1967 Chevy Pickup Question

Gregg Alexander · #1 06/24/08, 07:36 PM

I cleared some land for a lady a couple of weeks ago. And when running my dozer I found a 1967 Chevy Pickup covered in brush. I cleared out around it and pushed it into the pasture out of the way.
Truck looks like it could be restored, paint and little bondo, and the body would be in good shape.
What about the motor, brakes, wireing, ect. The truck has 19947 4/10 miles on it. I asked her whose truck it was and she said it was her uncles , he bought it new in 1967, book is in the glove box. She wants to give me the truck for some of the dozer work. Would it cost a bundle of $ to fix up just to drive around ?

OntarioMan · #2 06/24/08, 09:57 PM

Alabama - so I'm guessing the truck has little to no rust on it. Motor, brakes and wiring can all be repaired or replaced for very reasonable amounts of money. If its a half ton, those are nice trucks, and quite popular among truck restorers and rodders.

19947 miles ? If that is correct, you've found yourself a bit of a diamond in the rough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregg Alexander

I cleared some land for a lady a couple of weeks ago. And when running my dozer I found a 1967 Chevy Pickup covered in brush. I cleared out around it and pushed it into the pasture out of the way.
Truck looks like it could be restored, paint and little bondo, and the body would be in good shape.
What about the motor, brakes, wireing, ect. The truck has 19947 4/10 miles on it. I asked her whose truck it was and she said it was her uncles , he bought it new in 1967, book is in the glove box. She wants to give me the truck for some of the dozer work. Would it cost a bundle of $ to fix up just to drive around ?

pitbulls20 · #3 06/24/08, 10:00 PM

well that really depends on what is wrong with it. I bought my 78 F250 for $800 and now $4,000 later it is almost very dependable. The most important is drivetrain. If the engine and tranny are good condition then maybe it won't cost too much to get running. If it has been sitting a long time like 1+ year you may have to do some tune up to the engine to get it to run.

Personally I would take a 67 Chevy for free any day. I think they look amazing and you should be able to find parts for it pretty easy.

Up North · #4 06/24/08, 10:58 PM

Throw a good battery in it and determine if the engine turns or if it is seized.
Check for wasps or hornets nest first.

haypoint · #5 06/25/08, 12:00 AM

On a 5 digit odometer, it'll never show 100,000 miles. That 19947 miles could be 119947 or 219947. Seems like the Chevy half tons of that era had coil springs in the back, with trailing arms to hold the back axle. Up north, rust would have overtaken those trailing arms. If it has set more than a decade, you are looking at a set up engine. Easy to rebuild the engine, but a rebuild kit plus all the nesessary machining will cost as much as buying a rebuilt engine. Doubt he quit driving it while it was running fine.

**clovis** · #6 06/25/08, 01:02 AM

Could be a steal.

I still wouldn't give alot for it, but I sure would be interested in getting it!

If you could live with an inline 6 cylinder, they are still pretty easy to find, with 3 speed manual tranny's still attached. Alot of hot rodders have yanked the running 6 cylinders for V8's.

I saw a guaranteed non-smoking, no knock, hear-it-before-you-buy-it, low mileage 250 sell on ebay for $125 a month ago. Came with a 3 speed manual.

I would also worry about the hassle of getting a title. It can be a nightmare in Indiana, so I hear. Might call your BMV. Might be a cake walk. Either way, get a bill of sale from her!!!!!

Parts are plentiful, and pretty cheap.

Are you doing the work yourself?

Clove

Gregg Alexander · #7 06/25/08, 04:09 AM

The truck is a long wheel base, 6 cyl, 3 speed tran. I am going to tow to my cuz shop this weekend . The last time it was drove was in 1984.

pitbulls20 · #8 06/25/08, 01:05 PM

Lets see some pics

Windy in Kansas · #9 06/25/08, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Up North

Throw a good battery in it and determine if the engine turns or if it is seized.
Check for wasps or hornets nest first.

I hope that you will allow me to disagree with this avenue of checking for a seized engine.

It would be better to remove all spark plugs and attempt to turn the engine over by hand. I did that with a Chevy 6 and was quite glad I had as there was a stuck valve. Had I turned it with the starter something would have broken and would have probably done a lot of damage. By hand I was able to determine that the engine wouldn't make a revolution without a piston hitting the valve. Using PB Blaster on the valve train and stem relieved the problem.

You most certainly came across a desirable truck in today's market. You can probably note the wear on the clutch and brake pads/pedals to determine if the mileage is accurate or if it is more likely that plus 100,000. There are other tell tale signs as well.

As to wiring it would be simple, especially if you don't wire up more than necessary.

Should make a wonderful truck worth some investment in order to save on vehicle taxes. At least if your area is like Kansas where we pay taxes on a vehicle until it is salvaged.

Light green or light blue? just a guess.

pitbulls20 · #10 06/25/08, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windy in Kansas

I hope that you will allow me to disagree with this avenue of checking for a seized engine.

It would be better to remove all spark plugs and attempt to turn the engine over by hand. I did that with a Chevy 6 and was quite glad I had as there was a stuck valve. Had I turned it with the starter something would have broken and would have probably done a lot of damage. By hand I was able to determine that the engine wouldn't make a revolution without a piston hitting the valve. Using PB Blaster on the valve train and stem relieved the problem.

I would have to agree with Windy. I haven't had to do it myself but I have seen it suggested when a vehicle has been sitting up a long time. Minimal work to possibly save alot of time and money.

That I know of in alabama we don't pay a constant tax. Just maybe something when the tag expires.

crehberg · #11 06/25/08, 06:00 PM

All I've got to say is I hope you have fun with the project and I can't wait to see some pics!!!!

Gregg Alexander · #12 06/25/08, 06:39 PM

Will try and get some pictures this weekend. I was looking at the motor this afternoon and took the fan off, took the spark plugs out and was able to turn the motor over, I would say if I put fluids in, hook a new battery up and pour some gas in I will see if it fires off and runs.

agmantoo · #13 06/25/08, 08:05 PM

Give each cylinder a couple of squirts of oil while you have the plugs out. In so doing the pistons will seal better and pull gas into each cylinder as well as lubricating the rings and cylinder walls. Do not initially try for a start. Take the distributor wire off and turn the engine until you get oil pressure the put the wire back. You will want to clean the fuel lines and remove any old gas or water from the fuel tank. Probably the fuel pump diaphragm will rupture and you may have to buy a fuel pump. I would also install an inline fuel filter from the fuel tank to the carb. PS...The first chance you get and days prior to attempting to start the engine get a can of carb cleaner and remove the air cleaner and douse the inside of the carb with a lot of the cleaner. Additionally I am rather paranoid and therefore I would remove the valve cover and verify that each valve would move as I rotated the engine by hand. Going forward patiently will have its reward. Do not rush into running the engine.

Up North · #14 06/26/08, 09:44 AM

Windy - My thought was that prior to investing energy or time in moving vehicle, one could ascertain if engine was seized before deciding to accept truck as partial payment for bulldozer work. My idea was to just turn engine enough to determine if seized,(a quick bump). Not to attempt to start or run engine.
On reflection I can see that your method is the better approach.

**clovis** · #15 06/26/08, 09:58 AM

I agree, put some squirts of oil in each cylinder before firing. It will also help to keep the walls from scoring if there is any rust or dirt.

Windy in Kansas · #16 06/26/08, 02:38 PM

One can most generally tell if an engine is seized by pushing on the side of the fan belt to keep out slack and then turn the engine by the fan. Push on the belt hard because once the fan slips it is hard to regain control.

The truck I mentioned was checked that way before purchase, it was after I got it home that I found the stuck valve.

marvella · #17 06/26/08, 03:17 PM

i can't help it... this reminds me of the jeff foxworthy joke... you might be a redneck if you mow your yard and find a car. LOL!!!

Windy in Kansas · #18 06/26/08, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marvella

i can't help it... this reminds me of the jeff foxworthy joke... you might be a redneck if you mow your yard and find a car. LOL!!!

With Kudzu growing in the south as it does no telling what pristine vehicles might be found lurking in the undergrowth. Keeping ahead of its growth to salvage one might be another thing however.

haypoint · #19 06/27/08, 10:52 AM

Agmantoo has some good advice. The gas needs to be cleaned out and new put in. I'd hesitate about pulling the Dist. unless you knew what you were doing. Too often people get the Dist. back in off a gear or two or 180 degrees off. But it is the only way to get oil in to everything before firing it up.
If you are running low on drama, get someone to tow you at about 50 MPH, stick it in second gear, pump the gas pedal and pop the clutch. YeeHa.

OntarioMan · #20 06/27/08, 12:00 PM

After 24 years of that vehicle not being run - and if there was any gas in the system when it was parked - every fuel line, filter, carb etc. will most likely be clogged solid.

Lots to do before you even try to fire a vehicle which has been sitting that long.

Another thing to consider is severe dry rot on the tires - so I'd probably only trailer the vehicle and not tow it.