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  #1  
Old 04/22/08, 02:42 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Help, mole in my garden.

Checking to see if any of my corn is coming up yet and I find a brutal discovery. Apparently a mole has made his way down 3 of my corn rows and is eating the sprouted seeds.

How do I stop him?
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  #2  
Old 04/22/08, 05:22 PM
Callieslamb's Avatar  
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Location: SW Michigan
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usually you are supposed to get rid of the insects in the garden to get rid of the moles. I didn't know they would eat the plants!!!
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  #3  
Old 04/22/08, 07:52 PM
Sugarstone Farm
 
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My uncle used to sit in the yard on a lawn chair, beer in one hand, shovel in the other, and WAIT. I'm sure you can imagine the rest, he got many that way. I guess he had lots of time.
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  #4  
Old 04/22/08, 09:15 PM
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Get a cat. Cats like moles as much as or more than mice.
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  #5  
Old 04/22/08, 09:43 PM
Danaus29's Avatar  
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ohio
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Moles eat insects. Voles and mice eat plants. If you have a small enough crop you can try burying hardware cloth and planting corn over that. Use the small 1/4" hole stuff.
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  #6  
Old 04/22/08, 09:51 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
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I've got a great mouser, but apparently he aint much of moler. At least twice a week our cat comes dragging a big old field rat to the house. I've also got a little rat terrior, but since he's just a small pup he can't set still in one place long enough to smell anything. He pounces everywhere 90 mph.

Well I happen to have a bag of Ortho insect killer and I looked on the directions to see if it can be used in a garden and it said it could. So I got out there this evening and spread it all down my corn rows. Now if would just rain tonight so it can dilute down into the soil then maybe that will run the mole off.

Yes moles do eat young roots and seeds. Last early fall I had planted some empty celery stalks into the ground nearby my back porch. They were growing and looking really good when all of a sudden a mole tunnel appeared right into them. After that they wilted and died. I dug them up and there wasn't a root anywhere on them. Darn little fury creature must have ate every root there was on them.
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  #7  
Old 04/23/08, 12:09 AM
Banned
 
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I'll repeat what Danaus said. Moles DO NOT eat plant roots. Moles eat insects such as grubs and worms. And, moles seldom use the same tunnel twice since they've already taken care of any food that would have been there. However, voles are very opportunistic and readily move into mole tunnels and take advantage of the roots which may have been exposed during the burrowing.

Martin
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  #8  
Old 04/23/08, 01:42 PM
EDDIE BUCK's Avatar  
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Eastern N.C.
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I agree about them moles not eating the plants or roots but if that rascal is going to tunnel under the row of corn or beans, he might as well eatum cause they gonna die. If you have a cat, go out to the garden right after a shower of rain when moles are most active. Try to keep the cat close by and sit and watch for a mole to start tunneling. Once you see the dirt moving, pick up the cat and quietly go and step on the tunnel about 2 feet behind where he's tunneling. With the toe of your shoe kick the mole out and put the cat down making sure he sees the mole. Its goodbye Mr Mole and to many of his ancestors and younguns. The next time the cat will do the watching an pouncing. P.S If the cat runs away from the mole then, the mole moves down to #2 spot on your list of things you need to get rid of. LOL Eddie
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  #9  
Old 04/23/08, 09:04 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,443
Well now, you people might just be right. I never really knew what a vole was till just a minute ago when I looked the animal up. It's what we call a field mice/rat. And yes we have a bunch of them around here cause that's what my cat has been dragging up 2 or 3 times a week. In fact ever since we had the ice storm, year ago last January, their population has risen dramatically due to all the brush laying everywhere. But I never gave it a thought that they would travel underground in a mole tunnel and eat my seeds, etc.

Now I got to figure out how I am going to get rid of "Voles"!
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  #10  
Old 04/23/08, 09:10 PM
Danaus29's Avatar  
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 19,189
BIG snake, one that's very hungry. I had a problem with voles until a huge snake moved into my brushpile. There's people in the poultry forum that would love to send you their snakes.
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  #11  
Old 04/24/08, 07:40 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,223
In our area, voles are different from field mice/rats. I saw my first vole about 3 years ago, and I'm OLD! He , or she, was dark, short tail, large-smaller than a rat, bigger than a mouse, and burrowed like a mole. I actually didnt know what it was first time I saw it.
Castor oil is supposed to deter moles.
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  #12  
Old 04/24/08, 08:44 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 280
Get rid of varmint food source.

Get a predator like a cat or dog.

Or use granulated fox urine if you can still buy it at gardening stores.
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  #13  
Old 04/24/08, 09:08 AM
EDDIE BUCK's Avatar  
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Eastern N.C.
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Quickest ID for a vole is his tale looks to short for the size of the varmint. I once had them in a strawberrie bed mulched with wheat straw. I replaced the wheat straw with pine needles and the voles left. Only thing I could come up with was pine needles are sharp pointed and maybe them voles didn't like those points sticking in their skin. Anyway whatever the reason, they left. And good riddance. Eddie
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  #14  
Old 04/24/08, 02:23 PM
AnnieOakley's Avatar
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BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor and to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue.

BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust.

BEE BALM (Oswego): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor.

BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. Deters tomato worms.

CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil.

CATNIP: Deters flea beetles.

CAMOMILE: Improves flavor of cabbages and onions.

CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavor.

CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots.

DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots.

FENNEL: Most plants dislike it. Plant to itself.

FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes.

GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids.

GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.

HORSERADISH: Plant in potato patch to keep away potato bugs.

HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths. Do not plant near radishes.

KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables.

LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture.

LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants.

MARIGOLDS (Calendula): The workhorse of pest deterrents. Keeps soil free of nematodes; discourages many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden.

MARJORAM: Improves flavor of all vegetables.

MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes.

MOLE PLANTS: Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the garden.

NASTURTIUMS: Plant with tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters aphids and pests of curcurbit family.

PARSLEY: Plant and sprinkle on tomatoes, and asparagus.

PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths.

PETUNIAS: Remember mom or grandma planting these? She had good reason, even though she may have only planted them for tradition's sake. They repel the asparagus beetle, tomato worm and general garden pests. Also, a good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere.

PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stirfrys. Pickle the green seed pod for capers.

ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies.

RUE: Deters Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries.

SAGE: Companion plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers.

SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden.

SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths.

TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and ants.

TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one.

THYME: Deters cabbage worms.

VALERIAN: Good anywhere in the garden, as a powder.

WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border.
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  #15  
Old 04/24/08, 10:44 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,443
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnieOakley View Post
BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor and to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue.

BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust.

BEE BALM (Oswego): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor.

BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. Deters tomato worms.

CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil.

CATNIP: Deters flea beetles.

CAMOMILE: Improves flavor of cabbages and onions.

CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavor.

CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots.

DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots.

FENNEL: Most plants dislike it. Plant to itself.

FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes.

GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids.

GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.

HORSERADISH: Plant in potato patch to keep away potato bugs.

HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths. Do not plant near radishes.

KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables.

LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture.

LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants.

MARIGOLDS (Calendula): The workhorse of pest deterrents. Keeps soil free of nematodes; discourages many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden.

MARJORAM: Improves flavor of all vegetables.

MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes.

MOLE PLANTS: Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the garden.

NASTURTIUMS: Plant with tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters aphids and pests of curcurbit family.

PARSLEY: Plant and sprinkle on tomatoes, and asparagus.

PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths.

PETUNIAS: Remember mom or grandma planting these? She had good reason, even though she may have only planted them for tradition's sake. They repel the asparagus beetle, tomato worm and general garden pests. Also, a good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere.

PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stirfrys. Pickle the green seed pod for capers.

ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies.

RUE: Deters Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries.

SAGE: Companion plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers.

SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden.

SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths.

TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and ants.

TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one.

THYME: Deters cabbage worms.

VALERIAN: Good anywhere in the garden, as a powder.

WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border.

Whoa now! It's just a little rat problem!
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  #16  
Old 04/25/08, 09:15 PM
Danaus29's Avatar  
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 19,189
Even castor beans don't work well against voles and mice, unless it takes a couple years of growing them before you see results.
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  #17  
Old 05/18/08, 09:25 AM
MELOC's Avatar
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Location: Pennsylvania
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i always thought you took the castor beans and dropped them in the tunnels.
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  #18  
Old 05/18/08, 11:28 AM
fretti's Avatar  
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 491
Ferret poop. Seriously.

When I moved here 3 years ago, there was a mole/vole/whatever problem with critters coming up through the ground into my yard. I put the soiled wood pellets/shavings from the ferret litter pans onto the yard and down the holes.

I've had not a single burrowing critter problem since that time.

Here is a listing of ferret shelters that may be willing to give you the litter.

And since internal parasites are extremely, extremely rare in ferrets (in my 20 years of ferret ownership, I've never heard of a confirmed case), the litter can safely be put on veggie crops.
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  #19  
Old 05/18/08, 12:44 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NC foothills
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I too suffer from voles. I am going to try some mousetraps now that I have the garden fenced off from doggie noses (as satisfying as it would be to here the yelp of snout in trap) I am not sure waht I am going to bait it with.. I figure peanut butter and bread to start. Or a chunk of fresh tomato... My voles leave little openings up to the surface and I will put them near the holes. I will let you know how it goes.
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  #20  
Old 05/18/08, 10:36 PM
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Location: Ohio
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The castor bean seed pods might work. They are prickly and as poisonous as the rest of the plant.
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