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  #1  
Old 03/31/07, 01:45 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 694
4 wheeler carb

I have a kaw 300 Boyu(sp) 4 x 4 that will not run half decent until it has set and ideled at a high setting for 5-10 min. regardless of the ambient temperature of operation.
Then when I do run it I have to modulate between to throddle and the chocke to keep it running.
I think the problem is in the carb.
Not being a mechanic - does the carb have an adjustment(s); or do I have look to rebuild the carb; or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 03/31/07, 08:21 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: wyoming/ now tennessee
Posts: 559
I just found out about some awsome stuff. It's called LUCAS additive for gas engines. I got mine at walmart, about $4.00. Most parts stores around here carry it. I used it on my lawn mower. It was running about the same way. I had to run about a half a tank of gas through it. But it cleaned out the mower and it runs great. I also used it in my 99 explorer. It has 155,000 miles on it and needed alittle help on acceleration.Made a world of difference. Just add according to info on bottle.
The four wheeler might just have set and the carborator varnished up with gas.
I had a chattering in my transmission when it shifted into drive.Automatic. I took off the pan and drained the torque converter and tranny. Put in another LUCAS additive for trannys. It has not done the chattering and stopped the constant shifting in and out of overdrive like it used to. I done this on the advice of a ford mechanic of over 40 years. I used the gas additive, because I figured it might be as good as the tranny stuff.
Ever fall when you store the four wheeler, if you do. Add STABIL according to directions. I do it to all my small engines.
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  #3  
Old 03/31/07, 09:38 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
Posts: 6,977
Quote:
Originally Posted by doc623
I have a kaw 300 Boyu(sp) 4 x 4 that will not run half decent until it has set and ideled at a high setting for 5-10 min. regardless of the ambient temperature of operation.
Then when I do run it I have to modulate between to throddle and the chocke to keep it running.
I think the problem is in the carb.
Not being a mechanic - does the carb have an adjustment(s); or do I have look to rebuild the carb; or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Thanks in advance.
I do not know much about your particular 4 wheeler but internal combustion and carbs are basically all the same principle. From what you describe it sounds like you definetly have a fuel problem. Start at the beginning of the fuel trail and go from there. First be sure you have plenty of known good fuel. Then be sure your fuel cap vent is clear and working as no fuel will flow if it's plugged. Next chech the fuel shutoff valve to see if fuel is flowing freely, inside the valve is usually a screen filter that requires maintenance, remove it and clean it if it has one. Next check for an inline fuel filter and make sure it's clear. After all of that if it's still giving you trouble it's time to read the manual and work on the carb.
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  #4  
Old 03/31/07, 10:17 PM
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: southern Michigan
Posts: 162
Kaws are notorious for being lean. I would suggest rasing the needle in your carb about .040 they are set lean to meet emmissions and they don't seem to care that people live in different elevations. my Kaw had the same issue. it was so lean it was backfiring back threw the carb. once the jetting got tweeked it was fine. most of the kaw factory jets don't have clip settings so I used a poprivit washer to shim up the needle.
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