Cub Cadet HDS 2185

Brian N.E Ohio · #1 08/05/08, 08:38 PM

The electric pto disengaged while I was mowing. I looked at the dash and noticed the amp light was on. I just finished my mid season maintainence on this machine (clean up, sharpen blades, lubricate,etc.) and was mowing about an hour when this happened. I noticed a little corrosion on the battery terminals so tomorrow I will start going over the wires and clean connections at the grounds, battery, starter and anywhere else the red wires go.If that fails where do I go next?
This machine was purchased new about 12 years ago but only shows 231 hours, It has been garage kept and well maintained. I have never had to troubleshoot a charging system on a lawn tractor and I dont have a repair manual for this particular machine.
I consider myself a passable backyard mechanic as long as I dont have to enter the major assemblies. Anything bolted on is fair game.

Thanks in advance.

agmantoo · #2 08/05/08, 09:08 PM

I repaired an Allis Chalmers with this problem just last week. The PTO ceased when the battery voltage dropped after the small rectifier/regulator failed. On that engine it was a small square shaped heat sink with wires going to it from under the flywheel. It was a rather simpler bolt on repair costing $40+. The part was bought off the net and the part number was located by using the engine model. Look here and determine what the item looks like and locate it on your machine. Get the part number and you should find one on ebay.
http://search.ebay.com/search/search...ier&category0=

Brian N.E Ohio · #3 08/06/08, 04:44 PM

I cleaned the easily visable wire connections and the battery terminals. I dont think there was not enough corrosion on the battery to cause all my problems so I took it to have it load tested wich failed. It was 5 years old.(I put it on a trickle charger all night and the LED's on the charger claimed it was a full charge this morning).
I'm still not sure that is all my problems. Its just not makeing sense to me. Every battery that has failed on me failed when I tried to start the tractor, not while it was running.

agmantoo,
the engine I'm working on is a 18 hp. HORIZONTAL shaft magnum Kohler engine but I think you knew that. What engine was on the Allis Chalmers?

What are the chances that a bad battery could cause all my symptoms??

agmantoo · #4 08/06/08, 05:09 PM

I did not have enough information to get the exact data for your engine. These engines and components seem to be similar so I provided the link to info you . The battery is maintained by a stator mounted under the flywheel. This is actually an alternator making AC. The AC is converted to DC by the rectifier(s) and then the DC is controlled by the regulator to charge the battery. At this time I have a Honda that has the problem and the parts are very expensive. The Kohler is much cheaper to repair. I did read a statement on the Allis Chalmers when I was researching that the machine was not to be jump started. Jump starting would destroy the rectifier/regulator according to the manufacturer. The average life of a battery is somewhere around 32 months and seldom is replaced until it fails. Attempting to get a longer life from a dying battery is very detrimental to the charging circuit and the starting system. I have not been totally capable of following your comments but I stick by by original statement that the battery is discharging and the PTO is dropping out due to low voltage as the battery dies because the charging system on the machine has failed.
PS...once started and the PTO activated I would think the PTO would stay engaged provided the charging system is functioning regardless of the battery charge. However, a good battery will continue to discharge and fail if the machine is operated with a defective rectifier/regulator and there remains a drain such as the PTO. Once the drain drops the voltage to some point the PTO will drop out due to low voltage. Try the tractor without a replacement rectifier/regulator. Take a voltage reading on the battery before you start the machine and take a voltage reading after you finish the task. The voltage should be equal or higher at the end of the task provided the system is charging. The amp light on tells you there is more power leaving the battery than is being delivered to the battery. The charging system has failed!

Brian N.E Ohio · #5 08/06/08, 08:38 PM

You have done well for me agmantoo and your comments make good sense. I will check battery voltage before starting and while running tomorrow and will report back. After the battery is replaced! I have never pulled the flywheel on this machine and I'm not looking forward to it. Maybe I'll get lucky and the battery will fix it.

Brian N.E Ohio · #6 08/06/08, 08:43 PM

agmantoo,
Is there a test for the rectifier that I or the shop could do before I replace it? A few bucks for a test I can handle, the money for parts will be painfull, a trip to the shop just isnt in the budget right now.

agmantoo · #7 08/06/08, 10:01 PM

You do not have to pull the flywheel to get to the rectifier/regulator on the small engines I have worked on. I have not been able to access a schematic of the device either. On the Allis Chalmers the rectifier/regulator appeared fine, on the Honda the backside was charred and the unit really did stink. I would not hesitate to by a new rectifier/regulator off the internet, ebay would be my first look see to get an idea of the price then I might buy from a dealer in small engine parts. I doubt that anyone will permit the return of an electrical part. The stator, the part under the flywheel is less likely to be at fault but they do fry also. You should be able to read an AC voltage if you knew which wires to read. I think there will be 3 legs of AC off most stators. I am not real skilled at working on these. It is just a coincidence that I have had two in a matter of days. I detest working on small engines! Just not my thing.

Brian N.E Ohio · #8 08/20/08, 01:53 PM

Sorry I havent been back to the board but I have good news and bad news. First the bad news is that my volt meter has gone missing and I cant provide actual voltages. The good news is that the new battery seems to have fixed the problem. After nearly 3 hours of mowing and another 3 pulling a lawn rake I can report that everything seems to be fine.
I seems that somthing was wrong in the chargeing system but that the something was a battery that would not accept the charge provided. I never had a battery fail before while a machine was running befor but I wont look a gift horse in the mouth. Must have been the heat or the vibration that killed it. Dont really care, The battery was only 25 dollars and less that ten minutes to replace.

Thanks agmantoo for your help and opinions.

Brian N.E Ohio · #9 08/26/08, 02:36 PM

I wanted to let others know that I was able to take voltage readings with a borrowed volt meter. Voltage across the battery terminals at rest now measures 12.8 volts. With the engine running it shows 14.26.

I hope this will help someone else, I know there are a lot of these and similar machines in use. This is the first battery that has failed on me in use.

Thanks