You envision correctly.....you will need a transfer switch.
You'll want a manual version, like I have, since you want to control the "switch over", whereas an automatic version is designed to only transfer when the grid goes down. Also ( and the reason I chose this version ), they are a LOT cheaper.
You'll need one like this:
I take it you don't have grid power now, so I don't know you distribute/use AC power now. I already was grid power based, then added the solar. My 200amp main panel is the white one on the left. I added the 100amp subpanel in the center, and moved the circuits I wanted to run off solar into them ( lights/fridge/gate opener/etc ). With the transfer switch arm in the upper position, as shown, those circuits run off the grid....when thrown to the down position, they run off solar/battery.
That's a Cutler Hammer transfer switch, it ran about 600 bucks.
Also, when you said: "but I read somewhere I would need a higher voltage system on my end to make true grid-tie work."
I had to put in a
pair of Outback inverters, 24v, 2500watt, (GTFX2524) to put out true 240v AC ( master/slave setup, controlled by an Outback Hub/Mate you'd also have to buy ) because my utility would not accept 120v AC input....they would have had to buy a special meter to handle it.....they did that on the first grid tie system in our utility, then said "no more.....all future connects must be 2 wire, 240v"