Quantcast
Waterproofing with atlas cement, lime and salt - Homesteading Today
Homesteading Today

Come enter the Lehman's Aladdin Lamp Giveaway!

Go Back   Homesteading Today > Country Living Forums > Shop Talk

Shop Talk Get your mechanical questions answered here!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
  #1  
Old 06/15/06, 01:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
Waterproofing with atlas cement, lime and salt

Does anyone know the proportions of Atlas cement, lime and, I think, table salt for waterproofing a basement? I heard it years ago but don't remember it.
Thanks.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06/15/06, 02:09 PM
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Zone 7
Posts: 10,179

I posted this and now it doesn't appear so I am posting it again. I apologize if it duplicates.
The best method that I have seen to waterproof a basement is as follows.
Treat the walls with the black roll on asaphalt products sold by lowe's and others then apply the rubber membrane material sold for flat roofs and seal all the joints. Carry the rubber from slightly above ground level to below basement floor slab. Place below the basement floor level a perforated drain line in washed stone on both the inside and the outside of the basement walls and gravity flow the drain lines to a point of natural run off. This may seem overkill but if you ever had a wet basement you can appreciate the results and you will forget about the additional expense in the above.
__________________

__________________

Agmantoo
If they can do it,
you know you can!

Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06/15/06, 05:00 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Alabama
Posts: 617
water proofing

I has been 16 years since I did the outside of my block house, but I think that I used equal parts of cement and lime which was about a half a sack of each and about a half box of plain salt. Not clear why plain salt, but was told to. I mixed it with water and brushed it on. It was like a very thick paint. Seems like I would have to add water to the mixture ocassionaly. I also wet down my wall some before brushing it on to keep it from drying out too fast and where it would bond better. Hope this will be of some help.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06/21/06, 10:48 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al. Countryboy
I has been 16 years since I did the outside of my block house, but I think that I used equal parts of cement and lime which was about a half a sack of each and about a half box of plain salt. Not clear why plain salt, but was told to. I mixed it with water and brushed it on. It was like a very thick paint. Seems like I would have to add water to the mixture ocassionaly. I also wet down my wall some before brushing it on to keep it from drying out too fast and where it would bond better. Hope this will be of some help.
O.K. So, how did it work? Would you use that method again>
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06/22/06, 01:14 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,069
Quote:
Originally Posted by agmantoo
I posted this and now it doesn't appear so I am posting it again. I apologize if it duplicates.
The best method that I have seen to waterproof a basement is as follows.
Treat the walls with the black roll on asaphalt products sold by lowe's and others then apply the rubber membrane material sold for flat roofs and seal all the joints. Carry the rubber from slightly above ground level to below basement floor slab. Place below the basement floor level a perforated drain line in washed stone on both the inside and the outside of the basement walls and gravity flow the drain lines to a point of natural run off. This may seem overkill but if you ever had a wet basement you can appreciate the results and you will forget about the additional expense in the above.
__________________
Well, Ive posted this and I will do so again. Rubber roofing (EPDM) in not compatable with petroleum products. If you wipe a piece of it down with mineral spirits, it will outgas the elasticizers and become brittle. So if you are going to spend a significant amount of money to apply a membrane waterproofing barrier, why use a product, roofing tar, that will destroy it? There are proper adhesives for this application, and several alternatives that are cheaper and/or more effective. If you want a membrane, get a bid to have an elastomeric film professionally applied. If you want something that's dramatically cheaper and 100% effective, use Thoro-seal.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06/22/06, 01:50 PM
Rockin'B's Avatar  
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: No. Illinois
Posts: 1,447

Can thoroseal be used on interior walls of wet basements? I have a situation that I need to remediate.

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06/22/06, 08:52 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,069
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockin'B
Can thoroseal be used on interior walls of wet basements? I have a situation that I need to remediate.
Absolutely, you mix the dry thoroseal powder with water and their bonding agent, which is a liquid called Acryl 60. It is applied with a whitewash brush. The stuff is amazing. It can be used on concrete water tanks and swimming pools, so a basement wall is no big deal. I have used it on dozens of basements and never had a problem. Their website is thoroproducts.com Good luck.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06/23/06, 07:51 AM
Cabin Fever's Avatar
NRA LifeMember since 1976
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Between Crosslake and Emily Minnesota
Posts: 13,423

If you do a proper job of installing draintile, like Agmantoo has described, there is really no reason to put a waterproofing material on the basement's concrete block. In other words, the block will never get saturated. An alternative to "daylighting" the draintile (ie, perforated PVC pipe) is to have it run to a sump in a corner of the basement.

IMHO, there is no "magic material" that you can "paint" on the inside, or outside, of concrete block that will effectively, and permanently, seal out water when the basement is below the watertable.

__________________
This is the government the Founding Fathers warned us about.....
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06/23/06, 08:57 AM
Rockin'B's Avatar  
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: No. Illinois
Posts: 1,447

My home sits on a slight slope and the basement gets wet when unseasonaly heavy rains over a period of days occurs.

My plan is to put a 4 foot deep french drain in a horseshoe shape around the upper part of the home with each end of the horseshoe ending in a bigger pit on the lower side of the home.

I would still like to coat the inside wall that faces the upper part of the slope as added insurance.

Make sense? Thoughts?

Thanks!

__________________
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06/23/06, 10:21 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,069
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabin Fever
IMHO, there is no "magic material" that you can "paint" on the inside, or outside, of concrete block that will effectively, and permanently, seal out water when the basement is below the watertable.
Well, lets see. There is Thoroseal, UGL Drylock and several other cement based coatings that will do exactly what you claim cannot be done. They will appear to be damp and water absorbent when wetted, but will not allow the passage of water molecules. They will last the life of the structure, have been used sucessfully for decades, and have been proven in applications from basements to bridge maintenance. They are low cost and require little skill to apply. The only significant disadvantages are that they cannot be applied in low temperatures and they will not bridge cracks that develop after application. On thing many people don't realize is that asphault based foundation coatings are nearly worthless for basements. If you dig up a basement that was coated a decade or so previously, in many cases you will notice that the coating is only a faint black stain on the wall. This is because soil microbes actually consume the sealer and slowly make it disappear. Another bogus trend I see in this area is the use of clear silicone sealers for below grade use. I spoke to an engineer from a product supplier about this method. He was very clear that it will not work as it needs to be reapplied on a regular basis.
__________________
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:06 AM.