Need Advice on Timberloks for Log Cabin

[Rick]

Hello

We are harvesting 8 inch poplar logs for a vertical log cabin. These logs are to be milled 1 inch on each side resulting in a 6 inch wide log. We plan on using timberloks to hold the logs together.

I am thinking the timberloks can be 8 inches long- counter-sunk 2 inches into the first log (with 4 inches into this log), and 4 inches into the second,

What do you think?

Rick

[Blu3duk]

If what i read is correct you will be using green type material? if so shrinkage and srews dont mix well, even dry timbers will shrink and leave gaps in your wall logs....

that said a fella built a vertical wall log house near Whitebird Idaho years ago and threaded a cable thru the top and bottom about a foot up, it is a round type house... cables are tightened at the door jamb but its still loose to a certain extent and allows for humidity expansion and contrction without falling apart.

Ive not done any log panels, but ive seen pictures of folks who have, and they seem to look solid but i cant say for sure what they used to hold them together, nor do i know the moisture content of the logs when they put the wall logs together, but they are not chinked so those may have been done using a screw/lag bolt of some type like you are wanting......

I like the vertical styling in that it is faster to put up than a full scribed log house, in that it wont shrink down and doors and windows do not have to be compensated for the unknown shrinkage factor as much, plus they do have a nice look to the vertical lines, makes people wonder if you like working outside the box.

William

[Rick]

Greetings William

It will be a mix- but mostly green logs. Do you think spikes would hold better than "screws"?

The timberloks would be installed a couple of feet from the bottom plate, with a nail through each log into the bottom plate also. There would also be a nail into each log's top, through the top plate.

We expect to do a lot of chinking.

I like the idea of the cable through the logs!

Thanks,

Rick

[Blu3duk]

green logs shrink, and would expect that popular will shrink quit a bit when green going towards a 12% or less moisture content..... putting metal of anykind into the wood will keep the logs apart as the shrinkage occurs....

A person could use through bolt/ or threaded rod on the panels and keep tightened them this year and put them up next year when the shrinkage has subsided [providing the panels were covered and allowed to dry in a controlled environment like a green house/hoophouse/ heated shop]

Is it possible to cut your trees and leave the limbs and leaves attached? doing so during hot weather for a week or more while the leaves dry out will reduce the moisture content from slightly to greatly depending upon the heat, and the amount of moisture present [we dropped a birch one spring before it leafed out and as it leafed out it dried the birch to the point of we could pick it up and throw it around like it was dried in a kiln] or if you could cut to near length, and peel the logs, and sticker them for a few months it would also reduce the moisture content [stickering is layer the logs in a pile using a 2x4 "sticker" for air space] and maybe place a black plastic cover over the logs and put a small fan [could be a small 12 volt run on battery and solar panel] in to remove the humidity for a couple weeks to a month... dont have to moe a large volume of air, just enough to keep the humidity moving out of the chamber. I wouldnt 2 side them either until they are dry to avoid "propeller twist" or "rocking chair runners" from happening as much either.... wood tends to do funny things when you relaese the "timber bind" particularly when its green.

ANyhow screws hold better than spikes, but both will make the shrinkage visible as the log dries and opens the crack between each piece.... more chinking to apply.

hope i have been a help and I am willing to answer more questions too.

William

[Rick]

Thanks for the information, William.

I guess we should not put up our log walls until we have all of the logs cut. That way we can use the driest ones while the freshest ones dry.

We have been letting the leaves dry the trunks since we noticed the green leaves thriving, on trees that hd been felled.

Be well......

[Highground]

Hi Rick, we have plans to build vertical also. And also in WV., Randolph Co.

I plan to use "LogHog" screws. No predrilling and they are self countersinking.
www.olyfast.com
I'll probably use 10" Loghogs.
Right now we plan to use 6x8 Hemlock timbers and cover the outside seams with batten till most of the shrinkage is complete, then we will chink. I also plan to put a bead of chinking between the timbers as they are screwed together. With wrap-around porches I think this design will hold up for many years to come.
I have looked at a lot of vertical log buildings in northern Michigan and find shrinkage not to be a major problem. Not saying it won't shrink, only no settling problems like they have with horizontal log buildings.

I think it was "HOOP" in Wisconsin, if memory is correct, that built a couple vertical buildings and had a link on here. Beautiful buildings.

Good luck on your cabin.

[Rick]

Hi Highground

We are almost neighbors!

Thanks for the thoughts. Yes it is hoop who has some nice looking vertical log buildings!

Be Well..........