing it than what the stores sold even without figuring in cost.
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"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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10/30/08, 01:14 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,688
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By way though its very unlikely to be your radiator, usually cheapest just to buy a new radiator at a parts store if you need one. Or on ebay. Lot of radiator shops dont mess with small raidators anymore, though some will custom build you a copper/brass radiator from scratch. newer radiators are plastic with aluminum core and not repairable by anybody. If possible I'd replace such a plastic radiator with an all aluminum radiator, they are showing up on the aftermarket for lot of vehicles and at a very reasonable price. I bought one this summer for my Ford Ranger engine swap project. Now they are selling even cheaper of coursse..... Way it always seems to go.
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"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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10/30/08, 05:08 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
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How long can I limp along with the water pump going kaput? I mean if I refill the radiator every 15 miles or so...Am I courting total disaster?
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10/30/08, 08:46 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: west virginia
Posts: 9
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I do not agree with recommendation of inner tube gasket. Firstly, it is too thick, and will put pump impeller in the wrong place in its chamber, which will reduce flow. Second, being soft it will compress under the bolts, and allow the housing to distort or break. Third, tightening the bolts only enough to start the rubber bulging will not put enough tension in the bolts to prevent them from loosening later.
The key to good sealing with a thin gasket is good, flat, clean, ungouged, uncorroded surfaces. If you have those, then more than the thinnest film of "goop" you can spread on with fingertip, will only bulge out both inside and outside,and perhaps cause trouble.
I make a lot of gaskets of paper or thin cardboard (like cereal-box), then soak the gasket until thoroughly saturated with linseed oil.
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10/30/08, 09:34 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
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As it is a diesel, naturally, it is the more expensive pump 
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10/31/08, 05:50 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subfarm
I do not agree with recommendation of inner tube gasket. Firstly, it is too thick, and will put pump impeller in the wrong place in its chamber, which will reduce flow. Second, being soft it will compress under the bolts, and allow the housing to distort or break. Third, tightening the bolts only enough to start the rubber bulging will not put enough tension in the bolts to prevent them from loosening later.
The key to good sealing with a thin gasket is good, flat, clean, ungouged, uncorroded surfaces. If you have those, then more than the thinnest film of "goop" you can spread on with fingertip, will only bulge out both inside and outside,and perhaps cause trouble.
I make a lot of gaskets of paper or thin cardboard (like cereal-box), then soak the gasket until thoroughly saturated with linseed oil.
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Inner tubes come in different thicknesses though you'd have to use some freakily heavy duty tube to get enough thickness to make any real difference. Never had a bolt loosen, the tube squeezed produces enough tension. Each to their own, I have had 100% success over many decades with inner tube gaskets on both aluminum and cast iron engines, not one gave me slightest problem, no bolts coming loose or stripping out, no leaks, but then I am sure you know best and my use of inner tube material for gaskets was huge mistake all that time and I should have used oil soaked Rice Crispy boxes....
What I have had problems with are cheap factory made cardboard/treated paper gaskets. Quality can range from usable to pure carp. Always some manufacturer trying to cut costs to save that last half penny.
Back in 80s there was even a period where it was impossible to buy a decent carb kit, the bowl gaskets were all carp and would absorb gas and leak. Tried several brands, even NAPA kits were carp, kit JCWhitney sold was only one with good gaskets. I found a source for high quality felpro gasket material in bulk (not that consumer carp sold in little rolls in parts stores) and had to make my own as JCW was mail order and took weeks to get. Finally carb kit makers started using decent quality materials again by the 90s.
__________________
"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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10/31/08, 06:19 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozy
As it is a diesel, naturally, it is the more expensive pump |
And thats reason enough to fix it! I wonder what the final price on this one will be?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-...=p4506.c0.m245
Last edited by blufford; 10/31/08 at 06:39 PM.
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11/01/08, 05:15 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
Posts: 8,706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozy
Since it is the weekend and I still have to get around, a friend told me that if I left the radiator cap off so that pressure would not force fluid out and checked frequently to be sure the fluid level was topped off, that I should be ok. So I did this yesterday. And he was right. The fluid level remained high, and the engine did not overheat.
Why is it I need a water pump at all?...
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..............Given the fact winter is almost here , why not get your radiator rodded out and checked for leaks , pickup and install new pump , hoses , thermostat and install your radiator and be done with it . Whole cheaper than having to rebuild a diesel ! , fordy 
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11/01/08, 05:42 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
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The other reason I am not sprinting to the auto parts store is the complete absence of income. (Minor detail, I know, but rather large on my personal horizon....)
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11/01/08, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
Posts: 8,706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozy
The other reason I am not sprinting to the auto parts store is the complete absence of income. (Minor detail, I know, but rather large on my personal horizon....)
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...............Well , I for one am more than willing too $$ if several others are as well . Parts should be less than $200. Getting your radiator rodded out and pressure tested shouldn't be over 65 or so , so labor will be the largest factor , UNle$$ you know someone who can walk you thru the mechanical processes involved . Make a list of the cost(s) involved and we'll go from there . , fordy
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11/01/08, 07:57 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordy
...............Well , I for one am more than willing too $$ if several others are as well . Parts should be less than $200. Getting your radiator rodded out and pressure tested shouldn't be over 65 or so , so labor will be the largest factor , UNle$$ you know someone who can walk you thru the mechanical processes involved . Make a list of the cost(s) involved and we'll go from there . , fordy |
WOW! That is so kind of you to offer! 
But I can't just take money from strangers like that (even homesteadingtoday e-buddies)...but I would be happy to send you some tea in exchange. I have wonderful teas. Let me know what kind of tea you like or someone you'd like to give a gift to might like, and I'll send you what I have that would suit. I have lots of tea.
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11/02/08, 09:18 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Whiskey Flats(Ft. Worth) , Tx
Posts: 8,706
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..............Snoozy , I sent you a PM ! , fordy
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11/02/08, 11:03 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Kitsap Co, WA
Posts: 3,025
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Thermostat was recently replaced. The hoses seem fine, but I couldn't tell you how old they are. When you say "rodded out", do you mean flushed?
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