
03/21/08, 10:55 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,064
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JJ Grandits
Absolutely you got it WRONG. Under no circumstances what so ever should drams be used for reloading data. That is absolutely totally incorrect, and would result in an exploded gun. The dram is an old standard the goes back to 19th century black powder shooting. If you look closely at the box it actually states "dram equivalent". That means the amount of modern gunpowder inside is the equivalent of that many drams of BLACK POWDER.
Modern smokeless powder is much, much more powerful than black powder. If you tried to load 3 drams (that's 82 grains) you'll blow up the gun, assuming you can even get that much smokeless powder in the shell. Most powders only need 15-20 grains of modern powder to be that equivalent of power level.
I've never bothered buying powder via the mail because of the 20$ hazmat fee. My local gunshop sells powder for about 20$/lb, so I'd have to buy a very large quantity of powder before I'd break even. The single most expensive item is going to be the lead shot, because of the shipping cost. At today's prices, let's say you'll use about 5.7cents of powder, 3.0 cents of primer, and 10.0 cents of shot for each complete shell. Your variable cost for 350 shells would be 65.50$, or 4.67$/box. Add in the cost of a shotshell reloader, say 100$, and the total cost to make your first 350 shells would be 165.50, or 11.82$/box.
By the time you got around to finally loading your 350th shell, you'd know by then whether you love it or hate it. My advice would be to first link up with a friend that reloads, and ask him to show you how to get started. You'll have the advantage of learning from someone who knows what they're doing, and has the background literature on reloading to do it safely. If you have a good time during your first reloading session, I'd say go for it. If it seems like too much work for you, then it's best to stick with store-bought!
Michael
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