complicated car battery problem or something else

unregistered5595 · #1 10/24/06, 07:35 PM

Thank you good folks for being here all the time.
Here is my problem.
The car, 92 Buick Regal, has a battery, 5 year warranty not to the end of year 2.
I had problems with the driver's window two years ago when I replaced the old battery.
since then, the window has seals that moved and maybe they moved into bad places, now the driver's side window (electric) won't work.
Since that time, the water pump belt went and I had it put in again. So I might be looking at a water pump (I have no idea) or an alternator (no idea again).
My driver's window is now stuck closed and the seals around it are not where they should be. When I press the electric controls for that window, my radio and speedometer controls dim. I think my battery is low. I have a charger if need be but so far so good--I drive around 20 miles to work each day. What do you think is causing this problem? Should I focus on the seals that might be causing problems with the windows or electrical problems with the battery? Any help is surely appreciated. Thank you so much in advance, ~Feather

cheapskate · #2 10/24/06, 07:48 PM

Electrical related issues could be due to a faulty ground. Try these things and see if it helps.

1) Clean the battery posts and cable ends very well.
2) Clean the end of the negative cable (-) where it is attached to the car.
3) Possibly replace the positive ( + ) because sometimes it is corroded inside where you can't see it.

Good Luck!

**Ross** · #3 10/24/06, 08:04 PM

I think the seals may well be your problem, I have a 91 Regal and thankfully the seals stay put but I'll keep that i mind. Can you see any place where the seal is doubled over? Never had the door panel off so I can't suggest what to look for under that!

rambler · #4 10/24/06, 08:26 PM

I'm not really following how the water pump is involved in any of this - or exactly what problem you are having....

Anyhow, the issue seems to be that the car works good, except when you try to move the window, it dims some other electrical items. The window seals are messed up.

That is the sum total of the problem? If I understand you?

Get the seals fixed. Don't play with the window button _any_ more or you will wreck $$$$ window mechanism or $$$ electric motor.

As the window motor struggles to move the window, it draws more amps than it should, and this dims other things. That is 90% probably the problem. (I'm surprised a fuse doesn't blow if you are drawing enough amps to dim other things.....)

As with any electrical issue, there is that 10% chance it is something else, and in rare cases it is a really, really odd thing..... As the other person mentioned, check all the grounds & wires - with 12v setups a good clean tight ground wire connection is very important. It is possible a poor ground is part of the problem, causing the other items to dim when amps are used by the wondow motor.

In any case, the seals are causing you problems & will wreck more stuff if left bad, so you need them fixed. Once they are out, you can see if there is more to the problem or not.

--->Paul

wilderness1989 · #5 10/24/06, 09:51 PM

Maybe it's the muffler bearings, doesn't the water pump have something to do with them???? :baby04:

unregistered5595 · #6 10/25/06, 06:49 AM

Thanks wilderness, you are a gem, bless your heart, wonders never cease, you are brilliant..........who would have thought you could be so helpful

Thank you to the rest of you for the suggestions on possible fixes. The seal at the bottom of the window is slid back toward the back of the car about an inch--but not doubled over. I haven't opened up the door panel but I will be opening it up soon. The car isn't starting as quickly as it has in the past and my concern with the battery is that the lights dim over something like the window switch. I'll check the connections. I'll let you know how the fix goes, thanks again. ~Feather

HermitJohn · #7 10/25/06, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilderness1989

Maybe it's the muffler bearings, doesn't the water pump have something to do with them???? :baby04:

And here I thought it was the tailpipe windings or the brake rheostats?

unregistered5595 · #8 10/25/06, 06:24 PM

Awe Hermit John, who would have thought you had the answer to my tail pipe windings or rheostats problems? I'm forever greatful! If you ever need any help in my areas of expertise, computers, cooking, baking, quilting, sewing, tailoring, soapmaking, nutrition, parenting, communication, Sarbanes Oxley, or being nice, please feel free to call me at _________ and I'll help in anyway I can--after I finish painting my nails and putting peroxide on my hair. Hugs, ~Feather

Dial A Prayer: 812-473-7729

**Ross** · #9 10/26/06, 07:10 AM

Nice come back(s) Feather. Be nice guys.

jefferson · #10 10/26/06, 10:42 AM

Aw, come on Ross. I was just about to ask about which grease to use on those muffler bearings.

mightybooboo · #11 10/26/06, 11:27 AM

You know they make silicone blinker fluid now,lasts 3 times longer than the old stuff...

BooBoo

swamp man · #12 10/26/06, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Feather In The Breeze

Thank you good folks for being here all the time.
Here is my problem.
The car, 92 Buick Regal, has a battery, 5 year warranty not to the end of year 2.
I had problems with the driver's window two years ago when I replaced the old battery.
since then, the window has seals that moved and maybe they moved into bad places, now the driver's side window (electric) won't work.
Since that time, the water pump belt went and I had it put in again. So I might be looking at a water pump (I have no idea) or an alternator (no idea again).
My driver's window is now stuck closed and the seals around it are not where they should be. When I press the electric controls for that window, my radio and speedometer controls dim. I think my battery is low. I have a charger if need be but so far so good--I drive around 20 miles to work each day. What do you think is causing this problem? Should I focus on the seals that might be causing problems with the windows or electrical problems with the battery? Any help is surely appreciated. Thank you so much in advance, ~Feather

I would think that you're looking at a couple of unrelated problems.
If you are seeing dimming when you try to operate the window motor,my suspicioon would be a mechanical problem with the window.It might not be positioned properly in the tracks,or some of the guts may be in need of lubrication.I would at least check out the mechanical operations before replacing anything electrical.
Not sure how long your window has been in the "up"position,but those seals are old enough to be somewhat deteriorated,and when they start to go,they can be very sticky,especially if the weather was warm while the window was up.I have seen this actually"glue"a window into place.You may want to get that thin,almost gone sliver of soap from the bathroom,slide it in between the window and seal,and work it all around the perimeter of the window,inside and out.If it's just stuck,that should clear it up.Place the palm of your hand on the inside of the window while operating the button,and gently pull down,being careful not to push outward too much.If that doesn't do it,I'd go ahead and remove the door panel,and give the mechanical parts a careful inspection.
I'm not very familiar with that model car,but I'd guess that it has a serpentine belt,being one belt that operates most everything.Since it was replaced a while back,and you think your battery isn't being charged properly,there's a possibility that the new belt has stretched,is slipping,thus not spinning the alternator at the necessary RPM.Push/pull on the belt,and see if it feels loose.If it easily flexes more than about a half inch,that might be the problem.Again,I aint familiar with that car,but the belt tension adjustment is most likely attached to the alternator,and are fairly self explainatory.Look for a nut and bolt that runs through an arch shaped slit.If it's loose,DISCONNECT THE BATTERY,loosen the nut,use a tire iron or something to pry(not too hard)on the alternator,and tighten the bolt while the belt is under tension.Careful not to tighten the bolt too much,as most alternators are cased with cheap pot metal,and the threads will strip VERY easily.
Give that a shot,and get back to us.Good luck.

unregistered5595 · #13 10/26/06, 01:23 PM

Thanks Swamp man--The serpentine (yep) belt did come off last summer so we'll be checking that tonight too. It does work with just about everything.
The window has only been stuck for a couple weeks now.... laterz

I love my car

unregistered5595 · #14 11/06/06, 06:02 PM

I had the oil changed and they checked the car over and they said the window was stuck closed!! WHO KNEW? Anyways, they recommended I replace the serpentine belt (no I did not tell them of any problems--they noticed all on their own) because it was worn and needed to be replaced, so they did that. All my power problems are gone, lights don't dim anymore. I still need to work on the window, I'll get there, it was a busy week-end.

Bearfootfarm · #15 11/07/06, 11:47 AM

Try some spray on Silicone lubricant on the window seals. It dries completely, unlike an oil, but is almost as slippery.

unregistered5595 · #16 11/07/06, 03:00 PM

These past two days the weather was in the 50's and voila, my window opened!!! So, I won't close it until I've adjusted the seal, and used some soap or silicone spray on it. Hopefully the seal can get back into it's original position!
Thanks for all the help and the jokes, we would be a good bunch to tip a few beers together. ha ha ~Feather

Cosmic · #17 11/15/06, 11:13 AM

Well it can be the battery in a weird way. Some of these new batteries are junk.

I replaced the battery and then started having problems with my automatic seatbelts. Duh, if I cycled the door switch with my finger a few times and then shut the door, it would sometimes work. Then I noticed it was also dependent on outside temperature. So your mention of ambient temperature affecting operation might be something similar.

I finally ran the problem down to a crap battery design. I have gone thru 3 of them on warranty in a little less than two years. They are sealed battery(s) and I suspect the acid is not the right strength by design. If you put the battery on the charger and raise battery voltage the seatbelt will work. Points to either the motor relay or battery. I suspect it is a little of both, plus an aged electrical system in general.

Sort of kinda solved the problem until I buy a new car by putting the battery on a solar maintainer. Seems to like that. Seat belt is still spasitic.

But yes, a fellar does have to check the muffler bearings, rotor windings and such to include the water pump intakes. Not everything makes total sense sometimes.

Yours probably may be voltage regulation related or be a relay that is on the verge of failure. Being temperature dependent sort of points to the relay but strangely enough it also can be the battery / aging electrical / alternator. You tend to think with the engine running it should not matter but problems don't always make sense.

If you can get the motor / relay exposed and tap on them while trying to activate it can sometimes help to find the offending critter. A new relay probably would help for starters.