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Cattle For Those Who Like To Have A Cow.

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Old 07/23/16, 04:57 PM
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: South Ky Zone 7
Posts: 394
Originally Posted by ozarko View Post
What would be the best way to setup my electric fencing on my new, small 11 acre farm? I have about 9 or 10 acres of pasture.

If you look at the picture I've posted you can see the existing perimeter fencing outlined in black, well house in blue and gates in orange. I have one pond (which leaks), but could run pipe and hose from the well house out to any paddocks. I'm imagining I could run around 4 or 5 cows on this? It's mostly KY 31 fescue, but there is lots of clover and other forbs underneath. It hasn't been hayed for a year and no cattle on it for 2 years. There is a gentle slope from the south to the north and east bottoming out shortly before the north fence line.

I'm trying to figure out where I should put feeder lines for the temporary fencing for the paddocks.

Here are the approximate acreage sizes of the marked areas:
A=2.25 acres
B=7 acres
C=0.06 acres
D=0.15 acres

I would appreciate any advice and if you need more information, I'd be happy to provide it.

I would draw a line inside the center fence on the B side all the way down to the gate then make a 90 degree right angle over to the woods.
Bring another line from the other side of the woods back across to the fence. make the lane about 30 ft, wide al the way down to the gate. around the woods it can be as wide as it needs to be. Put you a waterer somewhere centrally located in the lane.
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Old 10/23/16, 09:04 PM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Columbus, NC
Posts: 152

I'm not sure if you got any rain from the hurricane but we didn't, it looked like the outer bands of rain hit just 2 counties away and we have not had any fall rain at all to get some fescue growth. A few heavy dew mornings is about all the moisture we have gotten. It never fails as I drilled in $1800 worth of seed on sloped ground and over seeded other pastures have a full drill and at least another pallet of various clovers and Marshall rye. I still have quite a bit of stockpiled grass warm and cool season. I feel sure the warm season stuff is not of great quality at this point. I also purchased fertilized round bales for $25 a bale and have about 300 bales on hand. Would you go ahead and keep the cattle in the rotation or save it and feed hay hoping for rain soon or some combination of both? At what or is there a point that should I give up on seeding grass and save the seed until next year? EarIy this year I was able to almost double the price I paid for the hay and sold off everything that was older than 3 years and could have actually sold it much higher and if this regional drought/flooding keep up I will be in the same position again. This year I did seed less than $200 in Sorghum Sudan grass that really did well and the cattle are still eating regrowth on it right now just waiting on a frost to pull them off and move them for a few weeks. That seemed to have several benefits of shading the grasses in the summer, adding a lot of organic matter to the soil and provide a high energy feed pretty cheap. any ideas for converting to rotational grazing? - Cattle

any ideas for converting to rotational grazing? - Cattle

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Old 11/02/16, 04:18 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 223
does anyone use a cattle delouser? what brand? Does it work?

I am actually looking for one for goats, but someone mentioned check with the cattle people as the cattle delouser is cheaper and works great!

Thank you!
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Old 11/11/16, 10:56 AM
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NC
Posts: 977
Randy any answer to your question?...i am in the same boat...super dry with a small amount of stockpile areas...the summer grsses are nothing but brown fit only for the cows to stomp down...i have started with round bales...have sent for hay analysis so i know how to supplement. cows will calve starting at the end of nov.....but of course i am not sure the hay i have is it wiser to sit on the stockpiled areas til january...feed hay now til then? And hope we get rain to at least make step in posts go in?...or just put them on the grass now??
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Old 11/11/16, 12:35 PM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Columbus, NC
Posts: 152
Not much info yet. Our extension agent told me this on planting
"It depends on if we ever get cold. They way it looks you may be ok to seed late into November. If it rains you will get germination but it may not put on much top growth until spring unless it stays warm into winter."

As far as the warm season grasses and the quality, I'm watching their manure and I seem to still have a decent balance in energy and protein (without supplementing them) from what fescue is mixed in. Not loose from excess protein and not stacking up either. In the stockpiled areas where I stopped grazing at this summer due to seeded out fescue, and I started back at the beginning there is a lot more forage than appears and what I expected.

I'm just going to continue drilling in seed in hopes of rain at some point. It definitely won't grow if it's not there.
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Old 11/21/16, 04:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 49
Does anyone use non electric fence for rotational grazing for a family cow or two? Would fencing several paddocks be a viable option?
Also does anyone know how much space you need to devote to a stockpile pasture to graze through the winter? Does anyone here graze year round if so what is your winter like? What zones would make this not a viable option?
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Old 11/21/16, 05:08 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: W. Oregon
Posts: 10,055
Sure but a non electrified fence has to be a barrier for a cow. 1 tiny smooth wire is not a barrier to a cow. Barb (alone not recommended because IF they tried it can damage an udder) tall enough woven or with a barb on top or high tensile wire fence will work.

A lot depends on climate for how much pastureland it would take, even here where we can grow grass as well as anywhere, my 1 acre is not enough even though we can run 3 head to the acre, just not in the dry season (especially if grazed too close) nor the entire winter. Also cows make a muddy mess in our wet winters. This is why I have milk goats (sheep work well on pasture all winter) Also best if cows have hay along with all the green, for roughage here....James
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Old 12/06/16, 02:06 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 5
The golden rule for rotational grazing is keep grass at least three inches tall. Grazing pastures below three inches would stress the plants by reducing leaf surface grasses use to prepare food and thereby they would resort to food reserves in the root. Eventually the grass depletes its stored reserves and leaves bare spots in your pastures. Turn your animals to graze a field when grass reaches six to eight inches and move them when grasses reach 3 to 4 inches in height.
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