Removing stuborn screws

diane · #1 09/22/06, 08:45 PM

My dear husband passed away recently and I am trying to do this homestead thing on my own. I have a wood cookstove that I dearly love but the chimney needs cleaning. There is a pan type thing that comes off so you can put the bush up into the pipe. It is held in place by two screws. I have reamed on those stinkers and can not seem to loosen them no matter what I do. Any suggestions?? I have even considered cutting the heads off and figuring out another way to hold the cap in place. Would that be a viable option?

Beststash · #2 09/22/06, 09:21 PM

Diane - Are the screws Phillips head or slotted?? If Phillips have you rounded off the slots trying to get them out?? Either way, first take some wd-40 or penetrating oil and put a little on them - wait a bit and then see if you can grab the heads with a pair of pliers and turn them - if you can just take your time and back them out and then replace them with new ones.

If it is past that point - let us know.

Columbia,SC. · #3 09/22/06, 09:52 PM

There are a couple of things you could try along with the WD-40. Take a hammer and put the screw driver in the screw, tap it a few times with the hammer, how firm is acording to how strong the metal is that the screws are in. If that does not work you can buy a screw extracor (spc) and it drills into the screw head the direction that the screw needs to come out. Always remember,, lefty loosey, righty tighty~
Good luck and God Bless.

agmantoo · #4 09/22/06, 10:01 PM

Diane, I think those are just sheet metal screws. Often when used to hold thin metal together the screw will be screwed in so far that the thread up near the head gets stripped and the screw will neither tighten nor loosen. The trick to get the screw out is to turn the screw CCW while holding a knife blade between the screw head and the sheetmetal. This prying action will often cause the thread to get a bite and thus enable you to remove it.

Columbia,SC. · #5 09/22/06, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agmantoo

Diane, I think those are just sheet metal screws. Often when used to hold thin metal together the screw will be screwed in so far that the thread up near the head gets stripped and the screw will neither tighten nor loosen. The trick to get the screw out is to turn the screw CCW while holding a knife blade between the screw head and the sheetmetal. This prying action will often cause the thread to get a bite and thus enable you to remove it.

That is better advise given than I gave, I was thinking heavy metal and not stove pipe. Great call AG!

**Ross** · #6 09/23/06, 01:57 AM

You wouldn't be the first to cut off a stuborn screw and then simply run in new screws with a drill/driver. (or put in a small pilot hole with a drill and turn in the screws by hand) 3 equally spaced screws around the pipe.

Pony · #7 09/23/06, 07:03 AM

Diane, I am so sorry to hear about your loss.

As for the screws, my first step would be (as others have suggested) penetrating oil. While WD40 is good for just about anything, I have had better success with Gibbs or PB Blaster. I start with PB, and if that doesn't work, out comes the Gibbs!

Spray the stubborn screws, wait a while... Try them. If they don't come out and you're not in a hurry, give 'em another shot and wait a day or so, then try again.

If you don't have the time or don't care to wait, Ross' idea of drill and fill is quick, easy, and effective.

All the best to you,
Pony!

diane · #8 09/23/06, 01:32 PM

Thank you all for taking the time to answer. They are slotted screws but have funny heads on them that I am not familiar with. The head is like maybe you could grab on to it with a wrench or pliers, but not out enough to really get a grip. Perhaps they are sheet metal screws. I will go through the various suggestions and try them all and if all else fails........cut the little puppies off.

Gideon · #9 09/24/06, 07:52 PM

Sorry for your troubles and I like PB Blaster for breaking rusty pieces. When you replace them you may want to go with brass screws to prevent this in the future. Careful not to overtighten them as the metal is softer than steel. Working on sheet metal is difficult because you cannot beat on it w/o bending the thin pipes. When the pipes need replacing put in a "T" at the bottom. That way you can open it occasionally and catch lots of soot. I like using AC/heater pipes for stove pipes. Although they are coated with Cadmium if you do not get them red hot it should be OK. Have used them for many years and have no trouble(can't see but other than that

). They last many years longer than regular stove pipe. If you are close to Central NC/SC I can probably help. Have a chimney brush with several designs of ends. wc

Bearfootfarm · #10 09/25/06, 07:31 AM

Replace them with hex head or square head screws. Slotted screws are notorious for being hard to work with.

diane · #11 09/25/06, 05:06 PM

Well, the WD40 that I had on hand dissolved the creosole that was locking them up......no rust present. I put in different screws that are a little easier to work with and the outside chimney is now good and clean so I just need to take the inside apart and get it cleaned out. This homesteading alone is certainly not for sissys. I thought just getting old was bad enough!!! Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Gideon · #12 09/25/06, 06:03 PM

Congrats on your accomplishment-here is a round of applause(******). Glad it is working for you. Ace Hardware has a promo on spray lub for about a $ per can-quite a bargain. Am going back for more. wc