Ultimate framing hammer?

[Joel_BC]

This is a fascinating video from a guy who is designing what he feels will be the ultimate framing hammer. (The lead graphic from the embedded Youtube vid simply shows four of his favorite hammers, from each of which he's taken one or more design features - but his idea adds new features, too.) It's worth watching, and I'd love to read comments from guys here who watch...

YouTube

Whaddya think?

[Lilith]

My background in swinging a hammer is that I've been doing it for 20+ years to put food on the table. I took over my Dad's construction company once at the age of 14. He was injured on the job, and I took over management of his crews for 18 months, it was either that, or we lost everything. After he healed up, I went back to my apprenticeship. I once again took over his company three years ago so he could retire. I am no stranger to swinging a hammer.
I would never buy this hammer. When held and swung properly, a hammer does not need to hit hard or have a weight forward design to be effective. The hammer should never rely on the wrist. It is supposed to be swung from the elbow using the muscle of the forearm to propel it. A weight forward design or using the wrist to propel the hammer risks injury to the delicate joint between your forearm and hand. The stud straitening idea is kinda cool as I hate having to fetch a stud straightener. Whoever came up with the idea of starting nails with a magnetized head is an idiot. 90% of my work comp claims have been from rookies using these types of hammers and putting a nail through their hand. The best way I found to stop the use of this "feature" is to play the "milkshake game" whoever drops the most nails by lunch buys the entire crew milkshakes. The savings in labor to retrieve the nails or cover the loss of nails buys the crew lunch at least once a week. There is nothing worse than having one of my trucks go to the tire shop over a nail lost on my own job! The claw on this hammer is just like any other hammer on my job, it is a counter weight for the head of a hammer. Any Framer worth his salt that has to pull nails uses a cat's paw and or a bar so they don't bend, warp, or splinter their hammer handles. Because of the weight of a solid steel hammer, and the fatigue of swinging one all day, we all use wood handle hammers that fit our hands and grip. Some of my guys like a 16 oz hammer, I prefer a 12oz hammer so I don't get tired. The wood forms to my hand and after a few jobs, it fits like a glove. Steel handles will never do this. I don't worry about wearing a wood handle out because in winter (when I can't build due to snow) I let the head of the hammer soak in linseed oil for a few days. The head stays tight and rust free and the rest of the handle soaks up whatever oils it needs to condition it's self. My Dad has used the same finish and framing hammer for over 30 years with a wood handle. The part of the handle that comes out for extra leverage pulling a nail looks like a real bad pinch point and it is just asking to create blood blisters. IMO, this hammer looks cool, and would be good for a homestead workbench, but it would never survive on a busy work site.

[logbuilder]

First, I'm no professional framer and do not make my living from it.

That said, I am almost 60 and my favorite hammer is one that my dad used 50 years ago. Not too heavy, wood handle.

These days though when I need to drive many nails longer than 2 inches, I get my air framing nailer.

Actually, I seldom use a hammer for any serious repetitive work. But I'm generally a shop woodworker so framing is not a normal task.

[Joel_BC]

"When held and swung properly, a hammer does not need to hit hard or have a weight forward design to be effective. The hammer should never rely on the wrist. It is supposed to be swung from the elbow using the muscle of the forearm to propel it. A weight forward design or using the wrist to propel the hammer risks injury to the delicate joint between your forearm and hand."

This sounds logical enough when you say it, but online I've found there are some people who swear by the weight-forward hammer design. They're convinced it's good (for them). Generally, these guys say they feel less tired at the end of the work day, and that they have fewer problems with forearm aches & pains. So...?

I myself have not tried one yet for anything like a few hours (meaning I have not yet bought one).

[wy_white_wolf]

That folding handle looks like a nice pinch point to crab some skin. Bet that would really hurt if it happened with a heavy swing. I've also pretty much replaced my framing hammer with the nail gun. Had both rotator cups operated on so swing a hammer isn't a good idea.

WWW

[fishhead]

A 12 oz framing hammer?

I don't have that much experience framing but it would take me 20 hits to drive a 16d nail with a hammer that light. My technique must be really bad.

We had a framing crew on one job that I was on and they could drive 16d with 2 strikes. That was before nail guns became the norm.

[Lilith]

Fishhead, you have touched on something odd - something many people miss. Yes, a 12oz framing hammer is very light. No, I can't drive a 16p nail with two swings. It takes me 4 or 5. This is also why I personally own 3 pneumatic framing nailers in addition to my other assortment of nail guns. I don't swing a hammer near as much today as I did 15 years ago. Anytime I need to grab a hammer for framing, the job requires precision so a large hammer would only cause me to make a disaster of things anyways.

[wharton]

I spent many years framing and deck building. I learned that any one of them, built Estwing style, with a solid steel shank, will eventually trash your elbow. I've had good luck with the wooden handled ones that have a hatchet style handle, and the Stanley composite shaft models that are shock resistant.

[Joel_BC]

Originally Posted by wharton

I spent many years framing and deck building. I learned that any one of them, built Estwing style, with a solid steel shank, will eventually trash your elbow. I've had good luck with the wooden handled ones that have a hatchet style handle, and the Stanley composite shaft models that are shock resistant.

I've got two that I find myself using - one wood handled, one steel shank with a good textured rubber shock-reducing handle. I'm not even sure anymore why I sometimes pick one to use, and not the other... seems I do it without conscious thinking.

But I like to leave my mind open about new products - especially if they're not outrageously priced. This guy's put a lot of thought into the design he'd like to see produced (or see other designer/engineers work further on). If the hammer goes into production, I'd probably like to try it.

[simi-steading]

I got one of these.. there isn't nothing I can't destroy worse than what I started with...

Seriously.. I love this thing.. it's a great demolition tool, and when putting in new joists, it came in real handy for tweaking them straight..

[mrs whodunit]

IMO that hammer wouldn't hold up to real life work.

[simi-steading]

It's a demolition hammer.. not a framing... and it's been holding up real well.. it's torn out three floors and a lot of walls.. Can't even guess how many nails it's pulled and how many beams joists and pieces of plywood it's knocked into place..

[RonM]

I have several framing hammers, I prefer a 20 oz.Estwing or 20oz. Fiberglass, also use a Bostitch nail gun, for trim I use a 16 oz.Plumb wooden handle, had it for years. I didn't see any future in that new design either....

[MushCreek]

I have the Estwing hammer that he pretty closely copied. It works pretty well overall, but I generally reach for one of my nail guns if I'm driving more than a few nails.